Building Zoomies

[fordpinto1972]

Going to build a set of zoomies for my small block ford. Bought the flanges with the 1 3/4 stubs and going to use 1 3/4, 90 degree pipe. The first leg is 3 1/2 inches and the second leg is 16 inches. Trying to figure out the lay back angle of the pipes. Does 50 degree sound right? I've been running door cars for years and this is my first FED. I've waited almost 50 years for this. I know most of you run Chevy power plants but I have this 540hp small block ford I'm going to play with. Thanks for any advise, Don

[wideopen231]

Its all in what you like. 50* is strong. I have built quite a few sets and most where in 30* area. I have done 2 sets at 40 and one at  50 looks cool IMO.Does put more exhaust back towards driver. Not normally big deal,just thought

[JrFuel Hayden]

We just aim the pipes at the top of slicks, 2 1/8 dia
Jon

[225digger]

heres a set i did awhile back, customer wanted 2" tubes but wanted the typical 1-3/4 flange,  has about 2" of stub then 6" of tube after the bend, these have a 6" clr bend 45* lay back.

[BK]

Make sure to lean them out enough so you don't need to remove them to adjust the valves.
I was just talking to someone with that problem over the weekend.

[JrFuel Hayden]

if it was me I'd make the pipes shorter, just to keep it out of my way to adjust valves, and no burned arms.  Only advantage is collectors burning gas. I've tried them all
Jon

[gregm784]

My next ones will be much shorter. I like yours.

[the shadow]

 Here is a set I fab'd up about a year and a half ago, used 1.750  mandrel u-bends from speedway with 3/8" thick flange plates. did each pipe  in 2 pieces in order to change direction & get the angle I liked then tig'd them up. my rail is 1959 so I was going for a more period look rather than a zoomie.
 here is a progression of headers on my rail, 1st pic was early 90's with long swept out weed burners, next I borrowed a set of up swept zoomies from a buddies mid 60's C/D, then I built the set I put on recently.

[ricardo1967]

Here is a set I fab'd up about a year and a half ago, used 1.750  mandrel u-bends from speedway with 3/8" thick flange plates. did each pipe  in 2 pieces in order to change direction & get the angle I liked then tig'd them up. my rail is 1959 so I was going for a more period look rather than a zoomie.
 here is a progression of headers on my rail, 1st pic was early 90's with long swept out weed burners, next I borrowed a set of up swept zoomies from a buddies mid 60's C/D, then I built the set I put on recently.

That's a real beauty!

[fordpinto1972]

To All;

I really appreciate all the comments. It will really help me out. Next I'm trying to figure out battery location. This dragster doesn't appear to have a pair of cross bars to lay the battery on. It somewhat makes sense as this was an alcohol injected small block chevy. May have to have a few crossbars welded on?

[wideopen231]

I would locate battery as far forward as possible. Odds are you will add weight to front later.Why not use what you have to have and eliminate adding if at all possible?

[the shadow]

post a pic of the dragster, I'd like to see what your building

[longm1958]

The picture of my car shows my Ford small block zoomies.

[dreracecar]

To All;

I really appreciate all the comments. It will really help me out. Next I'm trying to figure out battery location. This dragster doesn't appear to have a pair of cross bars to lay the battery on. It somewhat makes sense as this was an alcohol injected small block chevy. May have to have a few crossbars welded on?

 Without further info, why not skip the battery and just have a plug in remote and use a seperate small battery for the tranny brake? only reason I could see is if you are running a standard ign instead of a Mag. Plus you will need somebody outside the car anyway to belt you in properly

[gregm784]

I run a Milwaukee 18v battery for all my on board needs, t-brake, MSD mag, shiftlight.  Works great.