FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: tcoupekyle on October 14, 2015, 07:36:23 AM
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We mocked up the motor and trans in my dragster. Now I'm completely lost on what to do about a Coupler. Running a shorty glide and a 9 inch the nine inch had the female side on it but I'm roughly 14 inches from the glide output to the 9 inch input. Somebody school me on what to do, please.
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Take a look at the mark Williams web site they have a driveshaft coupler that will work.
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1 - male coupler to PG out-put #40800
1 -female coupler X 32 or 16 spline #40640
1- male coupler X 32 or 16 spline #40780
1- correct length drive shaft x 32 0r 16 spline #41050 (XX)
2- 1 3/8" collars (get these for McMaster, $9 VS $31 ea)
4 - nice crisp $100 bills
one of the reasons I went with a full length PG, just had to buy a coupler for the trans
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Thank ya'll very very much
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Good news.Since your driveshaft will be around 12" it will be 135 not the 210 my 19" cost.Just placed order Monday,I was luky that I had the femaile couplers.Oh yea coupler for trans is 85 bucks also.
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I spent the money and did just as DRE suggested. Just make sure to get the measurement for the shaft correct and MW enterprises will sell it all to you. Well worth the money for this set up.
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But MW sells the lock collars for $32ea the same ones from Mcmaster are $9ea
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On three of my front-engine dragsters running SBC with a factory short tail housing PG into a 9" rear end, I purchased from Auto-Zone, one U-Joint that would fit the PG yoke and the 9" flange. With this setup, alignment is critical and assured by sliding the PG yoke back into the 9" yoke with no caps on and rotating the rear wheels. If perfectly aligned up, down, and sideways, it will not push the U-Joint forward when rotated. Put the U-bolts on the 9" flange and its good to go.
I was told that this would be good for rails running 7.50 and it worked like a charm for me. Cost five years ago for the U-joint was less than $15.
Another off-subject tip was to use a 70's VW Bug steering box. Great ratio, easy to mount, and the price was right.
Dave
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a couple notes about drive shafts
ujoints need angle to work properly. They should never be run on a straight line. (can explain if needed)
I would not want ujoints in my coupler on my FED. Weak links, and my legs are right there.
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How do I measure for the shaft?
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Measure from the front edge of the pinion coupler to the end of the output shaft
What that number?
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13 inches.
The other problem is the coupler on the pinion is 20 spline.
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(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/tcoupekyle/IMG_6245.jpg) (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/tcoupekyle/media/IMG_6245.jpg.html)
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Go to reply #2 and insert 12" as shaft lenght (replaceing XX)
The splines you are refering to are a standard for the coupler(s)
the 32 or 16 is the splines for the shaft itself and the spline for the ID of the couplers themselvs.
Now you may have to trim the shaft but there is plenty material to work with.
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Mark Williams also suggests that you have between 1/8" to 3/16" of end play.
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Thanks a lot guys.
Now for my next stupid question
What spline count should I buy? Is there any advantage to 16 spline? I would guess 32 is stronger
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32 ia stronger and I think more [popular now days.That said we ran 16 spline for years in TA/
FC with .92 60's and never had any kind of issue.In my FED I went with 16 but was economics,I had 4 couplers and just had to buy driveshaft.
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Coupler came in and it's going to fit thank ya'll very very much. I have to adjust the motor and rear some to get it to work but it's all going to fit thanks very much