Messages

1

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail

« on: February 18, 2019, 04:08:08 PM »

Welcome back to the sport. If your planning on a fed. 9" ford or Mopar will be more then sufficient. The mopar would probable cost less. Biggest item of concern is to build your cage area wide, 20-21" at the shoulders. This will be one of your biggest resale issue if you ever want to sell in further. Just buy the book for the sfi chassis that you may want to run. or have some one build you the chassis so they can fit mtr. trans and rear in properly. well good luck and enjoy yourself.

2

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / mech.fi

« on: August 05, 2018, 06:45:57 AM »

hi matt, maybe you can help me out. I'm running mech. hilborn fi on my nostalgia 1952 mgtd. the fi is on an 327 eng. that was just built for this season. when we went to start it the # 7 cyl. is back firing through the #7 injector tube.  we checked for bad wires, cracked mag. cap, checked valve springs and rocker arms for anything broken or loose also re adjusted the valves.still popping through the #7 inj. tube. this happens mostly at idle. we even checked for vac. leaks.any ideas before we pull manifold and head off. we also did a leak down test and that didn't show us any problems.  we can only try going though all that we checked again. but were hoping for some fresh ideas. Thanks Mike

3

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Safety equipment...

« on: March 18, 2018, 01:54:25 PM »

before looking at what you should buy safety wise you need to figure out what type of vehicle. your going to be running. if its a stocker then you don't need a sfi 15 suit. all tracks require safety equipment except maybe outlaw ones. your best bet is to either call your div. director or buy a rule book. both can tell you what you will need. Good luck

4

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: offset grind crankshaft

« on: September 23, 2016, 12:44:46 PM »

hey guys thanks for all your advice. it's been very helpful. everyone voiced there opion for both issues stroking or over boring. I will need to figure out in my mind which way to go. the cost is a part of my discion but trying to find forged alum. pistons and reconditioning my stock rods and bush them for floater there really isn't that much of a difference. i still need to find adj. rocker arms. which no one has except to custom make them. so the whole build is going to be costly either way i decide to go. If the mtr. was going into a street rod or hot rod. it would be a no brainer. but i do plan on racing this car and the chassis is already cert, to 7.50.  so i guess it back to the work shop to figure out the pros and cons of each way.  again thank you all for all your help and support. i will let you all know what i decided.  every one keep the nostalgia sport going. memories are hard to lose and we need to just keep on playing. Thanks again Mike

5

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: offset grind crankshaft

« on: September 22, 2016, 01:43:51 PM »

i been in touch with tony. he has been very helpful. but my question is should i go ahead and do the offset grind and whatever goes with that comb. or just bore the shxxx out of it and be done. will i gain that much hp offset grind. over over bore and have 4oo plus ci. getting the parts is not the problem.

6

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / offset grind crankshaft

« on: September 21, 2016, 09:05:45 AM »

Hi, Matt, I recently posted a question pertaining to my 394 olds crankshaft as far as, anyone on the forum recommending a good reliable shop to do an offset grind to my crankshaft. the shop that i had sent it to has had it for over a year and never touched it. I recently went to that shop and picked it up undone and untouched. This gives me time to re-think my plans for building this mtr. My question to you is what will i Stand to gain if i decide to offset grind this crank. I can only stroke it up about .260 That would bring my new stroke from 3.690 to 3.950 .   What other things are involved if i was to do this. I understand the throws need to be cut down because of the bal. it would need to be checked for straightness and it would need to be nitride for hardness.  do you have any idea what the cost would be and would i really gain much in hp and performance. My new thought is to just keep the stock stroke. Bore the block to around .120  use dome pistons for more compression rebuild the mtr. the heads are fairly stock use in 2.020 intake and 1.700 ext.  and be done with it. I am running hilborn fi and a power glide trans.in a #1800 car. The car is being build as a  120" wb fed running in nostalgia racing, very limited use. Something to enjoy and have some fun. Maybe you can help me in which direction i should go. Thank you and will be waiting for your reply. Thanks again Mike

7

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: crank shaft work

« on: September 16, 2016, 01:32:48 PM »

hi guys, thank you for all your and. and info. pertaining about my crankshaft.  I went there today and picked it up un done and now i will have time to re think the direction i want to go. again thanks for your support. mike

8

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: crank shaft work

« on: September 11, 2016, 05:26:23 AM »

thanks for your reply. calif. is a bit to far but i will keep it in mind. thanks again mike

9

Front Engine Dragsters / crank shaft work

« on: September 10, 2016, 09:24:01 AM »

hi guys, I'm trying to find a crankshaft shop in or around the conn. area to have my shaft off set ground and cut. i have it with someone now but he had it for over a year and hasn't worked on it yet. i really need to find some one else that i can rely on. tired of waiting. thanks mike

10

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / finding photos

« on: May 28, 2016, 08:23:25 AM »

hi glen, I remember awhile ago that we were able to view photos of members cars etc. there were like 6 pages of them. Im trying to find those pages but can't seem to do so. can you help me out.

11

Wanted to sell / fe comp.. coupe dragster

« on: September 25, 2015, 02:27:36 PM »

Hi, My name is Mike and i'm a member of the fed.org   I am selling my FED anglia bodied comp. coupe dragster. Chassis is based off a Chassis Research k-88 style chassis, Updates have been met to meet todays NHRA 7.50 et. and slower class. Chassis has been cert. and stamped for these specs.  Chassis is built from mild steel with a  5 point cage and 120" wb. along with a 1940 ford front axle and spring.( To keep up with the nostalgia look.) front wheels are 19" wire, and rear wheels are 15x10x5" bc american racing wheel slots. Rear end is an early olds with strange 35 spline axles and spool with drum brakes. Wilwood master with wilwood brake pedal. brakes are plumbed and ready with ss lines. alum. seat and body panels along with parachute mount and also wheelie bar. car is 95% wired and new gauges, switches,relays and fuse block installed. Car also has a 1948 steel body anglia mounted to chassis which can be removed easily. Quarter pro 2 speed shifter along with an elect. solenoid also a chassis research butterfly steering wheel. Car can be used as either a fed or put body on and run comp. coupe class.This car is also set up for an early 1959 olds mtr. with a power glide trans. I'm asking $4000.00  firm last offer for just the rolling chassis as it is. no mtr. or trans.  This is a project car that needs very little to complete.   a winter project and be racing by next season. If interested call me at 845-264-1517 I live in the up state area of ny.12570   There are pictures on this site for you to view, i am having problems trying to send photos at this present time. so again if interested call me and i can send you additional photos. Thanks for looking hope to hear from you. Thanks again

12

Wanted to sell / 1960;s Rollie Linblad Chassis with fiberglass 23t body

« on: February 13, 2015, 11:46:39 AM »

Selling my 1960s Rollie Linblad Chassis 23 t . Car has early olds/pont. rear with 40 spline axle and spool.  Air Heart rear Disc brakes,  P&S Steering Box along with hand controlled master cylinder,  16x12 Halibrand Mag. rear wheels Cryts 12 spoke mag. front wheels,  Chrome tube front axle with coil over shocks,  4 Gal. Moon gas tank,  old style parachute display only.  This car was built for a fellow from Conn. Lou Allieveos by Rollie Linblad.  Lou ran this car at Dover and Conn. drag way. plus many other tracks. This car also comes with a complete 484/ 392 Donavon Alum. block.  Mondello steel heads ported and race ready.
Mtr. has Engle roller cam, Velasco stroker crankshaft, Venolia Rods and pistons,  6:71 Mag. supercharger with M/T manifold, 4 port hilborn injectors with hilborn scoop, Frankinstien style magnetto, donavon gear drive, crower 2 disc. titanium clutch, Lenco 3 speed alum. standard style trans. with mag. case reversa, air shifter buttons , air lines and solenoids.co/2 bottle and bracket.Mtr. is complete and ready to fire up for your cackle fest.Own a piece of history, for further details call Joe @  845-392-7677  $25.000 for all or will separate. Please no tire kickers. Having trouble sending photos.when you call i will e mail you photos.

13

Front Engine Dragsters / hoses for burn down breathers

« on: July 29, 2014, 02:10:57 PM »

i'm looking for hoses that i can use on my burn down breathers. they need to be 1.125 id x 1.250 od.  i need roughly 6-8ft. maybe someone has some or info. on where to get some. i really didn't want not use the flat hose. Thanks Mike

14

Front Engine Dragsters / 2 speed shifter

« on: May 16, 2014, 01:06:58 PM »

Hi, Looking for info. on obtaining a 2 speed rear exit elec. shifter for my fed with a power glide trans. want something small narrow and completely one handed operation. I plan on mounting this shifter to the side of my chassis not on or over the rear end. Looking for names of manufactures who i can contact. any help. tci  hurst etc. are to big. Thanks Mike

15

Wanted to sell / Re: Steering box, injector, M/T mag case(olds)LOTS MORE...LOOK

« on: March 23, 2014, 01:25:47 PM »

i am building early 394 olds can use a set of adjustable rocker arms if you have them in your small box of parts thanks mike