Building New 225" FED Need a little help

[nitroscott]

Hello and thank you for letting me in this cool site. I am building a 170" FED Stack Hilborn injection, trying to keep it looking like 60's JR Fuel Car. I have 10" wheels, Mark William bend kit and blueprint. I have most everything I need except font wheels and little stuff along the way. My differential turned out to be too short so now I have to build one. My housing will be somewhere around 34" and I will need 1.5" 35 axles.
I have a group on FB called "History of JR Fuel" https://www.facebook.com/groups/707306692694561/
I started this group to see if I could get some help building this FEDragster. No one seems interested in following. I have a few questions to start. 
I have to splice my shoulder hoop what size rosette holes should I use and how long should my inner piece be?
My mid motor plate is SBC Mark Williams and has a round hole in the bottom. Can I cut a slot at the bottom of the motor plate so I can get it in and out with out removing the block from the alignment bar?
I would like to keep this car looking nostalgic and I need to pick a tire out. I wanted to keep the tire from being to tall. If I used a shorter tire will I be able to keep the diff off of the lower rail and what tire do you all recommend? Thanks
Update: Car is in the process of being built.

[rooman]

Scott,
        glad to see that you are actually starting to build the car. You need to get a copy of the SFI spec before you start on the chassis. It will tell you all about the splice criteria (and lots of other things as well).
  Although you could slot the mid plate it is not a very smart idea as this is the firewall between you and the motor. In addition it is a good idea to have a contiguous piece tying the lower frame rails together. Does the MW mid plate come pre notched or is it just a drilled blank? If it is notched you should not need to be taking it in and out while building the frame--just bolt it up and run the top frame rails through the notch. If it is a blank you will need to mock up the frame to determine where the rails are going to be and then notch the mid plate and bolt it in place (after removing the block from the alignment bar). Sorry if that is too much work but it takes some effort to build one of these things.

Roo

[nitroscott]

Hey Keith, Yes I am sorry it took so long to get this FED started. I agree with you don't want to cut the mid motor plate because of strength and protection. You are right these things are a lot of work, not just off the shelf put together. I have the backhalf jig built enough and the differential set up in it, seat hoop clamped down and the shoulder hoop holder built. Now I am attaching the motor plate to the motor. I have to figure out a way to post pictures on this site, when I try it says that the pictures are too big. Is there a free software to reduce the size or a way to do that other wise. Thank you for your advice. Nice chatting again.

[ricardo1967]

I have to figure out a way to post pictures on this site, when I try it says that the pictures are too big. Is there a free software to reduce the size or a way to do that other wise.

Scott,
There are several websites that resize pictures (single or batch) for free. Just Google: online picture resizer

Options include:
http://www.picresize.com/
http://resizeimage.net/
http://imageresize.org/

Glenn's write-up: How to post pictures

Welcome to the FED forum!

[Roger]

Here's another website I use:

https://tinypng.com/

[nitroscott]

Thank you for posting those links. I appreciate it.

[ricardo1967]

Thank you for posting those links. I appreciate it.

You're most welcome Scott. We do whatever takes to get FEDs on the strip.

I have a group on FB called "History of JR Fuel" https://www.facebook.com/groups/707306692694561/

Very nice! Subscribed.

[nitroscott]

I am getting ready to put the final touches on the drive train set up before I cut the motor plate. Is this set up ok? I only have 7" under the motor.

[janjon]

Hello, Scott, hope you're OK through this storm in Houston. I'm to the Northeast side, in Porter, near Kingwood. How bout you?

[dreracecar]

If you set the motor out 39", you can use a full length PG with a direct coupler to the rear end. At 36" you will need to use a shorty glide and buy 2 extra couplers and a drive shaft and build a driveline cover.
 Engine "DUMP" has no real bearing on chassis design, Its the relationship of the rear end, distance the motor is in front of the rear and front oil pan clearence. A Mopar pinion is .500 higher than a 9" ford, so there will be more angle with a Mopar.
 Set the rear end hight with bar through the housing, install a line-bar in the 3rd member, set the block with the oil pan XX distant from the rear centerline , and set  the front oil pan clearence allowing room for a diaper so it doesnt drag when you bounce the car. Thats all there is to it
 

[nitroscott]

I am sorry to tell everyone that has helped me, that the dragster project is under 3 feet of water. Soon as the water drains I will start it back up. I was doing so well too getting all of these different factors to work together and got the hoops welded in. My motors, tranny's and chromoly are all under water. Thanks for all of the kind help.

[nitroscott]

Here are a few pictures of my place on the east side of Houston that has never flooded before.

[hotrod316]

SORRY

[masracingtd1167]

I just feel so bad for all of you down there ! I hope every thing works out for you !

[GlennLever]

The amount of rain that has fallen there is unreal. Be safe.