Blocking and Fluids...

[SaltandPepper]

Tomorrow I plan to block this thing up in my shop. I intent to block it about 24" off the floor to allow plenty of inspection and work room underneath. When I picked it up the fella had it blocked up in the rear and the front about an inch off the floor. An inch or 24" makes no difference but should I add a block in the middle to prevent chassis flex.....or is this not really necessary? Since I do not know when the fluids were last changed I figured that would be a good place to start. Draining the engine oil and rear oil will allow me to inspect for metal flakes and evaluate. I assume that I am going to replace the fluids with 20w50 and the rear with 80w90. I don't suspect I am going to find the quality oil I need at the Walmart so I would like to ask what brand fluids you all prefer. Also, I know that it has Strange axles and am assuming the entire rear end is Strange but I have no idea what volume of oil to put back into the rear. I can measure the amount I drain out but who knows if it was correct to begin with. Thanks.....John

[SaltandPepper]

Well, since I got no response to these questions I assume that there is such a wide variety of opinions that the answers are too complex or that the questions are too simplistic to warrant a reply. In any case, I blocked it up on both ends and have decided to go with Royal Purple for the fluids. I don't mean to ask such a basic question but if I were changing the oils in my 76 vette I would just look up factory specs, with this machine it is not so simple. Since my vette takes about 2 quarts in the rear I will use that for a baseline but still measure out the old volume. I have built a few hotrods for the street but never dealt with a auto engine that operated at the higher RPMs. It would have just been nice to know what brands of oils some of you prefer....thanks anyway.

[dusterdave173]

I use synthetic in the rear--Valvoline from NAPA or Walmart  cuts down on heat in the rear over conventional

If you run alky that is one thing but if you run gas well--any old oil is fine  You would normally go with a weight that works with your bearing clearance but since you don't know well then anything from a 10Wx30 to a 20wx50 will do great  Use a quality filter like Wix racing from Napa or K&N etc something with HD can

Trans --use a type F fluid from NAPA ( should be Valvoline) do Not over fill and away you go

Hope this helps
Royal Purple I am sure is fine stuff but you will be spending way more than needed IMO

[denverflatheader]

John – reaction times vary just like on the starting line.  Sometimes answers on this forum aren’t provided for days and days, and on occasion no answer is provided : )  Raising your chassis and supporting only front and rear is fine to work on in your shop.  However, when transporting your chassis in trailer, for those times you want to add middle support to specifically answer your question.  Depending on your chassis design, for me I place about 8” length support right under both lower chassis tubes directly in front of the engine.  It prevents your chassis from unneeded flexing movement and doing potential chassis damage during transporting. 

All I would add for your first time fluid examination, check the levels first to see where they are, and verify level meets design specifications.  You may have to contact Strange, and let them know what you have, as race vehicle differential housings do vary.  Then after you drain and check for condition, if for example the Strange rear oil checks out okay, myself, I would reinstall.  For engine oil, since you’re running gas, I agree with what Dusterdave wrote.  For me, more important is checking for fluid leaks to address, leaks are a nuisance and cause trouble.  Alan

[dusterdave173]

Transport support is a big deal--it matters  I agree with Denverflatheader
The ideal thing is a Macs bladder but at $300 and no used ones available--many like me resort to a block of wood
I have a lite weight import car jack in the trailer--I use it to slightly raise chassis after tie down--then slip a carefully measured wood block across under both frame rails just in front of engine--I covered top of the block with some cut up Yoga mat foam ( hope the wife does not see this LOL) stapled it on and I have what has turned out to be a good answer--I am always on the lookout for one of those bladders---I did score a new set of Macs dragster rear tire straps at the last swap for just $100  They work ten times better than my single strap which were always falling off

I always keep my car suspended in the shop--you let slicks sit for extended period and guess what ? they develop flat spots that take a shaky run or three to get rid off --better to keep them up--same with fronts   I am guessing that car sat for a long time but a few burnouts should help

hey--make sure fuel system is cleaned out all the way--bring that baby up to temp--Then change the oil --run the lash and you will be set   Bet you have no cam card so set them .022 Hot and forget about them until after first outing--we check lash between each race--check hot like a real racer don't get into all that" how aluminum grows" BS
.022 will run with almost any cam on earth when in doubt

Spring is not far off--I know you are excited--that first run will be a life changer!! These cars are not like door cars --they never get boring
Start shopping for safety gear--good enclosed helmet, good gloves that fit well, Nomex type sox--get two pair--and on the suit---There are almost no tracks that check even NHRA ones at a busy race but...what if you travel a long way and they check--and...consider fire / burn protection your first concern   an SFI 15 suit cost out the ying yang--far more than a std double layer SFI 5  It defies logic but....and...a two piece would be my choice after living with a one piece a few seasons--Why? because with 2 pc you can leave pants on between runs--getting into a 1 pc every lap is a PIA man

Again  Biondo in NJ is the only place for a suit--they stock hundreds and can exchange over night if you get wrong size--all other sellers offer SFI 15 suits as Custom order--no way --call Biondo

If your car has aluminum cover over trans you can run with a std double layer suit--check the NHRA rule book---ask around other dragster guys on here  but think....It may never ever happen but if you have a fire and it is licking away at you as you try and stop that baby and get out--

And if you buy a fire system--call around--Mr. Stroud is good source of info--he hates the cold fire kind of systems as they ruin suits--make a darn mess--many knowing guys like the Halon style gasses of which there are a couple several
Study before you buy any old thing in the catalog

Un pack the chute and let it blow in the wind tied to something--it must be unpacked when not at the races or it may not work when you need it--LEARN to pack it with confidence--Practice man  Good Youtube videos from Stroud
A Stroud is easier to pack than others---Have a Simpson? Take an aspirin--a shot of Jack then start packing all that spaghetti--whatever it takes to be confident at it.  BTW pulling that baby is FUN but like all things FED you need to do it a certain way --ask on here about driving into the chute and other critical shut down tips

First few times at track will be a blurr then after a half season you get better and start learning the car--after two seasons or one busy one you will be LOTS safer for yourself and others --and it will really start to get fun---

[SaltandPepper]

Thank you so much, a lot of good info for me to start on here....I will contact Biondo for the proper safety equipment and plan to go threw everything on the machine, including the chute. The fuel system is something that does need to be addressed since the fella I bought it from did say he thought it has a leak. He suggested swapping out all the braded hot rod line with lines that were more designed to the higher octane fuels and demands of a FED. I will look into it and address in a different thread in the future if need be.