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Wanted to buy / Hilborn BL 420 Pump
« on: November 01, 2019, 12:29:00 PM »
WTB - Looking for a complete Hilborn BL 420 pump. PM or 970.231.8441
Thank you.
Dave
Thank you.
Dave
FEDs Forever!
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2
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Tin Work Questions
« on: August 13, 2019, 08:42:53 AM »
Perfect and Thank You!! I like your idea about bending a tray - makes me think maybe I could do nutserts into the pan and have the tray be removable for tranny servicing w/o removing the entire belly pan.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Tin Work Questions
« on: August 13, 2019, 07:11:28 AM »
Great ideas and yeah I was planning on hemming and rounding the edges on the back. For my seat panels I did a 1/2" hem and that seemed to work out well.
One other question - for the belly pan....I was planning on keeping the belly pan flat to the bottom rails however the transmission pan (p-glide) is about a 1/2" below the rails. I was thinking of just making a one inch deep "pocket" in the belly pan to accommodate the tranny pan vs. having the whole belly pan hanging 1" down.
Any thoughts there?? Also I assume the 3003H14 .050" Aluminum can be used for the belly pan as well??
One other question - for the belly pan....I was planning on keeping the belly pan flat to the bottom rails however the transmission pan (p-glide) is about a 1/2" below the rails. I was thinking of just making a one inch deep "pocket" in the belly pan to accommodate the tranny pan vs. having the whole belly pan hanging 1" down.
Any thoughts there?? Also I assume the 3003H14 .050" Aluminum can be used for the belly pan as well??
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Tin Work Questions
« on: August 12, 2019, 09:45:04 AM »
Wow Butch - look at that!! Pure Art that you do and Thank You!!
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Tin Work Questions
« on: August 12, 2019, 09:18:58 AM »
Albertson/Olds
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Front Engine Dragsters / Tin Work Questions
« on: August 12, 2019, 09:17:25 AM »
I've got a little K-88 I've been working on and am getting ready for body panels - sides and a cowl piece. I do want the sides to wrap around in the back (similar to the Albertson-Olds car) and am curious what material (steel, aluminum) and thickness would be recommended or what have you used?
Here is the car:
Here is the car:
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Roo Man's Room / Re: Coupler Cover Design Ideas - Shorty Glide/Olds Rear
« on: July 01, 2019, 03:08:33 PM »
Great work Butch and another nice piece. Thank you guys and sounds/looks like my original plan of going off the transmission is acceptable??
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Roo Man's Room / Re: Coupler Cover Design Ideas - Shorty Glide/Olds Rear
« on: July 01, 2019, 12:07:45 PM »
That's a nice piece 225digger and good idea. Also thank you for the insight on what a reverser is/does.
My plan that I mentioned I thought was acceptable but I can't remember where I read or was told this but when I went to the regs to check for material thickness requirements and saw that and I was like hhmmm...now what?
My plan that I mentioned I thought was acceptable but I can't remember where I read or was told this but when I went to the regs to check for material thickness requirements and saw that and I was like hhmmm...now what?
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Roo Man's Room / Coupler Cover Design Ideas - Shorty Glide/Olds Rear
« on: July 01, 2019, 10:23:01 AM »
I've got a shorty glide coupled to an '59 Olds rearend and I'm in the process of designing a coupler cover. Since the olds third member doesn't have bolts at the pinion like a 9", I had planned to CNC a steel plate that picks up 3 bolts on the back of the transmission and then have 2 halves of .125" wall steel tubing clamshell off the plate to extend back and cover the nose of the third member.
I was reviewing the General Regulations before starting and noticed the last part of Section 2.4 states...."All covers must be securely mounted to the frame, suitable crossmember, reverser or third member." I notice the back of the transmission is not an option and honestly I don't even know what a reverser is.
Before I start building cross members any ideas on design/mounting configurations?
Thank You Roo.
I was reviewing the General Regulations before starting and noticed the last part of Section 2.4 states...."All covers must be securely mounted to the frame, suitable crossmember, reverser or third member." I notice the back of the transmission is not an option and honestly I don't even know what a reverser is.
Before I start building cross members any ideas on design/mounting configurations?
Thank You Roo.
10
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: May 08, 2019, 01:30:14 PM »
denverflatheader -
I honestly thought I would never be able to own a 12 Port but God definitely shined down on me for this deal. Had to go to CA to get it but with the history of the head (being owned by Kay Sissell) and the right price I couldn't pass it up.
I would agree - I think CO does have an above average number for GMC 12 Ports - I kinda like that.
FTF – quite the vision you share, doing your part helping our Earth rotate :
I agree and my build certainly doesn't fit the main stream FED world of today but I thought others might enjoy it. Thanks for your interest.
I honestly thought I would never be able to own a 12 Port but God definitely shined down on me for this deal. Had to go to CA to get it but with the history of the head (being owned by Kay Sissell) and the right price I couldn't pass it up.
I would agree - I think CO does have an above average number for GMC 12 Ports - I kinda like that.
FTF – quite the vision you share, doing your part helping our Earth rotate :
I agree and my build certainly doesn't fit the main stream FED world of today but I thought others might enjoy it. Thanks for your interest.
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: May 08, 2019, 01:20:47 PM »Thanks dreracecar and matter of fact that is what I knocked out this weekend. I used a pillow block with a machined block to get it further out towards the pitman arm. It certainly helps.
Support the steering shaft out closer to the pitman arm, Hitting a bump with the front wheels and jerking the steering will bend that .750 shaft hanging out that far from the support.Run a tape line to represent the body and run the support out as far as you can without getting into the body also an FYI, Most Racing org. require a screw/positive lock cap for the fuel tank as the "flip top" style tends to pop open in the event of a crash
And on that cap - I thought the same thing and asked the head tech inspector (sent him a picture of the tank) at my track before I bought that tank. He said with the class I will be running in it is fine. And believe me....I'm keeping all these e-mails. Just in case I have a Moon tank sitting on the shelf with the screw top like you mention.
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: May 06, 2019, 10:39:08 AM »
Bungs will be welded front and back...
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: May 06, 2019, 10:29:52 AM »
With the third member in the car I was finaly able to finalize my mid-plate mount. I had to shim the mid-plate (washers for mock-up now) a bit on each side to get the coupler to slide freely. With that in place I took some bungs (7/16/20 threads) and came through the front hoop with and butted up to the mid-plate and bolted through the front.
Now the engine is held by the front mount and at the mid plate with the coupler able to slide freely.
Upon final assembly I'll set the coupler play at 1/8" or at least that's my plan.
Now the engine is held by the front mount and at the mid plate with the coupler able to slide freely.
Upon final assembly I'll set the coupler play at 1/8" or at least that's my plan.