FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: mfp-66 on November 24, 2013, 01:15:12 PM
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came up my own version of a tube type shifter out of scrap i had lying about the garage.
used a section of 80's mustang column to provide the outer and inner parts
used the double d section as well as it matching outer section
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsda68f01e.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsda68f01e.jpg.html)
on the inner section i welded a small section of square bar. this will be the reverse lock out
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse76ca708.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse76ca708.jpg.html)
i cut a corresponding slot in the outer tube for the square bar to slide in to
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa9c3562e.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa9c3562e.jpg.html)
welded on an end plate that mounts a spring loaded lever
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse2fceda9.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse2fceda9.jpg.html)
the lever stops the shifter pulling into reverse
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps91c2892c.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps91c2892c.jpg.html)
slotted the end to fit a ball joint. welded it to the column bracket on the top of the axle case
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps50d7ca9d.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps50d7ca9d.jpg.html)
using tube to connect shifter to bracket on the box with ball joints at either end
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps07ff8af5.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps07ff8af5.jpg.html)
the cockpit end will have a shift knob fitted
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9303aecd.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps9303aecd.jpg.html)
still not completely finished but it seems to work OK. does require both hands to select reverse but i can live with that
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Built one myself using two pieces of moly tubing and seems to work great weighs less than lb.Well until I added the shift solenoid.
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How is the neutral safety switch installed?
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What prevents the shifler from going from low to neutral? The detents inside the trans are not enuff because one does not have the same FEELING wearing gloves and the excitment of the race itself.
I think it is great that people want to build things and show inginuity, I prefer to use a B&M ratchet shifter mounted to the trans and the control levers mounted to the housing. By being a ratchet the control lever is always at the same possission and no mater how hard one hits or pulls it --it will only move one section at a time so one does not have to think about detent possission.
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How is the neutral safety switch installed?
Mount the switch at the trans end, like Ford style.
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I was thinking of mounting the neutral switch on the side with a hole in the outer sleeve, the inner will have a dimple when the shifter is in the neutral position
The only shift during the race is 1st to 2nd which is just a simple push on the knob
Neutral to 1st will be done when I need to pull up to the tree so should have time to make sure it's in the right gear. If I do have an issue I can fit a spring detent ball.
Hope this makes sense ( it did in my head before I tried to write it)
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So your shift pattern is P--R-N-1(low)-2(high) and not P--R-N-2(high)-1(low)
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P-R-N-1-2
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On mine you have to twist it to go to netural 1st to second is just straight slot.Twist and push forward for netural,twist again push forward for reverse twist oppisite and push while using foot assist that mount on trans for park.If I have to I can add flip lever for lockout.Not cocerned about neutral safety switch never had one and never been asked by tech about it.
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With my car I do the burn out in High gear and then as it comes down I kick it into "N" and roll out the rest of the way. Hit the lockout and then put it into reverse, back up and then bring it into low gear. Your way you will either have to burn out in low gear to get it into "N" after the BO or pass thru low after a high gear BO to get it into "N". About every car out here runs L-H-N-R pattern, but what ever way you are most comfortable with.
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with mine you can have p-r-n 1-2 or p-r-n-2-1 the pattern is determined by valve body and trans linkage not shifter inn this case. Mine will be p r n 2 1 so I caN USE SHIFT SOLENOD for 1-2 shift. For burn out Ill just push it into 2nd and hammer it,stop tist push twist push and will be in reverse.
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I run a T400 with reverse pattern P R N 1 2 3 We don't even try to hit N till after the car is stopped. Burnout's are in 3 or high gear, never an issue.
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here my shifter, a perry shifter, powerglide, i just bump it and shift up... and its all alum,
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Neil and Parks makes a real neat inline shifter that can even be shifted by a button.
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N & P shifter: http://www.neilparks.com/chassis/shifters.htm
(http://www.neilparks.com/chassis/tubestyleshifter1.jpg)
(http://www.neilparks.com/chassis/tubestyleshifter2.jpg)
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Same basic idea.If parks would put better pics on site i would have had easier time designing mine. I got the basic function of it figured out from the pics and worked out rest