FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: FED1965 on February 27, 2016, 09:28:04 PM
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(http://)Hi everyone. I am just starting the process of building a period correct JR Fuel car that has to be period correct to 1965-67 as much as possible. I am going to build it approx 150' wheelbase with a period correct 3 pt cage. I don't expect to go that fast I just want it to look the part and smoke the tires a lot. I will be running a 283 or 302" Chevrolet with a Hilborn on Alcohol. I am going to run direct drive. I have the 1966 Lakewood explosion can and an old shaft with the bearing that fits into the center of the can-it was used on an old Altered from where I live in 1966-70. My question is where do I go to get the stuff I need to install an "in and out box" or disconnect for the driveline. I absolutely WILL NOT run an automatic and do not really want a reverser but would consider one as they did not come out till 69. I don't want to run a 3 speed with low gear removed either. I want this this to pretty much be bang on for 1965-67. Any help would be appreciated. Also looking for period correct rear wheels, steering box and wheel, etc etc. Any parts will be much appreciated-I should have started this project 20 years ago when parts were cheaper! I live close to the US border so I can have stuff shipped to North Dakota. I would like to get this direct drive thing sorted out first though. Phone number is 204 250 7123. Thanks Adam. The pic is pretty much exactly what it will look like when it's finished. I am really picky about the cage, chassis, rear end type, front suspension, etc. ANY old fire masks, etc. Much appreciated!
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My pal Danny Sanderlin has some real mag wheels he will sell reasonable--he is in NC email me dusterdave173@gmail.com and I will get you his info--Jon Hansen/ hansen wheel buys every vintage front wheel he can get and usually has some on hand --he is on this board and in Calif Hansen Wheel
Bitchin looking dragster I hope you nail it! Welcome
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Talk with Keith (Roo Man http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=6 ) or dreracecar http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=337
Copy and past this post in Roo Man's Room http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php/board,25.0.html
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(http://)Hi everyone. I am just starting the process of building a period correct JR Fuel car that has to be period correct to 1965-67 as much as possible. I am going to build it approx 150' wheelbase with a period correct 3 pt cage. I don't expect to go that fast I just want it to look the part and smoke the tires a lot. I will be running a 283 or 302" Chevrolet with a Hilborn on Alcohol. I am going to run direct drive. I have the 1966 Lakewood explosion can and an old shaft with the bearing that fits into the center of the can-it was used on an old Altered from where I live in 1966-70. My question is where do I go to get the stuff I need to install an "in and out box" or disconnect for the driveline. I absolutely WILL NOT run an automatic and do not really want a reverser but would consider one as they did not come out till 69. I don't want to run a 3 speed with low gear removed either. I want this this to pretty much be bang on for 1965-67. Any help would be appreciated. Also looking for period correct rear wheels, steering box and wheel, etc etc. Any parts will be much appreciated-I should have started this project 20 years ago when parts were cheaper! I live close to the US border so I can have stuff shipped to North Dakota. I would like to get this direct drive thing sorted out first though. Phone number is 204 250 7123. Thanks Adam. The pic is pretty much exactly what it will look like when it's finished. I am really picky about the cage, chassis, rear end type, front suspension, etc. ANY old fire masks, etc. Much appreciated!
First things first, welcome to the Front Engine Dragsters forum.
Second, that pictured Jr fuel car is indeed bitchin.
Third, FED1965, I like your style.
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(http://)Hi everyone. I am just starting the process of building a period correct JR Fuel car that has to be period correct to 1965-67 as much as possible. I am going to build it approx 150' wheelbase with a period correct 3 pt cage. I don't expect to go that fast I just want it to look the part and smoke the tires a lot. I will be running a 283 or 302" Chevrolet with a Hilborn on Alcohol. I am going to run direct drive. I have the 1966 Lakewood explosion can and an old shaft with the bearing that fits into the center of the can-it was used on an old Altered from where I live in 1966-70. My question is where do I go to get the stuff I need to install an "in and out box" or disconnect for the driveline. I absolutely WILL NOT run an automatic and do not really want a reverser but would consider one as they did not come out till 69. I don't want to run a 3 speed with low gear removed either. I want this this to pretty much be bang on for 1965-67. Any help would be appreciated. Also looking for period correct rear wheels, steering box and wheel, etc etc. Any parts will be much appreciated-I should have started this project 20 years ago when parts were cheaper! I live close to the US border so I can have stuff shipped to North Dakota. I would like to get this direct drive thing sorted out first though. Phone number is 204 250 7123. Thanks Adam. The pic is pretty much exactly what it will look like when it's finished. I am really picky about the cage, chassis, rear end type, front suspension, etc. ANY old fire masks, etc. Much appreciated!
First things first, welcome to the Front Engine Dragsters forum.
Second, that pictured Jr fuel car is indeed bitchin.
Third, FED1965, I like your style.
FYI I did not jump right on his case, I sent a PM welcoming him.
I also made the picture he posted his avatar
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Welcome to the pipe rack dark side:)
I've no direct drive parts but I'm only a couple hours south of you. Let me know If I can help.
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Check out my web site www.donrossfab.com I have two different types of disconnects Don Ross 214-327-7312
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Wow thanks very much guys for all the great advice and Don Ross that looks like just what I need! I will be giving you a call soon to discuss. I am so glad I found a site like this one! I will be in touch with a couple of you and keep everyone posted on the progress. I need to gather some parts before things really get rolling but it is time to do that so let's go!
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Check out my web site www.donrossfab.com I have two different types of disconnects Don Ross 214-327-7312
Perfect ! I love it. Love the Scorpion digger-Bobby Vodnik was the driver correct?
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(http://)Hi everyone. I am just starting the process of building a period correct JR Fuel car that has to be period correct to 1965-67 as much as possible. I am going to build it approx 150' wheelbase with a period correct 3 pt cage. I don't expect to go that fast I just want it to look the part and smoke the tires a lot. I will be running a 283 or 302" Chevrolet with a Hilborn on Alcohol. I am going to run direct drive. I have the 1966 Lakewood explosion can and an old shaft with the bearing that fits into the center of the can-it was used on an old Altered from where I live in 1966-70. My question is where do I go to get the stuff I need to install an "in and out box" or disconnect for the driveline. I absolutely WILL NOT run an automatic and do not really want a reverser but would consider one as they did not come out till 69. I don't want to run a 3 speed with low gear removed either. I want this this to pretty much be bang on for 1965-67. Any help would be appreciated. Also looking for period correct rear wheels, steering box and wheel, etc etc. Any parts will be much appreciated-I should have started this project 20 years ago when parts were cheaper! I live close to the US border so I can have stuff shipped to North Dakota. I would like to get this direct drive thing sorted out first though. Phone number is 204 250 7123. Thanks Adam. The pic is pretty much exactly what it will look like when it's finished. I am really picky about the cage, chassis, rear end type, front suspension, etc. ANY old fire masks, etc. Much appreciated!
First things first, welcome to the Front Engine Dragsters forum.
Second, that pictured Jr fuel car is indeed bitchin.
Third, FED1965, I like your style.
FYI I did not jump right on his case, I sent a PM welcoming him.
I also made the picture he posted his avatar
Thanks for the warm welcome Glenn! Makes a cold day here in Winnipeg a little better!
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Welcome to the pipe rack dark side:)
I've no direct drive parts but I'm only a couple hours south of you. Let me know If I can help.
Thanks man I appreciate it! Any leads on any Olds rear parts or complete units? Wheels, FT axle assembly etc.?
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PM sent
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I have a complete 57/64 Olds/ Pont rear end, Has Wilwood brakes, 35 spline strange axles & Spool, This is ready to run. If you are interested just send me a PM
Thanks & welcome to the FED board.
Van
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Unless the track owner is your Father-in-law, be prepared NOT to be able to run the car down the track in stated condition.
A consideration for the IN & OUT box is determined buy some factors
How far the motor is out from the rear end and is there one that will fit without changing that dimention
How many push starts and stationary idles you plan on doing that you for the most part just slide the couplers apart (zero cost) in the pits or at a show. If you dont get real stupid with the clutch assy, holding it in for a few minutes during a Cackle parade/push start Cackle should not present a problem. If its your desire to have one, then go for it. I think the one by the Hampsire Bros will fit a close coupled design (motor out 26")
If you desire is the look and not a restoration of an original documented car, then go with a Chrys 8 3/4 rear end. Physicly the same size as the '49 Olds and if you were to swap the rear covers, you could not really tell the difference and the parts avail is 100 to 1 and is a period piece because they were available back then. Any Olds parts you see advertised know are for the later "Big" Olds and will not be correct for your build. Low gear ratios came in ambulances and milk trucks and all but gone unless somebody is hoarding them.
Chassis componants are not that difficult to obtain, I can build a period correct front axle with original Anglia spindles and can even do a front torsion assy, But why even stop there and have Me or someone else build the basic car for you and you can finnish it.
Starting a project like this without a basic understanding of the parts involved and getting input from all directions thrown at you will prove to be difficult - costly - time consuming. If its because you cant afford a pro- build? but you can afford the mistakes?
Pick a single builder that will work with you to build what YOU want and start there
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I have a complete 57/64 Olds/ Pont rear end, Has Wilwood brakes, 35 spline strange axles & Spool, This is ready to run. If you are interested just send me a PM
Thanks & welcome to the FED board.
Van
Sorry, a completely wrong rear for this build, its the small 49 that was used (2/3's the size of that '57)
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If you want ultra lite nostalgia the old (small) Pontiac or better still the 8 3/4 Chrysler. I run the big 57- 64 Pontiac/Olds. Works great.
Fabcraft should have most any repair parts you may need for the big Pontiac. They also have a very good book on rebuilding.
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Leg room in a small car is the primary issue as to why the '49 housing
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for leg room my dads first dragster very early 60's car, had a Ford Lincoln Zephyr rear end in it "Banjo"
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dre I kind of like that rather big and heavy feeling in that area ;D You Know. Extra Iron! ;D
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When was the last time you heard of one comming apart and nailing a driver????? you cant.
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This accident happened before I started racing at the now closed Motion Raceway. Sheared mounting bolts that I have heard were questionable. A blown FED.
Chuck Stratman
Born: January 8, 1950
Died: July 1, 1972
Buried: Memorial Lawn Cemetery, Jacksonville, Illinois
Age: 22
Full Name: Charles Dewitt Stratman
Nickname:
Drag Strip: Motion Raceway, near Assumption, Illinois
Event:
Accident Date: July 1972
Car: front-engined T/F
Biographical: The car owners were Chuck Stratman and Dick Brodan from Jacksonville, Illinois. About 600 feet out from the starting line, the pinion broke, locking up the rear end. It sheared the bolts off that were holding the rear end to the chassis uprights. The rear end spun down and under Chuck. It drove him up into the cage which broke his neck.
Sources
Bob Gibson, e-mail communication with site administrator, Jan. 14 and Jan. 17, 2013
Social Security Death Index: Charles Stratman, b. Jan. 8, 1950, d. July 1972, SS # issued Illinois in 1966
Photos
Bob Gibson, e-mail communication with site administrator, Jan. 17, 2013
Brogdan-Stratman dragster at Motion Raceway, courtesy of Bob Gibson
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Common denominator was "Sheared mounting bolts" due to poor mounting, lack of bolts and lack of anti-rotation plate/mount and not the R&P comming out or the 3rd member exploding. At that point it did not matter what the rear end is or was. I the last 25 years of FE dragsters I have seen plenty of blown R&P's (Ford , Chrys, and Olds (big and small))and none/nothing has ever come out
Add to that list Jack Chrisman, Mike Sorokin, Rich Guasco, all injured from a total spin out
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I have a complete 57/64 Olds/ Pont rear end, Has Wilwood brakes, 35 spline strange axles & Spool, This is ready to run. If you are interested just send me a PM
Thanks & welcome to the FED board.
Van
Sorry, a completely wrong rear for this build, its the small 49 that was used (2/3's the size of that '57)
Bruce you don't need to be sorry for posting your opinion. I have owned quite a few FED's that saw time as J/F and the very early ones did have the early ?-56 Olds rear (junk) but most cars built in the stated 65 though 67 era had 8 3/4 and a couple I owned in the early 70's did have the larger 57-64 Olds. One car had the 55=57 Chevy, I can't even imagine a new car being built in 67 with the early Olds. The 8 3/4 would be my top choice for use with a little Chevy., but if cost is a factor ? Just like my FED I run now and built it with a Dana 60. I blew up to many 8 3/4 Chryslers but I don't run SBC's.
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Common denominator was "Sheared mounting bolts" due to poor mounting, lack of bolts and lack of anti-rotation plate/mount and not the R&P comming out or the 3rd member exploding. At that point it did not matter what the rear end is or was. I the last 25 years of FE dragsters I have seen plenty of blown R&P's (Ford , Chrys, and Olds (big and small))and none/nothing has ever come out
Add to that list Jack Chrisman, Mike Sorokin, Rich Guasco, all injured from a total spin out
I have never heard of a fatal accident from a Ring or pinion gear exiting the rear end assembly either. I shared the article to help prove problem installations can be bad news . I also took a look back to date the accident. I actually thought it was several years later.
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I was told at least one the gentlemen on that list were using alum. bolts with drilled centers. If that is indeed the case the ring and pinion would be the least of my rear worries.