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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: 7.0 and nitro
« on: October 25, 2022, 08:27:34 AM »
That is what we did also.
FEDs Forever!
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2
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: 7.0 and nitro
« on: October 24, 2022, 09:14:48 AM »
Jeff...
We used a well seasoned 400 block out of a taxi. Nothing special, .030 over, 4 bolt caps, Oliver rods on a light weight Crower crank, 15:1 JE pistons with nice iron heads that flowed 300 cfm. 2 & 5/16 Hilborn injectors with a 5 gpm pump on alcohol. Nice combination ... ran low 7.70s at 175mph in a FED that weighed 1450 on the line. Actually won Jr./fuel at the first CHRR 30 years ago. Switched to 30-40% nitro
in '98 and won NE-1 at the '99 March Meet. Ran this combo another 5 years and sold the car to guys in California. They ran it injected for a while, finally put a blower on it and managed to break it. Must have been a real good casting is all I can tell you.
Mike
We used a well seasoned 400 block out of a taxi. Nothing special, .030 over, 4 bolt caps, Oliver rods on a light weight Crower crank, 15:1 JE pistons with nice iron heads that flowed 300 cfm. 2 & 5/16 Hilborn injectors with a 5 gpm pump on alcohol. Nice combination ... ran low 7.70s at 175mph in a FED that weighed 1450 on the line. Actually won Jr./fuel at the first CHRR 30 years ago. Switched to 30-40% nitro
in '98 and won NE-1 at the '99 March Meet. Ran this combo another 5 years and sold the car to guys in California. They ran it injected for a while, finally put a blower on it and managed to break it. Must have been a real good casting is all I can tell you.
Mike
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: 7.0 and nitro
« on: October 16, 2022, 08:41:54 AM »
Running A/F is a big step from 7.0 pro. More than a second if you want to outrun Bates and those guys.
Just make enough power to win rounds and not break stuff. If you are good at the tree, that approach will win some index races for you.
If you want to run a heads-up class and set records...well you better get your wallet out because we are talking apples and watermelons here.
I think we used our budget wisely, had some success, and had a xxxx of a lot of fun.
Good luck whatever you decide to do.
Mike
Just make enough power to win rounds and not break stuff. If you are good at the tree, that approach will win some index races for you.
If you want to run a heads-up class and set records...well you better get your wallet out because we are talking apples and watermelons here.
I think we used our budget wisely, had some success, and had a xxxx of a lot of fun.
Good luck whatever you decide to do.
Mike
4
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: 7.0 and nitro
« on: October 15, 2022, 10:26:10 AM »
Wideopen 231...
You will love it if you ever get out there. Index racing is perfect for injected nitro. We changed our Jr/fuel combo over to run NE1 back in the late '90s. went from 15:1 to 10.5:1 with flat top pistons, re-calibrated the fuel system with 7 gal pump & 30A nozzles, changed to aluminum rods and put a 3.70 gear in the car.
Back then the index was 7.50 and we found we could dial into the index by changing the percentage a little depending on conditions. In the good air at Bakersfield, 30 to 35% usually did the job. This is with a pretty light 1450# car with driver and 406 cu. in. sb Chevy. It left hard and would run 185 or so on the big end.
Good simple combination. We won the March Meet in 1999 and a bunch more stuff in the next few years.
I would recommend this type of combo as it is low maintenance with good results. Don't over think it and
take good care of your fuel system between races. Just my 2 cents.
Mike
You will love it if you ever get out there. Index racing is perfect for injected nitro. We changed our Jr/fuel combo over to run NE1 back in the late '90s. went from 15:1 to 10.5:1 with flat top pistons, re-calibrated the fuel system with 7 gal pump & 30A nozzles, changed to aluminum rods and put a 3.70 gear in the car.
Back then the index was 7.50 and we found we could dial into the index by changing the percentage a little depending on conditions. In the good air at Bakersfield, 30 to 35% usually did the job. This is with a pretty light 1450# car with driver and 406 cu. in. sb Chevy. It left hard and would run 185 or so on the big end.
Good simple combination. We won the March Meet in 1999 and a bunch more stuff in the next few years.
I would recommend this type of combo as it is low maintenance with good results. Don't over think it and
take good care of your fuel system between races. Just my 2 cents.
Mike
5
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Setting up Hilborn Stack Fuel Injection System
« on: April 21, 2021, 12:42:37 PM »
I have seen this same type of question so many times. The key to your injector set-up is your pump. Nozzle & jet size is all dependant on the pump output. Send the pump to Spud or Hilborn and have it flowed. Then they will ask about your engine, fuel etc. Only then will they have enough info to tell you how to set it up. Send as much of the system as you can. They can check for damage, worn out parts, leaking O-rings, etc. They can also provide instructions how to plumb the system, leak test the barrel valve and service after you get home from the race. Spud has a great tune-up calculator on his website once you have enough info to answer all the questions. Good luck.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: staying cool in summer heat
« on: July 20, 2020, 07:59:31 AM »
I agree... Keep that umbrella making shade while you wait and by all means stay hydrated.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: staying cool in summer heat
« on: July 19, 2020, 07:07:27 AM »
Ice cold rag around your neck in your fire suit when you get in car. Keeps your spinal column cool. Might have better reaction times when you feel better...
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Spud Miller's Cave / Re: New to MFI
« on: June 30, 2020, 08:30:14 AM »
The calculator solution shows the system pressure at 8000 RPM.
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Spud Miller's Cave / Re: New to MFI
« on: June 07, 2020, 10:04:56 AM »
I am old school also. The density altitude is THE major factor. When using the FIE calculator, you can set the DA to anything you want just by changing the barometric pressure input. Leave everything else alone and see what main jet is reccomended for a range of DAs from say 2000' to 10000'.(last week in Denver we ran with the VDRA and in the afternoon the DA was 9200') These jet vs. DA solutions should fall in a straight line because the pump output is linear. Make sure your pump and nozzle combination will keep the system pressure up around 80 to 100 psi. DA is available on line for most race tracks. This approach should get you in the ball park...fine tune as required.
MB
MB
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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Slowing down Transbrake
« on: February 02, 2020, 08:06:29 AM »
Wire wheels or solid? If wire, do you run a guard ring? Do you stage too deep? Minimum roll out can make things happen real fast.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: slip yoke and u-joint
« on: January 15, 2020, 08:11:32 AM »
Be safe...install a modern coupler assembly. Check out Mark Williams, S & W, Strange, Etc.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 10, 2020, 09:20:52 AM »
Just a few thoughts...
If you put the engine out about 44" (back of block to rear axle centerline) with a full length powerglide,you can use a Mark Williams collapsible coupler. Makes transmission or third member removal possible without moving the engine. You will need an alignment bar for the rear end you pick.
Fab a fixture to hold housing square on your table with axle center about 15" above ground level.Then slide the block to the desired location and set the engine angle. Basically, you build the rest of the car around this arrangement.
I wouldn't recommend building less than 150" and 175" would be better. Most cars in the mid 60s were that long and it will handle better with any power plant.
MB
If you put the engine out about 44" (back of block to rear axle centerline) with a full length powerglide,you can use a Mark Williams collapsible coupler. Makes transmission or third member removal possible without moving the engine. You will need an alignment bar for the rear end you pick.
Fab a fixture to hold housing square on your table with axle center about 15" above ground level.Then slide the block to the desired location and set the engine angle. Basically, you build the rest of the car around this arrangement.
I wouldn't recommend building less than 150" and 175" would be better. Most cars in the mid 60s were that long and it will handle better with any power plant.
MB
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Power+weight+time.
« on: September 29, 2019, 08:46:01 AM »
190" FED, blown alcohol 411 cu.in. sb Ford, 1602 lbs. with driver. Around 800hp.
4.69 sec. @ 151mph. in the 1/8th.
4.69 sec. @ 151mph. in the 1/8th.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Licencing
« on: July 20, 2019, 02:06:58 PM »
Good going!! I used to run a simular combo on alcohol. we got it to go 7.80s. You will too. Love those hemis!
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: NT/F license
« on: June 25, 2019, 08:23:45 AM »
Congrats Larry...good to see you are still at it and doing it well.
Mike
Mike