Messages

1

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Baseline starting tips

« on: May 19, 2022, 12:27:01 PM »

On my blown alky SBC, I usually run around 32°-35° but each motor is different. I don't have egt sensors so I go by engine response and plugs, old school.

2

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel filter placement

« on: August 02, 2021, 12:36:19 PM »

I use a -20 filter before the pump, remember, when the fuel is being sucked into the pump, the vent line(s) are sucking in air for the displaced fuel so the tank is getting air, how clean the air is depends on where your vent is.

3

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: intake gasket sealing

« on: October 12, 2020, 07:27:04 AM »

I've been using Loctite 598 Black gasket maker on my blown alky SBC for years with no issues.

4

Jon's Wheel House / Re: How to determine what spindles I have

« on: September 07, 2020, 07:47:01 AM »

On the spindle, where the outer bearings ride just behind the axle nut, the Anglia is approximately .625 diameter, the Strange is .750 diameter.

5

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Shimming torque converter flexplate mounts.

« on: August 06, 2020, 07:49:04 AM »

Make sure that the flex plate is not installed backwards, it should be marked as to which side goes against the motor.


On my initial build, the converter to flex plate gap was a little over 3/8", took it to Hughes and they built up the converter pad and now fits pretty good. As I replace the flex plate, I sometimes use washers between the pad and flex plate but not more of a combined thickness 1/16, I like to keep around 1/8" gap for the pads. I also use a thin shim between flex plate and motor for motor plate clearance and starter engagement.

6

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hat nozzle type and starting issue

« on: August 10, 2019, 06:24:42 PM »

The best way to troubleshoot is to film your starting process as you actually are starting then post it on here so we can see.


As for starter cranking it just fine, if it's not spinning the motor at a minimum of 1000 rpm, the pump will take some time to prime.

7

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hat nozzle type and starting issue

« on: August 10, 2019, 09:46:47 AM »

Is the motor self-starting or do you use an external starter? I take it that it self-starting so my comments below are based on that, my car is also self-starting.

When it starts and runs, does it run rich? I so then yes, too much fuel and unless you totally flooded the motor, it should start and run but it will be rich. When my mag was going out, it would start but run like crap; rich, popping flames and sounding like crap but it did start.

That first puff is what you squirted in so the motor is just about out of fuel so you need to dribble the fuel in as the motor is being cranked over. A self-starting car doesn't really spin the motor fast enough on the first go to prime the fuel pump, that's why you need to dribble the fuel in while spinning to get the motor running to prime the pump.

And as for the clip to hold butterfly's more open, what is your gap now and what have you set the barrel valve leak down to? If you need to increase the gap to start it then you need redo the whole leak down setting, I've never seen that being done.

8

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hat nozzle type and starting issue

« on: August 09, 2019, 08:30:20 PM »

I think you mean aerated nozzles and if I remember correctly, they mostly work when you let up from wide open throttle.

It sounds to me that not enough fuel is being used during priming. When I start my car by myself, I give it a 2-3 seconds of squirting into the hat and even then it may start then die immediately and I have to re-squirt.

If someone is helping by doing the priming, have them give the 2-3 second squirt then dribble the fuel in right in front of the hat blades, they can stop when the motor rpm evens out.

9

Drag Racing / Re: New to supercharging, need some pointers

« on: August 03, 2019, 12:56:41 PM »

Feeling cold is not proof of maintaining a 64° cooling charge as you stated.

10

Drag Racing / Re: New to supercharging, need some pointers

« on: August 03, 2019, 09:39:43 AM »

Alc maintains a 64* cooling charge into the intake port

Don't think that is correct, temp at the intake port would be determined by amount of pressure and amount of air compressed mixed with the alcohol.

11

Drag Racing / Re: New to supercharging, need some pointers

« on: August 03, 2019, 07:52:37 AM »

My little SBC has 11.5:1 compression ratio and in my opinion, if you start with low compression, you're going to have to spin the blower much faster and at a certain point, it will become the less efficient, and, the intake air will get heated more and that's not what you want to do.

12

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel tank to fuel pump elevation

« on: July 25, 2019, 08:55:09 PM »

Just took the tank out, plugged off exit/feed.  filled it up, put cap back on, pulled plug on feed and it flowed without issue.  i did it twice, once without the cap, once with the cap on and the flow was comparative both times.  it just pours out.

In my opinion, you should do all your testing with the tank in the car with the car sitting on the ground so you are duplicating actual conditions.

13

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel tank to fuel pump elevation

« on: July 24, 2019, 12:11:25 PM »

Unless you changed tank heights between runs, that height is consistent so i would rule that out.

I would fill the tank and disconnect the line to pump and see if it flows, it almost sounds like something is blocking the tank output.

Also, I agree about tank level and pump height not being an issue, but only to a point.

If you do build a new tank, make sure the outlet is at the lowest point.

14

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?

« on: March 18, 2019, 06:03:45 PM »

2019 NHRA Rulebook and 2019 HRHS Rulebook General Regulations

7:5 FLOOR
All cars without floors must be equipped with floor pans made of steel or aluminum that must extend the full length and width of the driver compartment to the rear of the driver’s seat. Cars equipped with floors or belly pans made of fiberglass or other breakable material must have metal subfloors. In all cars with OEM fiberglass floors, a crossmember (minimum 2 inches x 2 inches, .083-inch wall thickness square tubing) must be installed between framerails for proper driver’s seat, seat belt, shoulder harness, and crotch strap installation. Belly pans and subfloors enclosing engine or driver compartment must contain suitable drain holes so that liquids and foreign matter cannot collect, thus creating a fire hazard. Minimum .032-inch aluminum or .024-inch steel. In certain instances, an NHRA-accepted panel made of composite material may be substituted for steel or aluminum. Contact the NHRA Technical Services Department for list of accepted composite panels. Use of magnesium prohibited.

15

Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Replace the cage

« on: December 29, 2018, 09:17:15 AM »

I just had my roll cage redone to raise it a few inches and I supplied the pre-bent tubing from Mark Williams, around $350 funny car style, and had a local chassis guy cut the old cage off and fit and welded the new cage at a specific location and the chassis guy charged me $500 and did it in 2 days.