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Gassers / Re: 61 Falcon
« on: August 30, 2020, 11:55:01 AM »
Looking good:) Doesn't appear to be a Chevy II v-8 block, they all had a recessed oil filter mounting flange cast into the block.
FEDs Forever!
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2
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Shimming torque converter flexplate mounts.
« on: August 04, 2020, 08:43:09 AM »
I had the same situation with the current engine and the previous engine. The first engine was a 1 piece rear seal deal and I had to put in a 0.090" shim from Competition Engineering (1 piece seal shims are different from 2 piece shims). Had about 3/4 starter to flywheel tooth engagement at that point and still had too much space. So I took the advise of someone on the board and placed a Grade 8 flat washer between the flywheel and the convertor mount pad. Work perfectly, just be sure all 3 of the washers are exactly the same thickness.
When I installed the newest engine it also required a shim but didn't require any flat washers to get the correct 1/16" to 3/16" spacing. As long as you have at least 3/4 engage of the solenoid gear and the flywheel gear you should be fine.
When I installed the newest engine it also required a shim but didn't require any flat washers to get the correct 1/16" to 3/16" spacing. As long as you have at least 3/4 engage of the solenoid gear and the flywheel gear you should be fine.
3
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Flip-up cowl
« on: June 05, 2020, 07:52:05 PM »
It’s hot and humid on the plains of Kansas this evening so I’m not going out anywhere. Now since I have the time, let me address your question Bruce: “How am I doing so far???”. Well, when Jay shared his cowl project with us all you could muster with your first reply was “so much wrong, I really don’t know where to begin”. Nothing more, just a snide comment with absolutely no intrinsic value.
Now it appears you’ve had a few days to think about it and decided you found a starting point to begin, the result being you proceeded to take a huge crap on the man’s car. And coming from a big fella as yourself it was an extremely large load. In the end you still didn’t comment on his cowl or ask any further questions of inquiry concerning his project. Most of us here are trying to support one another in a positive and constructive manner, but on occasion there are some here that appear to be the south end of a heifer that’s headed north.
Now it appears you’ve had a few days to think about it and decided you found a starting point to begin, the result being you proceeded to take a huge crap on the man’s car. And coming from a big fella as yourself it was an extremely large load. In the end you still didn’t comment on his cowl or ask any further questions of inquiry concerning his project. Most of us here are trying to support one another in a positive and constructive manner, but on occasion there are some here that appear to be the south end of a heifer that’s headed north.
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Tow Vehicles / Re: Trailer build question
« on: January 27, 2020, 11:05:30 AM »
Got your PM. Thanks, will send you a PM soon:)
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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: trans shield replacement
« on: January 25, 2020, 10:07:31 AM »
Couldn’t find anything on the thickness of the transmission cover so I’d suspect a minimum of .032” aluminum or .024” steel. You can always call your NHRA division office and they can probably point you to a tech person that could answer that question.
The rulebook:
Section 4A, #7
“Subflooring independent of car body is mandatory in dragster that allows driver’s legs to rest on belly pan or chassis.”
Section 21, #6.1
“All interior panels (firewalls, floors, wheel tubs, doors, etc.) within the driver compartment of enclosed cockpit cars where the driver is located behind the engine must be constructed of materials other than magnesium.”
Section 21, #7.5
“Belly pans and subfloors enclosing engine or driver compartment must contain suitable drain holes so that liquids and foreign matter cannot collect, thus creating a fire hazard. Minimum .032-inch aluminum or .024-inch steel.”
The rulebook:
Section 4A, #7
“Subflooring independent of car body is mandatory in dragster that allows driver’s legs to rest on belly pan or chassis.”
Section 21, #6.1
“All interior panels (firewalls, floors, wheel tubs, doors, etc.) within the driver compartment of enclosed cockpit cars where the driver is located behind the engine must be constructed of materials other than magnesium.”
Section 21, #7.5
“Belly pans and subfloors enclosing engine or driver compartment must contain suitable drain holes so that liquids and foreign matter cannot collect, thus creating a fire hazard. Minimum .032-inch aluminum or .024-inch steel.”
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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Shorty Powerglide Conversion
« on: January 24, 2020, 11:40:22 AM »
BK is right, the NHRA rulebook states " Aftermarket axles and axle retention device mandatory on Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Top Alcohol Dragster, Top Alcohol Funny Car, Comp, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, and 10.99 or quicker E.T. cars; also mandatory on any car (regardless of class or E.T.) with a spool." Looks like your combination should run somewhere in the 10 second range so aftermarket axle would be required. Lots of rules and requirements and most all are for safety:)
While you can get by with re-splined axles in a low horsepower and lightweight car, a full size doorslammer running the same times would surely abuse them. Same rule covers both situations so...
While you can get by with re-splined axles in a low horsepower and lightweight car, a full size doorslammer running the same times would surely abuse them. Same rule covers both situations so...
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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: trans shield replacement
« on: January 24, 2020, 10:17:26 AM »
SFI flexplate required along with an SFI shield. NHRA says with flexplate & trans shield & trans cover -5 suit. With flexplate & trans shield -15.
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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Sharty Powerglide Conversion
« on: January 24, 2020, 08:00:59 AM »
According to their website, Moser Engineering can shorten and re-spline your output shaft for $75. Click on the "Support" at the top of their page then click on "Shop Services". They can also shorten and re-spline your stock axles.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 21, 2020, 11:04:04 AM »
Hold on there a moment partner, my reply was to your reply that stated “Disc brakes are lighter and lower reciprocal weight than heavy drums that take time and HP to get going” and "Some people are not smart-just cheap". Let me remind you of some words spoken in this forum: “its more like why spend the money for somthing that is not needed.” I agree with that statement as well as you. You wrote it! For the speeds he’ll run in the 1/8 mile I stand by my words as long as all the brake components are in good condition so why spend more money if not needed.
And it’s now you bring up safety??? Safety should never have been an after-thought. Your assumption that quality products must be made in the USA is a personal opinion at best, unless of course you have documentation of such in the area of drum brake components. I checked and there are still both regular and semi-metallic brake shoes available off the shelf and there are several companies that can reline your core shoes with the bonded or riveted linings of your choice. Rest assured, my opinion of doing things safely will never change as well. And this comes from an old guy that actually climbs in and races his car down the track.
And it’s now you bring up safety??? Safety should never have been an after-thought. Your assumption that quality products must be made in the USA is a personal opinion at best, unless of course you have documentation of such in the area of drum brake components. I checked and there are still both regular and semi-metallic brake shoes available off the shelf and there are several companies that can reline your core shoes with the bonded or riveted linings of your choice. Rest assured, my opinion of doing things safely will never change as well. And this comes from an old guy that actually climbs in and races his car down the track.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 20, 2020, 08:40:17 PM »
Back in the 70’s I had 2 different FEDs that used drum brakes. One had an 8 3/4 with Chrysler drum brakes with semi-metallic linings that ran 140+ and one had an 8 3/4 with 1962 Pontiac Bonneville drum brakes with semi-metallic linings that ran 150+. Both cars had iron BBC in them and I never had an issue with brake fade or any other brake problems. At the speeds you’d be running with your engines and as long as all the brake components are in good condition, I’d use them. They may be heavier that discs? but they are every bit as effective. And it ain’t got nothing to do with being cheap but more to do with being wise with your funds.
Looking at the parts you have maybe put one of your engines in with a Powerglide, buy a 4000rpm stall convertor and feed it to the 8 ľ rear with a stock open rear end with original gears. Both my earlier FEDs used stock open carriers with 4.10 gears and the faster car would pull the front end up 10” and carry it for 60 or 70 feet and ran perfectly straight. I put a 300hp 350 in my 1600# altered with a 2100 stall convertor (totally wrong) and ran 6.81 @ 103mph in the 1/8th. It was so consistent that I made money with the car! No reason you can’t do the same and have a good time doing it.
Looking at the parts you have maybe put one of your engines in with a Powerglide, buy a 4000rpm stall convertor and feed it to the 8 ľ rear with a stock open rear end with original gears. Both my earlier FEDs used stock open carriers with 4.10 gears and the faster car would pull the front end up 10” and carry it for 60 or 70 feet and ran perfectly straight. I put a 300hp 350 in my 1600# altered with a 2100 stall convertor (totally wrong) and ran 6.81 @ 103mph in the 1/8th. It was so consistent that I made money with the car! No reason you can’t do the same and have a good time doing it.
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: OldSchool FNG
« on: January 11, 2020, 11:09:16 AM »
Welcome to the forum. Always nice to see another SBC powered altered!
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Tow Vehicles / Trailer build question
« on: December 19, 2019, 08:58:53 AM »
I’m needing to build a new open trailer for my racecar and want to incorporate an idea used in the video below by Jason on his trailer. The hitch/tongue tube slides into a couple of receiver tubes that appear to have adjusters welded to the four sides to adjust the horizontal & vertical clearance. If you go to time marker 2:23 on the video it shows what I’m talking about. Any idea of what the adjusters are or where I can get them?
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Altereds / Re: Wheelie bar length?
« on: November 04, 2019, 07:58:32 AM »
The wheelie bar on my altered is 79" from the mounting point of the top bar on the housing to the center of the wheel at the end. Both top and bottom mounting holes on the axle are on the same vertical plane as the axle centerline. Hope this helps.