Messages

1

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Cage/Helmet Clearance

« on: September 21, 2022, 03:47:00 PM »

Started constructing and planning the roll cage for my FED. Driver was here today and we mocked it up with him in the car, helmet on, with 2" of clearance over the top of his helmet. To that we added the thickness of SFI padding to be installed. Called S&W race cars where I bought my chassis plans and talked to a tech. He said there's no actual minimum but to have enough clearance for some head movement, and not so tight to hamper doing a quick get-out in an emergency. So, am I on the right track with 2" between the helmet and the roll bar padding? It seemed to me that too much clearance would be as bad as not enough.

I'll appreciate thoughts.

Lynn

There is an actual minimum listed in the SFI spec.  Either 2 or 3 inches I can't remember and it doesn't really seem to be enforced

2

Roo Man's Room / Re: King pin / spindle bushings

« on: July 16, 2022, 04:29:32 PM »

Anglia type spindles?  There's been a few manufacturers through the years and sometimes you can tell the manufacturer by the king pin boss and I know I've seen them with flanged bushings.  Being from outside the US you might see if you could find a machine shop to come up with something for you.

3

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: rack and pinion in FED ?

« on: July 16, 2022, 04:20:31 PM »

Keeping the tires in the beams was what I was thinking.  Before I started building cars ( I started with bracket RED's)  I spent a lot of time watching them on the starting line just for that reason.  They tended to snap the front tires up real quick and set them down just as fast which seemed to cause erratic lights.

The first couple RED's I built were pretty typical and had similar issues.  I played with letting the front half have some sag on a couple of them hoping to give it time to go forward while it was taking the sag out of the front half and it seemed to help.  The last 2 I built i freed up all the uprights and crossmembers in the front half and those cars would leave the starting line with the left front 4" off the ground and the right never leaving the asphalt.  They were dead consistent on the tree after that.

4

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: rack and pinion in FED ?

« on: July 14, 2022, 04:13:02 PM »

Just out of curiosity, what's the reason you'd like to put front suspension on your car?

5

Wanted to sell / Re: BBC tunnel ram injection

« on: March 10, 2022, 02:13:22 PM »

SOLD

6

Wanted to sell / Re: BBC tunnel ram injection

« on: January 09, 2022, 06:53:55 AM »

Price includes shipping in the lower 48 states.  I've tried to upload pics but even re-sized they won't load

7

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Initial engine install:

« on: January 08, 2022, 07:57:45 PM »

When I build a car the weight of the block is supported by the alignment bar and the bar is supported by the jig so naturally this  leaves no preload on the chassis.  As mentioned, if you're not using an alignment bar you'll probably come out way ahead to get all your driveline parts in place and make sure the coupler slides free through the whole process. 

8

Wanted to sell / Re: BBC tunnel ram injection

« on: January 08, 2022, 09:37:32 AM »

We ran 8.37 with this in good weather with a 12.5/1 standard bore and stroke BBC with Dart 310 heads and Erson cam.  I'll throw the like new cam in with the deal

9

Wanted to sell / Re: BBC tunnel ram injection

« on: January 08, 2022, 09:25:37 AM »

$1650....can't believe I forgot that....

10

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED Build

« on: December 29, 2021, 03:07:11 PM »

Got some tubing in today and to the naked eye it looked a little thinner wall than what I ordered. I de-burred the edge and checked the wall thickness. Yikes......010" - .011" under the "advertised" wall thickness! My long-time steel supplier said the steel industry is really a mess these days and I'd say there's no doubt about that. He's going to check other tubing in his stock to see if some is on spec. On the bright side I won't be needing that particular tubing for at least a few days, so I can continue some modest progress with what I have on hand.

I've been jigging up some of the cockpit area and bending tubing. Got far enough today to actually tack weld a few pieces together. Woo-hoo!

Lynn

4130 or mild?

11

Wanted to sell / BBC tunnel ram injection

« on: December 27, 2021, 10:55:16 AM »

Short deck BBC tunnel ram injection.  Set up for alcohol.  Bug catcher on a Holley Pro Dominator intake. Includes pump (not shown, it's on its way back from getting flowed) and belt drive.  Text 603-234-9496 for pics

12

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: 12 bolt drop out

« on: December 05, 2021, 06:47:32 AM »

I don't have one or know where there is one but I'm pretty sure you couldn't swap it out for a 9" (if that was your plan) because the pinion height is different.

13

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Good Powerglide Build Book?

« on: November 07, 2021, 11:48:49 AM »

The Quarter Pro shifter is a nice piece and reasonably priced for the basic shifter, no solenoid or line lock button.  Looks good, works good and compact.

14

Roo Man's Room / Re: Torsion bar adjustment

« on: June 26, 2021, 05:42:21 AM »

The part of the VW torsion bar that provides movement is a stack of 1 inch-ish by 1/8" ish flat bars [been a while, can't quite remember] stacked together to form a square "shaft" that slides through the tube and is held in the center by a female square welded into the tube.  The arms have a female square that slides over the square shaft and locate in the end of the bar. 

    Some that I've seen have a 3 bolt cover over the arm where it slides into the tube that can be used to adjust the friction on the bar and slow down it's movement.  Figuring out a way to bolt that arm down tight is all you need to do.

15

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Novice needing some help from the veterans on a build and some rules

« on: June 25, 2021, 07:08:53 PM »

Aside from the chassis cert, how much other work is required to make this car the way you want it?  Are you doing the fab work? If the car isn't currently set up for a Chrysler are you prepared and capable to get the new engine mounted with near perfect alignment for the couplers used in the driveline?  What trans is that chassis set up for and is there enough room for the trans you plan to run?

    If you're not doing the fab work something to consider is that some chassis builders consider anything other than their own work is "wrong" and will try to make you change a pile of stuff to the way they do it whether it needs it or not.  This can obviously add up to a pretty serious amount of money.  If you're going to do the work I'd suggest spending a lot of time at nostalgia races studying cars and classes.  Also if you're doing the work keep in mind that the last 10% of the work takes 90% of the time and that's what usually stops projects.  It takes a lot of follow through to finish a car nice.

   Another option to consider is buying a used late model roller.  Something built [and run] in the last ten years will likely be up to date and will come with a bunch of stuff.  You may find something that literally needs an engine and trans plugged into it to be a complete car.  One other thing to consider is your experience level with a blown mechanically injected engine.  Not a huge deal but some people can't quite wrap they're heads around it.

  Whatever you end up doing make sure you have fun!