Awesome job, must be so satisfying to seeing reach this stage. I have enjoyed following along with your story so far. I have a saying i use regularly - "The only silly question is the one not asked" so keep asking those questions
With .036 Noz & 0.064 MPB you will be 0.009 richer on the MBP than you were with .026 Noz & 0.054 MBP. To put the same amount of fuel to the motor you would need 0.075 MBP. The down side to the .036 Noz will be the drop in fuel pressure.
My old FED had a push hand brake, current FED foot brake. I prefer the hand brake, like TFF I found staging easier. The hand brake was also better when loading/unloading. I have thought about adding a handle and leaving the pedal.
We had an issue where the numbers didn't add up RPM v MPH, when we we reverse calculated the tire size, they were an inch & half taller than what he tire was marked. We recalculated the gear ratio using the larger diameter, replaced the gear set with the new ratio and the MPH & RPM dead on. Gregm784, According to the Wallace calculators your tyres are growing to 101.096" or 32.18" dia @ 179 mph
We run Stack Injection on the 392 and add M2 to the methanol and must say even with extended periods between races very little maintenance required. When I had my old 6cyl car with SU carbs on methanol we just turned the pump on to fill the bowls when it went on the trailer and didn't touch them. Mind you the longest break between races in those days was probably a month.
Fireball, You could argue in a round about way it is killing the positive. It made no sense to me to have live cable going past the flywheel area so cutting it off at the battery was the solution.
Hi Lynn, The Master Kill Switch is on the negative battery cable and mounted at the back of the car next to the tail light. The drivers kill switch is in the drivers switch panel and supplies the negative for the solenoid and is grounded independently of the Main Kill Switch. Both must be closed for any power to to go past the solenoid. When both are closed the positive battery cable to the starter is live, all other fused small positive wires draw form the starter. The only live wire to the back of the car is for the tail light and works independently of the drivers kill so you can't accidently turn if off.
I added the wiring diagram to my previous post in the original thread for you. Tried replying and was getting an error message. Anyways hope the diagram answers your questions. Cheers
Hi Lynn, I added the wiring diagram to my previous post for you. Tried replying and was getting an error message. Anyways hope the diagram answers your questions. Cheers
Hi Lynn, Hopefully I have been able to attach the wiring diagram. The Master Kill Switch is on the negative battery cable and mounted at the back of the car next to the tail light. The drivers kill switch is in the drivers switch panel and supplies the negative for the solenoid and is grounded independently of the Main Kill Switch. Both must be closed for any power to to go past the solenoid. When both are closed the positive battery cable to the starter is live, all other fused small positive wires draw form the starter. The only live wire to the back of the car is for the tail light and works independently of the drivers kill so you can't accidently turn if off.
When the FED I drive was purchased it had a Master kill switch on the back, but it is on the negative side with the battery forward of the engine . We installed a constant flow solenoid right next to the battery with an aircraft style on/off with the driver. Master Kill key on gives negative, switch closes the solenoid which then powers up the car, tach light comes on to tell me it's powered up. Hit the master kill or drivers switch and no power right at the battery.
We are about to fit new tyres on the Halibrands we have, obviously we don't want to use bead screws, any suggestions to help limit tyre slip on the rim. Thanks