What does a Glide need for My Level?

[dusterdave173]

Like it says
I have a Powerglide in the car now--bought used --freshed it up--had aftermarket input, deep pan, billet servo, trans brake, and steel clutch hub--thats about it
I do not use the brake--I have always foot brake raced and enjoy that--I am club racing only so just for show--not ever planning to bracket race so a manual valve body will be fine.
I am gathering items to build a spare Powerglide--scored a nice stock case that had bell cut, an Ultrabell that I can get re-certed if need be, a good used trans brake valve body with solonoid, another deep pan, and a nice TSI rebuilt stock style pump--all at the swap this wk end for dirt cheap--folks wanting Christmas cash so..............
I am small block Chevy, Hilborn, alky between 500-600 HP maybe a tad more later
What parts do I HAVE to have for a safe dependable Glide
I plan on doing the build myself--I am engine builder by trade so ...
Can I buy the JW book off Ebay and know what I need to know??
I have been watching videos on Youtube etc
Do I need regular band, Kevlar? etc
Write me a recipie for what I need to do this please
I have an aftermarket tailhousing in car now with roller bearing--is one with bushing OK too?
Do I need a roller bearing on pump etc???

Is it OK to just use the brake valve body while not actually using the trans brake? I just plugged the hole in back of the case on one I have now since solonoid was too close to poorly planned crossmember

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[bikeguy307]

Starting at the front working back.
If your input shaft is a turbo spline you will need a bushing in the stator support of the pump.
Sounds like you have a good pump.
6 clutches in high gear would be good 7 would be better. I use Alto Red Eagles, and kolene steels. with the thin clutches you can get 7 in the drum without machining the piston.
A dual ring servo is great low cost upgrade. And Kevlar or Red Line band is a good choice.
A 1.76 planetary will be fine for your combination seeing as you are foot breaking.
on the extension housing you will need to stay with the after market one as the yoke used with a bearing is different than one used with a bushing.
You can put a modulator plug in place of the solenoid and run it with out problem, it simply holds the brake valve in the release position.
The book from JW is a very good book with lots of good info and instruction for your project.

Good luck with your project and if you have any questions I will do my best to help you with answers.

Dan Dishon
   

[dusterdave173]

Thanks!! So...there are "thin" clutches available I can order ? I don't want to cut drum etc --hoped to use stock unit
I had ordered a tailshaft for my other trans in the car because I converted it back to stock output from a shorty so I got one with roller--I did order a MW coupler vs. a Strange etc because MW said it was hardened for use with roller bearing--think it was stock Glide size IIRC 
I took a Turbo shaft OUT of the trans and put in a PG spline unit as I had a good 8 inch converter with PG splines--just yanked it out slapped a couple of teflon rings on the Glide shaft and popped it right back in.
Tell me more about need a bushing / don't need one in the pump etc
School me on that deal   
I have the Turbo shaft available but not a Turbo converter at the momnent-planned on buying new turbo splined converter when I get a new one--Just wanted to run what I had a bit so I could tell converter guys what the heck I was looking for
Can I swap shafts back and forth if I have a bushing--
wondering if I have screwed up on the one in car now
Heck it runs fine! Drips just a little figured it was from bell housing bolts though I RTV'd the heck out of them behind the heads and washers
Thanks for your time man!!!!

[dusterdave173]

make that Tailshaft HOUSING extension with a roller --used stock 1.76 on output etc

[Paul New]

I have not had a powerglide trans brake since the 90's that did not require the solenoid to be depressed to back up so verify this prior to plugging the whole. Everything else sounds good you will not need any exotic parts and yes stock 1.76 planetary will hold up we ran one in our back up trans 6.70's 206mph

[bikeguy307]

You can switch back and forth between shafts with a bushing in the stator support. And Paul has brought up an issue if your brake is a pro brake it will need the solenoid to back up. If it's a standard style brake you can put a modulator plug in it. A picture of the trans-brake valve will tell the story. Yes you can get .090 and .060 friction plates from alto. You can get them, a gasket and seal kit (the race kit will come with Teflon rings), band and any bushings you need from any Transtar warehouse.   

[dusterdave173]

 Sounds good! Thanks so much for the advice!
I did everything on the car engine --just want to learn the glides so I can say I have done it all--you know
Thanks again gang!!!!!

[dusterdave173]

Here are two pix of the brake I picked up Sat at the local racers swap meet--I am thinking it will work well for me as I all I plan is to footbrake--so no need to swap it for a plain manual
Came with the TSI solonoid --I think the spring from under the plunger is missing but otherwise--thought I would yank it apart and clean it up--check it out. I noticed on Ebay that they offered valve body gaskets that in the words of the ad were "TSI Specific"  duh...don't you think one ofthe ones in a kit will work--I mean--I can compare holes etc for sure
If it is a press button to back up well...it is for sale
My car has less than 4 ft of wire--keeping it old school as possible and besides I LOVE to foot brake race--have all my life

[dusterdave173]

CASE Question--
I bought a Glide case that has bell cut off--I have apsre Ultra Bell so --guy said it was AOK they just moved up to aftermarket case so--I get it home--am cleaning it up and when you look from the rear--the hole near the "horseshoe" had a set screw to block it--also another set scre to block the hole at the 11 o clock position I am seen pointing to--I have been reading--Now , I am a rookie here--that those holes were to be enlarged etc did not think they were to be blocked??
Tell me what to do --you know my plan--use that brake--footbrake only--
The newish pump I bought still has the little roll pin and priming valve in normal position--but has new stator tube installed, new gear set, all lapped and pretty looking--passages look to be drilled out etc
It has not been drilled out to lube the thrust washer or across the the end of the hub

[bikeguy307]

The 11 o clock hole is the stock feed hole for a rear pump style case, the other hole is blocked to the rear support but should be open to the piston area. Putting plugs in the rear support side of the passages insures no leakage to that part of the case. This is done for a solid apply of the reverse clutch. The valve body you bought is a pro brake and will need the solenoid installed and hooked up to have reverse.

Dan

[dusterdave173]

Dan THANKS!! for spending time helping rookies
So..If I run a manual valve body --I take it that leaving those passages open and unblocked is OK? Or if I get a std brake go ahead and block them with the screws?
Thanks so much

[bikeguy307]

No matter which valvebody you go with, put the plugs back in the holes. This will eliminate any possible reverse leakage into the rear support area.

Glad to be of help,
Dan

[dusterdave173]

OK--Let me get this straight--I did order the book from JW--have read it cover to cover twice now--they say use a "plate" on back of cases that had rear pump- can I forget that plate??-so IF I go with a regular forward pattern MANUAL --non trans brake valve body--I plug the 11 o clock hole--- and the hole beside the "horseshoe" with short set screw so it does NOT flow to rear but does flow down to valve body side and I am OK?
My pump has new stator support with a bushing for turbo shaft--so I can use it with PG shaft OR Turbo shaft---so what if I get a used turbo converter that DOES already have a support bushing in the converter? will it still work with my bushed stator support?
Who makes a kit so I can convert a stock valve body to full manual race valve body.
I did get the kit with thin alto reds and kolenes--so for a 600HP footbrake car do I need to cut the piston and pack that baby or can I just get --how many?? thins ??in the stock drum with stock piston?  Should I buy a cut piston or is it easy enough to cut your on--I have a lathe
So then what about reverse? I am guessing stock number frictions will be OK as I am foot braking?
Is it worh cutting pump for a roller bearing or is stock bushing OK for my level
and one more--I have a nice new rebuilt pump with aftermarket stator tube and new gears --drilled everywhere--but it still has stock set up on priming valve with small roll pin--should I tap that to 1/4 pipe then..do I keep priming valve or flip it over toss the spring and do away with it like FTI says??
Dan if I was closer I would drop this thing off but....OK just one more--on the dual ring servo pistons they have with o rings or regular--which should i get and...on steel clutch hub --if I add more frictions but in a stock drum will a regular one do ?
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I did hook your pal up with that brake and he is bringing it to you for fresh up--shipped yesterday so in a way I am sending you business

[dreracecar]

Driver uses hand brake to leave off from and the peddle on trans applies reverse to back up

[dusterdave173]

Thats cool as can be!!! Kudos!!!