Steering rod type question

[longm1958]

I had my car in the chassis shop a while back and the shop had a small fire right next to my car. Shop owner didn't tell me about it and I didn't visit the shop for a couple of months. He used something corrosive (fire extinguisher) to douse the fire. When I went by there, needless to say I was kinda pissed because it has started damaging the chrome steering rods and chassis started rusting.
Took it home, took it apart and wire wheeled everything. I can't afford to re-chrome right now so everything just got a coat of paint to slow/stop rust.
Now to the questions. I removed the front steering. The front end has some spring inside the front tube. The right (passenger) side inside the tube must have sprung and doesn't line up with the other side and a cross steering tube now hits and locks when I turn the steering to the right. How do I correct whatever I have done? The connection has what appears to be an octaganal fitting inside the front tube. When I set it here its too high and set it there way its too low. I find a single hole directly in the bottom center I assume with an allen wrench fitting? Is this where I set this up? I know this probably won't be much help but neither am I.
HELP

Mike L in Ga

[GlennLever]

Once I had all the weight into my dragster I had problems with the arms hitting.

I adjusted the linkage arm to compensate for the additional weight.



note the small serations on the inside of the linkage arm





Does this help?

[longm1958]

Thanks Glenn, After our phone conversation I feel I know enough to address this issue. Your pics helped a bunch.

Mike L in Ga

[rooman]

Glenn,
        thanks for covering for me while I was otherwise occupied.

Roo

[hotrod316]

roo, I seen on some of the linkage arm there is a longated hole on the other end (axle side) question! why, and second does it matter watch side it on, hope you under stand my questions.
thanks for your time
 just your nut freind in ohio
 me steve m.
ps don't forget about my buckit list LOL

[rooman]

On a Don Long car there are four radius rods which determine the arc that the axle swings through as the suspension articulates, The torsion arm is a lot shorter and swings in a tighter arc so the holes where the arm attaches to the axle are slotted so that things don't get into a bind. On a regular two radius rod deal this is not necessary as the torsion arm is in effect the lower radius rod.

Roo

[LZ]

On a Don Long car there are four radius rods which determine the arc that the axle swings through as the suspension articulates, The torsion arm is a lot shorter and swings in a tighter arc so the holes where the arm attaches to the axle are slotted so that things don't get into a bind. On a regular two radius rod deal this is not necessary as the torsion arm is in effect the lower radius rod.

Roo

Thanks Roo;
I was always wondering this in the back of my mind. But I am still thinking about this though. As you describe, the slot length and location would be a critical item then. As this is holding Caster as she swings.  Even though it is a small amount and the  4 point long Radius Arms would keep the caster at set more so the a double radius arm. But the one Arm is not controlling Caster with slots.
With the Long style front end the one Radius Arm would be a safety of sorts if one failed.
I have a hard time putting thoughts to sentences, but do you get what I mean??

I seem to remember a couple dragsters but more-so Altered s with a Torsion front that had a link between axle and torsion arm and this accounted for the different swing arcs.

Mike hey we need more shots of your car, very nice.
On a side note with your front the way it is it nice you can get the tank way up there.
FED's nowadays carry so much more items on them ( then in days afar) .
Thanks
Luke

[hotrod316]

new thought,
 if the slot will let you move the axle back 1/4"of and inch, lets say, on the right side, will this move the right wheel back 1" or may be 2"  and then a stagger in the car?
will lay it out today on our car and I will let you know what I find out.
this came to me in my sleep last night
just a thought?
man I need to start drinking more mountin dew or quit thinking
steve m.

[rooman]

Luke,
       on a car with a single radius rod per side the torsion arm can't have a slot because the arm is the lower radius rod. Back in the day some cars had a small wishbone between the torsion bar tube and the axle. That provided lateral location of the axle (I guess they felt that the torsion arms were not enough) and also acted as a radius rod so in that case a slotted arm would work. Long's set up is the best engineered of all because it maintains castor and the way he puts the king pin axis, radius rod attachment and drag link/steering arm attachment all in the same plane means that the car does not tend to steer itself as the suspension droops at the launch.
 The oft posted Old Master build story is really the best way to learn how to build a front motor dragster. Some of the technology has changed (motor angle and location etc) but the basic engineering theory is still true. With a copy of that story and a set of SFI specs you can't go wrong (well, maybe some people could but they are the ones who should not be allowed out in public).

Roo

[hotrod316]

I pick up 5/8 of and inch of stagger with a 1/4" slot 

[janjon]

"The oft posted Old Master build story" Any hints where to look for this?

[GlennLever]

"The oft posted Old Master build story" Any hints where to look for this?

The link to that story can be found in the "Articles " under "Administrative Functions " in this forum in post Article with a Front Engine Master / Don Long Builds "The Old Master" AA/FD .

The link is
http://www.wediditforlove.com/techtalk18.html