FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: voxnut on February 18, 2014, 09:23:48 AM
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Hi All-
I was wondering if there are any rules that state the seat pan needs to be mounted completely flush with the frame rails? The reason I ask is because with the layout of my dragster, my calves rest on the axle, rather than the crook of my knee, which complicates mounting pedals. What I was hoping to do is move the seat bottom forward 4 inches. This would put me in a slightly more reclining position, but my legs would line up correctly. The top of the seat would still be flush to the top rail, and the bottom would still be flush to the bottom rail at the sides, just not the rear.
If this is not allowed, then perhaps I can build an aluminum insert welded inside the seat pan that will accomplish the same thing.
Thanks for your time,
Dean
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Dean,
what you are proposing is totally legitimate as long as the seat is securely mounted.
Roo
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Perfect! Thanks for the speedy reply. Will weld dzus tabs on the bottom frame rail to secure the lower portion of the seat.
Thanks again,
Dean
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any chance you post some pics of you're set up please ? I have the same issue, my pedals ended up high and I'll need to build in a raised floorpan to assist getting in and out of the car. Think it's because I'm using a 33in tire.
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You can make getting out of the car easier by adding "pins" (5/8" tubing) at the windshield hight so your arms put pressure on the pins instead of the body/windshield while climbing out, Make them about 4" long and offset to the outer edge of the front hoop.
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thanks yes I plan to add some bars, the problem is, once I stand up (on the (bottom cross rails) my feet are almost trapped under the trans pan and pedals (shorty glide). Same when I get in, I can't fall back into my seat ,my legs don't break over the axle. With a raised "floor board" my legs would be free
I should add I'm building a very small car, 18.5in wide shoulder hoop, 138in wheelbase, shorty glide, SBC trying to get it to look like a 63-64 Jnr Fuel car.
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Our 138" car, really small and hard to get into when added the front hoop, should have moved the cowel foward another 3"
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car looks great, really helpful to give me an idea of the proportions of mine, it's been a bare chassis for 2 years.
We did end up moving the cowl forward also, found that once you stood up, there was no room to lift your legs out. I considered the cowl blister / bubbles too but didn't need them in the end as my cowl is less rounded and the pedal fitted under it.
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My car is 135" wheelbase, all new tubing, and in order to give the front hoop a period layback, I had Brian add 4" behind the rear axle- which is what is putting my legs in the position they are with the seat pan flush against the chassis uprights. Over the weekend I replaced the tube under the seat pan with flat bar stock, flush with the bottom frame rail and cut the bottom of the seat out, since the pan protruded lower than the frame rail.
There is plenty of headroom, so the seat pan will end up being about 2" higher, and then I'll move the bottom of the seat 4" forward to put my legs in the correct position. With my car, I still think having the shoulder hoop farther back, gives my torso the extra room and getting in and out should still be pretty easy. I can "hook" the back of my arms on the front of the cage and lift myself out enough to just put my feet on the axle to get out. Granted, I haven't done this with a full suit on yet (I don't have one) so we'll see as I go. I'll post a cockpit shot once I get it sorted, but here's a couple shots of the car itself under construction.
Dean
p.s. Bruce- bitchin' car! Is this the one you told me you guys got bored with?
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/voxnut/rocinante10-6-2.jpg)
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/voxnut/rocinante10-6.jpg)
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No--- Dave got to FAT ;D
What had happened was that NHRA came up with the chassie spec deal and the lower framerails were 1", It was a round back chassie and thru Daves head foward out of the cage too far. It was just eaiser to build a new car then to tear this one up to make changes. Would love to find it again, went upstate Calif and have never seen or heard anything about it. Since Cacklefest, and I know the original builder and owner, I would like it back unless its really been hacked
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Hi All-
I was wondering if there are any rules that state the seat pan needs to be mounted completely flush with the frame rails? The reason I ask is because with the layout of my dragster, my calves rest on the axle, rather than the crook of my knee, which complicates mounting pedals. What I was hoping to do is move the seat bottom forward 4 inches. This would put me in a slightly more reclining position, but my legs would line up correctly. The top of the seat would still be flush to the top rail, and the bottom would still be flush to the bottom rail at the sides, just not the rear.
If this is not allowed, then perhaps I can build an aluminum insert welded inside the seat pan that will accomplish the same thing.
Thanks for your time,
Dean
as the other guy mentioned what you are wanting to do is tottaly fine. I would only suggest that you might wanna use some small tube or round stock , 3/8-1/2 and place it to go from the frame to where the seat will be, just to give it some bracing in filling in the gap you will create from moving the seat away from the frame rail. it will help keep the drus holes from elongating due to being the only thing holding the seat in postion during accel-deceleration
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My car is 135" wheelbase, all new tubing, and in order to give the front hoop a period layback, I had Brian add 4" behind the rear axle- which is what is putting my legs in the position they are with the seat pan flush against the chassis uprights. Over the weekend I replaced the tube under the seat pan with flat bar stock, flush with the bottom frame rail and cut the bottom of the seat out, since the pan protruded lower than the frame rail.
There is plenty of headroom, so the seat pan will end up being about 2" higher, and then I'll move the bottom of the seat 4" forward to put my legs in the correct position. With my car, I still think having the shoulder hoop farther back, gives my torso the extra room and getting in and out should still be pretty easy. I can "hook" the back of my arms on the front of the cage and lift myself out enough to just put my feet on the axle to get out. Granted, I haven't done this with a full suit on yet (I don't have one) so we'll see as I go. I'll post a cockpit shot once I get it sorted, but here's a couple shots of the car itself under construction.
Dean
p.s. Bruce- bitchin' car! Is this the one you told me you guys got bored with?
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/voxnut/rocinante10-6-2.jpg)
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/voxnut/rocinante10-6.jpg)
your cars beautifully proportioned, quite similar to mine, although I thiny my front raise angle higher and my cage isn't so leaned back. I'm also running a bigger tire.
What you decribe in terms of your seat is very simialr to how my altered was. It had an aluminium bucket seat suspended on dzus's but had a 5" wide flat flexible steel strap going from the top rail to the seat crossmember. Very comfortable, however I was unlucky enough to get out of shape at about 150 in the traps once, rear end started bouncing and it pitched side to side, upshot was the back wheels bounced nearly 3ft off the ground trying to get it stopped. I did lot of damage to the car, chassit, motorplate, trans, belly pan, buckled wheels and bent a 35 spline shaft, but also hurt my back because of the angle I was laying at in the car, effectivley dropped me on my back. If I were to build a car in that position, I'd use a poured seat insert to support some of the void areas around my lower back. The way I have mine now, my butts right back and my spines straight, means I sit a little higher in the cage but it's still comfortable, just a pain to get out of in a hurry.
The firesuit deal is another complication. A -15 or 20 in these cars is hard work unless you get an expensive Simpson lightweight suit. I struggled with an RJS -15 suit for 3 season that was very bulky, very stiff and just made getting in and out of my car a chore, and I'm only 5ft 11" and 14st. I found I had to change alot of controls in the altered once I sat in it with a suit. The folds of the suit caught on various things,you could almost deploy the chute whilst getting out so I moved the lever up onto the cage.
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i watched a lot of drivers of FEDs at the track climbing in and out of there cars and wondered how i could get my old ,fat carcass in and out of one if i built one,,,, solution i hinged the top of the body at the motor plate, 2 pull tabs and its open, in and out in seconds,,havent seen one like it but i can tell you it is super easy to manuver
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Another option to consider is mounting the pedals up a little higher and using foot rests to take the weight off of you calves. While its nice to have the backs of your knees over the rear end, it's not mandatory. In the event of a crash, you don't want a modified seat collapsing. If you do modify the seat, support it with a frame of some kind.
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Great looking digger Voxnut. After seeing some of King Chassis' cars (including yours) I pulled the trigger....Brian is about halfway finished on my new chassis. I can't wait to get it.
Hey Up in Smoke, any chance that you could post some pictures of your hinged top along with the pull pins?
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Get a kit and do a pour in seat that will expand to fit your back and sides.
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i am getting it out of the trailer this week , i will take some pics, we used cabinet door hinges so the hood would clear the motor plate when raised, slightly shifting up as well as forward so it wont pinch.we use two bungy straps with the balls on them and just loop them around a pin on each side. by doing it this way we built the steering shaft structure to make handles topull you out as well to aid in getting in...not to mention that when i need to work on anything from the motor plate back, all i have to do is raise the hood
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I have a seat kit for sale--bought WAY too big a pour kit--have more than half left for a deal--call me 794 244 6649 It was the best $$ I spent on my entire car far as comfort and safety--
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I have a seat kit for sale--bought WAY too big a pour kit--have more than half left for a deal--call me 794 244 6649 It was the best $$ I spent on my entire car far as comfort and safety--
Good move Dave. As you obviously found out, the Cen-Pen car really does need a seat pour package to support your lower back due to the seat/rear end configuration.
Roo
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I have a seat kit for sale--bought WAY too big a pour kit--have more than half left for a deal--call me 794 244 6649 It was the best $$ I spent on my entire car far as comfort and safety--
PM me with the info and price on the left over seat kit please. Thanks. George
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I've had two back operations so it wasn't even an option for me. I HAD to have a poured seat. Mine was done at Neil and Parks with a full suit, Hans and Helmet on. The poured seat is so comfortable that I can fall asleep in the cockpit. Highly recommended.
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It did not take much to make big difference--the lower back support made it worthwhile--The actual seat "bottom" on mine was odd shaped but feels GREAT!
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