Basic 355 combo

[opa1]

@retroboy, How much oil contamination do you get using that system?

[retroboy]

I get a little a little condensation so just pop off the filler caps and it evaporates off. So effectively none 

[masracingtd1167]

masracingtd1167 question about your headers  13/4" into 17/8" with merge collectors how do they compare  reg. stepped headers with a straight collector  because i wanted to try some with a 14" megaphone from the transition

    Mine are 1 7/8 to 2 inch . If you are running gasoline you might see a change ! i went back to a zoomie header and saw no change with alcohol ! 

[wideopen231]

When I said stepping back, I meant simple build. I would love to go stack injection and no cooling system. That's the way the car was running before. I don't know jack about what's needed or how to run fuel injection.

Not saying you need to change to injection first thing,but think about this. Buying carb setup and then injection means spending money twice. Injection is so simple you will wonder why they make carbs. Like other stated shop around some and you can find simple system at reasonable price. Understand you are little more limited on contacts with helpful input.Call few fuel system guys and see what you can get ,only cost a phone call.JMO

[jeff/21]

opa1 in texas there should be a lot of good fuel injections lay around the used ron's unit I bought cost almost the same as a new alky carb up here in the great white north stack and hat injectors are more pricy
 toilet is easy to install on a carb intake just drill the runner as you would for nitrous  ad the rest is straight forward

[opa1]

I bought a nice 327C8A setup today. It has 2 3/16 blades and the ports match up to my RPM heads. So it looks like I'm going injection. Now I need to find the pump and the rest of the stuff. I'll start a new thread for this part. I know I'll need some guidance.

[opa1]

Is anyone running a Enderle timing cover with a standard size sbc balancer? (not big block stout). Is there a seal that will work with the cover?

[dusterdave173]

seal for Enderle cover sbc for std sbc damper is napa number CR17678  usa  maybe $15  order from any fuel injection dealer same seal $35 or more

[opa1]

Excellent! Thanks for the info.

[PSweeney]

I have an opposing view to most...

I've run a big block altered on pump gas down into the low 8's.  My current slingshot is a low 9 injected alky small block

Alky is simple IF, the casting, throttles etc is good, the pump and nozzles are flowed/matched and you have tow vehicle at the track.  If you need it self starting, driving to the line etc and have bought untested secondhand gear, it's not for you.  There is learning curve and if you have issues you could be chasing your tail.

The pump gas route can be an awesome set up, without the cost and maintenance required with other induction set ups.  keep the CR sub 10.5-1, get an electric water pump and fan set up, and the very the best thing you can do with this set up is lock out the dizzy.  If you run it with a curve, the retarded timing at idle will put heat into the heads and build overall engine temp too high.  Lock out the dizzy, the cleaner, longer and more efficient burn, keeps the temps down for burnout and staging, just watch for alky cars doing half track burnouts to build heat...  Keep the pump and fan running on the run for even cylinder temps, and cool it in the pits between rounds with the pump and fan plugged into a slave battery.  If you're going into competition, consider a small alternator from a Kubota digger etc, the benefit of a fully charged battery for hot starting and MSD boxes see 14v outweighs the parasitic loss in my view. 

[opa1]

I have an opposing view to most...

I've run a big block altered on pump gas down into the low 8's.  My current slingshot is a low 9 injected alky small block

Alky is simple IF, the casting, throttles etc is good, the pump and nozzles are flowed/matched and you have tow vehicle at the track.  If you need it self starting, driving to the line etc and have bought untested secondhand gear, it's not for you.  There is learning curve and if you have issues you could be chasing your tail.

The pump gas route can be an awesome set up, without the cost and maintenance required with other induction set ups.  keep the CR sub 10.5-1, get an electric water pump and fan set up, and the very the best thing you can do with this set up is lock out the dizzy.  If you run it with a curve, the retarded timing at idle will put heat into the heads and build overall engine temp too high.  Lock out the dizzy, the cleaner, longer and more efficient burn, keeps the temps down for burnout and staging, just watch for alky cars doing half track burnouts to build heat...  Keep the pump and fan running on the run for even cylinder temps, and cool it in the pits between rounds with the pump and fan plugged into a slave battery.  If you're going into competition, consider a small alternator from a Kubota digger etc, the benefit of a fully charged battery for hot starting and MSD boxes see 14v outweighs the parasitic loss in my view.

I've been told this same thing by other members here. I have all the parts to run a carb on gas. I will be setting it up this way at first. Getting acquainted with the car and finding all the bugs will be all the tail chasing I need.
All my parts are here and I'll be putting it together soon.

[retroboy]

I have yet to see a FED with an acceptable appearance with a  full cooling system alt etc. Also all that gear battery etc would add considerable weight and complication. While I started the whole run your car on meth thing with you I ran a car on pump gas years ago - dry block no water but there's no way I would go back. The biggest problem going to FI is forgetting anything you know about running a carb. Bigger jet (pill) leaner not richer etc.

[opa1]

I'm still planning to run the stacks at some point. I'm running a flat tappet cam and will have to break it in before I go with injection. I don't want to chance milk down during the process. I do have a stand to run the engine for break in. It's plug and play for a carb setup.
I have all the parts for the injection except for the pump and cover/drive, some plumbing/filter. I have primary, secondary, hi speed bypass, some pills, fuel shut off.
I took the injection apart and cleaned all the parts. Set it back up to open from right to left (when sitting in car)on both sides. Everything setup nice and should work. 

[opa1]

Here's a update on the simple 355. I went with the Hilborn 327C8A, Waterman 400 pump, primary and hi-speed bypass. Leakdown was set at 19% and the idle is dead on. There's no milking and it runs good. First time out the best run was 5:63/115. I need to do a little tweaking next time out. There's more to be had from the combo.

I'm glad I went with methanol. No cooling system. Just water in block.   

Mark