Messages

1

Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Looking for history

« on: November 14, 2021, 09:47:53 AM »

I'm trying to believe it, there are some distinct resemblance with this car.
I would like to confirm it.
I haven't been able to reach anyone on that team.

If it's the same car, I am quite happy with my decision to restore every nut and bolt and doing my best not to replace anything with the latest equipment. 

2

Rear Engine Dragsters / Looking for history

« on: November 13, 2021, 05:01:47 AM »

I am restoring an old rear engine car for my friend.
He recently got the car again after selling it 18yrs ago.
I would like to know if anyone recognizes the car, or give me directions of a chassis registry other than this old SEMA builders list.
The chassis has the number 26 stamped in it next to the 101 SEMA number.
The 101 at SEMA are B.J.C. Racing Enterprises out of New Jersey

3

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Vaccuum Pumps

« on: November 27, 2020, 02:41:44 PM »

Here's a note from David Reher, of Reher-Morrison

On the dyno, we see fluctuations in oil pressure when the crankcase vacuum approaches 15 inches with a wet-sump system. We use an adjustable air bleed (essentially a controlled leak) to regulate the maximum pan vacuum to between 10 and 12 inches. With the wet-sump system we install on our Super Series bracket racing big-blocks, we see no fluctuations in oil pressure at this vacuum.

https://rehermorrison.com/tech-talk-24-panning-for-power/

4

Roo Man's Room / Re: Towing with a strap

« on: November 27, 2020, 02:03:01 PM »

I absolutely hate being towed.
If you have the chance, rig up a bar to push the car.

5

Roo Man's Room / Re: chassis top rail has bowed outwards

« on: November 27, 2020, 01:59:13 PM »

I think the tube that holds the steering box should be fastened to both top rails...

6

Roo Man's Room / Re: welding ?

« on: December 20, 2015, 11:46:56 AM »

Thanks again for all the reply's, I am not sure but I did some more practice with scrap on the bench and I think maybe I was holding the arc a little to close and I see my argon tank is getting pretty low. I am confident in all the welds on the car I was just having to regrind tungsten more than I think is right.  Anyway new bottle next week, regroup, work on the engine this weekend and hit it again.

 Lean against anything you can while welding, lean against the table, the chassis, rest your elbows and wrists against whatever to stabilize your movements while laying bead.

7

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: sbc HP per cubic inch

« on: September 28, 2015, 12:37:10 PM »

Here's a short video on rod ratio.

 

8

Roo Man's Room / Rear gear reccomendation

« on: September 28, 2015, 10:19:39 AM »

Hi guys.

I need a reccomendation on what 9"Ford rear ratio to use,
I want more wheelspeed now, as I am producing way more power than I anticipated when I built the car.

Yes,yes, the car has way more tire than it needs, but for the time being, I will have to work with what I got.

I had 5.43:1 previously, and it worked well on the 300ft sandtrack, but there was no engine load on the concrete dragstrip.

I would like a gear that suits the car for 1/8mile racing.

The FED is 1880 pounds with me in it, rides on 32 and 33" high tires.
 has a 1.76 low gear glide and a transbrake. It likes to shift at 7000, has 5000stall converter.
The engine is 377ci SBC with the occational 400 shot of nitrous. About 1000hp total.

I was planning on using a 4.56:1 I got lying around but it turns out it's damaged, so a gear purchase is in the works.
Thank you for all your input.

9

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: New Zoomies are done!

« on: September 21, 2015, 02:35:42 PM »

You nailed it   

10

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Sand drag pics 'n videos

« on: September 18, 2015, 05:32:16 AM »

Yeah, that one is mine, i finished it 2011 and have been racing since.
I used a collection of pictures from this site as an inspiration and summoned up a bunch of ideas and styles that I liked into this car.
I just measured our open trailer and maxed out the wheelbase to fit it, same with the wheelie bar, with it's wheel off, it perfectly fits above the trailer tongue.

9"ford rear, powerglide and a stock block and crank SBC.
That fireball is from a 400shot of nitrous, preignited from a failing headgasket.

11

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Sand drag pics 'n videos

« on: September 17, 2015, 10:22:34 AM »

Had a blast this last weekend, at the last race of the season.
Had to retire due to a blown headgasket/lifting head, but still managed second place amongst the bigblock giants.
here are some pictures and two videos.

12

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Sand drag pics 'n videos

« on: August 18, 2015, 01:45:56 PM »

Had a blast last weekend where I pushed the FED into second place.
The little mouse that could took the beating from the 36jet in the fogger, 6 runs in total and even managed to load on the trailer under its own power after the event.
Best ET was 3.674 at 86.37mph

 

 

 

13

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Sand drag pics 'n videos

« on: July 06, 2015, 05:25:14 PM »

Went out for some N/A asphalt testing last Thursday. Didn't take any pictures myself, but there's always someone with a camera.
 The engine is now 377ci and somewhere around 11 in in compression, still fit for kill on nitrous oxide so I didn't expect much naturally aspirated running the zoomies. Ran similar numbers as last time out, regardless of 30 less cubic inches.
 Got the new individual port nitrous system installed, and had the body body panels polished up for a local indoor car show. after three or four more car shows it will look awesome...
 There's a big sand drag event in August where all the heavy hitters will be, and hopefully I can get it through there safely without engine carnage.

14

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Aluminum rod lifespan.

« on: August 05, 2014, 03:33:10 AM »

Sbc nitrous, ca 900-950hp. Shifts at 7300 traps in 8000. Bought them plenty used from a nitrous formula offroad car. 6years in our engine, street and track use. Manley 6".

15

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Stud pull

« on: July 09, 2014, 11:46:41 AM »

 As we just finished fixing the deck on the 400sbc again, I wanted to share with you guys a link I found, regarding the effects of fine threads on stud pull when coarse thread torque values are used.

http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx

When used in aftermarket engine blocks, the added clamping force from fine thread studs and nuts may be fine, but when using 40+years old iron the chance of pulling out threads and cracking components increase dramaticly.