I agree, add at least 20 lbs to the nose, because the front is slaming up, hitting the WB and unloading the slicks. If you set the WB around 1 1/2-2" a flxable WB should more gently push the fron down. But you may discover you need to add more weight to the nose. That's all about the engine location, you could run less nose weight if you motor was out 46" +. Back in the day TF cars ran the motors out 36" BUT that was before VHT, and they smoked the tires, ie before slipper clutches. The trick JrFuel cars are running 48-52" out now in order to keep the tires spinning some, so they don't dead-hook and puul the motor down below your HP rpm range.
We run our JF powerglide with a 1.68 1'st gear to hit the tires softer, plus the trans ratio is closer to the 1 to 1 of hi gear.
The other thing that has helped us on traction is we run a looser converter, [ now 8500-8700, but my next one will be 8900-9000] it hits the tires softer, and allows the engine to get up to the HP rpm.
A good goal for picking the stall is 1000-1500 below your shift point, but best is to send a dyno run to your converter guys , I highely recomment A-1, they have a lot of FED experience and customers. Again JF rules limit us to 12" wide tires, we run 33 & 31 tall tires. we have tried 33x10.5x15 MT tires too running 7+ pressure, mostly because the MT have stiffer sidewalls designed for 10.5 door cars but our best ET's have been with the Goodyear 31x12x15, at around 5 1/2 to 6 lbs.
BTW Hayden wheels are now dealers for Goodyear and M&H slicks.
I hope this helps
