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Spud Miller's Cave / Re: enderle nozzles onto hilborn 4-port
« on: September 19, 2017, 04:53:51 AM »
or would this style be better?
FEDs Forever!
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Spud Miller's Cave / enderle nozzles onto hilborn 4-port
« on: September 18, 2017, 05:27:43 PM »
I have a hilborn 4-port upright injector with the wrong size hilborn nozzles, and a friend of mine has a ton of enderle nozzles.
What enderle nozzle holders / bodies would work to replace my hilborn nozzles that I have that are too large?
Would an Enderle 7110 be the right nozzle body to thread into the injector? Or would that project into the throttle bore too far?
They need the air bleed holes, right? Can I drill those in myself?
Its a mild 354 with 80A pump on methanol, 4 port with 3" dia butterflies. No port nozzles (for now).
What enderle nozzle holders / bodies would work to replace my hilborn nozzles that I have that are too large?
Would an Enderle 7110 be the right nozzle body to thread into the injector? Or would that project into the throttle bore too far?
They need the air bleed holes, right? Can I drill those in myself?
Its a mild 354 with 80A pump on methanol, 4 port with 3" dia butterflies. No port nozzles (for now).
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Wanted to buy / Re: WANTED: 16x10 wheels
« on: February 17, 2017, 04:57:20 AM »
I agree its hard to find that pattern, but they do exist
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Wanted to buy / WANTED: 16x10 wheels
« on: February 16, 2017, 06:14:28 PM »
Looking for old-school wheels, like Halibrand or 5-spoke American, 4.5" bolt circle
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Recent New Guy here
« on: November 02, 2014, 07:58:07 PM »
Is Kerry on here too?
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies or not ?
« on: November 02, 2014, 02:18:01 PM »Is it not against the law to run anything other than zoomies on a FED? If not it should be.
As for the nosie level thats a bonus. If you want piece and quite go to a library. If you want smoke and ground pounding noise head to dragstrip.
Right on!
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies or not ?
« on: November 02, 2014, 02:17:16 PM »In order for them to be weed burners, don't they have to point to the ground?
they do at times
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies or not ?
« on: November 02, 2014, 01:15:44 PM »
I really like my weedburners... the early cars had weedburners.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Recent New Guy here
« on: November 02, 2014, 12:35:38 PM »
Jacin,
I am happy to see you are on board here. I have always appreciated your many tech posts on the HAMB and have referred back to them several times - most recently when building my own FED. I appreciate your 'out of the box' approach to the problems we encounter building these projects, as well as your time that you take to share your many solutions. Thank you.
Art
I am happy to see you are on board here. I have always appreciated your many tech posts on the HAMB and have referred back to them several times - most recently when building my own FED. I appreciate your 'out of the box' approach to the problems we encounter building these projects, as well as your time that you take to share your many solutions. Thank you.
Art
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FEDs on trailers
« on: November 02, 2014, 12:23:32 PM »
My 144" wheelbase car when I had it on my 16' utility trailer for its first haul (short local trip). Even though it was unfinished, people really checked it out as I was hauling down the road. Now it is functional (they are never done) and I purchased a 20' enclosed trailer to keep the car safe and out of any bad weather, as it is a relatively long haul to the track I like to race at. My enclosed trailer has cabinets in the front to store the necessary stuff out of the way and out of sight. I wish my enclosed trailer could be made to tilt, as my FED has very little ground clearance at the engine oil pan...so I must use REALLY LONG ramps and also raise the trailer tongue. The ramps must be parallel to the trailer deck to get the car in or out without bottoming. If I were to ever make a trailer, it certainly would be a tilt deck like Jacins pictured earlier.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: bracing under dragster in trailer during transport
« on: November 02, 2014, 12:02:37 PM »
Very nice trailer Jacin!
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Roo Man's Room / Re: Tips for distinguishing mild steel from chromoly chassis?
« on: October 05, 2014, 07:00:21 PM »
A couple of the larger scrap processor yards around here have these Niton (spelling?) guns that zap a small spot of the clean metal and then look at the spectrum emitted to identify exactly what the material is made of and what percentages. If any chromium shows up in your case, then you have your answer. Perhaps a bigger scrap metal processor in your area has one.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What did you do on your Front Engine Dragster TODAY?
« on: August 23, 2014, 07:46:15 PM »
Today I test fitted my recently acquired magnesium M/T valve covers...
and then stared at it for a while.
Then I made sure the original spark plug tubes were compatible, and they are.
and then stared at it for a while.
Then I made sure the original spark plug tubes were compatible, and they are.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Early hemi powered vintage style rail
« on: August 08, 2014, 05:30:39 PM »
looks like the 2-1bbl marine intake manifold???
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Roo Man's Room / Re: front axle alignment specs
« on: April 02, 2014, 09:13:06 PM »
I don't have the axle width handy, but will measure it next time I am working on the car.
I do completely understand the ackerman principle, I learned and applied it when building go-karts as a kid. Thanks for bringing it up. Tires appear to have some wear from excessive toe (saw-toothed towards center of car).
Steering is with a bellcrank at the front. The tie rod is one piece connecting both steering arms. A second link connects the right steering arm to the bellcrank. I have already learned how sensitive the steering linkage kinematics are to the various link lengths. You are certainly right about that Rooman! We used 1/2" EMT electrical conduit sections with 3/8"NF nuts tacked inside to determine what the lengths needed to be in order for it to steer properly. Even pitman arm position is a factor - balancing frame clearance, header clearance (early hemi), steering angles, etc... its quite a balancing act. Then I made the tie rods to the correct lengths.
Thank you guys for the replies.
I do completely understand the ackerman principle, I learned and applied it when building go-karts as a kid. Thanks for bringing it up. Tires appear to have some wear from excessive toe (saw-toothed towards center of car).
Steering is with a bellcrank at the front. The tie rod is one piece connecting both steering arms. A second link connects the right steering arm to the bellcrank. I have already learned how sensitive the steering linkage kinematics are to the various link lengths. You are certainly right about that Rooman! We used 1/2" EMT electrical conduit sections with 3/8"NF nuts tacked inside to determine what the lengths needed to be in order for it to steer properly. Even pitman arm position is a factor - balancing frame clearance, header clearance (early hemi), steering angles, etc... its quite a balancing act. Then I made the tie rods to the correct lengths.
Thank you guys for the replies.
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