FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: Oldschool on September 02, 2014, 09:23:20 PM
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Finally finished the car and will be testing next week.Here are some pictures.
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Interior
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Have some big races including Hot Rod Reunion,that I am looking forward to. I do have a new surfer scoop for sale if someone is looking for one.
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:D
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Congrats, nice work....what are your E.T. predictions?
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I like! Which HRR?
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Car looks great, good job and good luck.
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Car look great ,should be a blast. So how long on build and if under my 3 years you suck. Let us know how she runs,maybe have someone take picture of you w/o helmet on return road after your first pass. Not much more satisfing then first good pass on new car,well maybe first race won with new car.
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Know that feeling!!! Congrats what a beautiful ride!
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Get rid of that tab/bracket on the left hand side upper frame rail. Very dangerous in a crash. Do you also have a back end shot of the car?.Other than that ---have fun
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Great looking car ! Best of luck with it !
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The bracket for fuel shut off cable,which I could not use. If I go to mechanical fuel injection in the future,I would use. Maybe put padding around it. I am maybe looking at low 8 second,once I get used to and dialed in. Here is a picture of the back,minus wheelie bar. First full pass will be very exciting and I am sure my first words will be holy sh** . Can't wait :) HRR at Mo Kan Dragway,not big like the others,but fun.
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Cool looking car. What are you using for the throttle pedal assembly? Looks like cable comes out the back and loops around behind. I need sometning like it for my altered that I am working on.
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Then cut that bracket off and deal with the fuel shut off mount later ,besides creating a better design that wont injure you in a crash. and second whats up with the shoulder strap mount(s), cant figure out what you are doing there either. Just trying to save you some hassle in tech.
Second look , on your chute release arm pivot, turn the bolt around so that the threads are not hanging down in the drivers area, you want the drivers cockpit to be as smooth as possible,no snags or sharp impailers. Been building cars for 35 years trust me on this
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Congrats!!! Good looking car.Now let the fun begin!
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Then cut that bracket off and deal with the fuel shut off mount later ,besides creating a better design that wont injure you in a crash. and second whats up with the shoulder strap mount(s), cant figure out what you are doing there either. Just trying to save you some hassle in tech.
Second look , on your chute release arm pivot, turn the bolt around so that the threads are not hanging down in the drivers area, you want the drivers cockpit to be as smooth as possible,no snags or sharp impailers. Been building cars for 35 years trust me on this
Will always take good advice from the experience. I will make those changes and remove the bracket. The shoulder straps just long and not want excess inside. They are bolt good to chassis.
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Cool looking car. What are you using for the throttle pedal assembly? Looks like cable comes out the back and loops around behind. I need sometning like it for my altered that I am working on.
Here are a couple pictures. Cable bought from a company in California and made and install adjustable bracket. Looped around to have least resistance as possible.
I am looking at a different shifter,just have this one to get on the track. I like shifter on the side.
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Had to extend bracket here. This will be more secure,just trial fit.
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Ok I see it now, You can take a strip of thin steel sheet metal about1 1/2 x 4 , hold it with a pair of vise grips and heat it with a torch and cut the straps against a piece of wood to shorten them, the hot metal will seal the cut edge to keep it from fraying.
You need to put a ty-wrap around the locking arm for the cable clamp to prevent your foot from kicking it open as you climb in and out, there will come a time that the throttle will not work and that will be the cause.. Still dont like that clamp sticking out where it can bang your ankle or get your suit/shoes/boots hung up on. Most builders use a aluminum cable clamp that goes over the part with the ring slot and a 10-32 goes thru the clamp and registers on that slot and then into the frame bracket. simple-clean, out of the way, and only takes 30 sec to remove. person pref is to have a heim/rod end on the peddle instead of a quick disc, a lot stronger and will not brake or pop off. If you still want to use the QD then put a ty-wrap tight around the barrel so that the sleeve cannot slide back on you
Also cant see in the pic, but make sure the throttle peddle has a return spring on it also.
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Had to extend bracket here. This will be more secure,just trial fit.
Get rid of that block and bolt one of the lever style ( like you have at the other end)to the plate. Trim the threaded portion on the carb arm so that there are only 3 threads left exposed past the jam nut. Possistion the cable bracket on plate ,mark for 2 holes diagonaly (not across) drill for 3/16 and install. and dont forget to ty-wrap the arm closed on the clamp
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Ok, thanks dreracecar, good advice.
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While we are in critique mode, it looks as if you have a red jacket Morse cable for your chute release. While they work there is a better solution. All that you need is a small single wire cable (like a choke cable--remember them?). The genuine Morse is very stiff and can't be bent in a tight radius. The Control Cables unit that you are using for the throttle is the best for anything that requires a solid push or pull (throttle, fuel shut off etc) but again is overkill for the chute release which simply needs something to go through the loop on the pack to hold it closed over the pilot.
Roo
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Problem with useing the choke cable method is that (at least around here) is that the parts stores carry them but are wound soooo tight before they are packaged that the wire will not relax and straighten out so winds up being a curley mess.
Control Cable sells Chute cable assy. which are small and lightweight and get the job done, but if you have the red jacket working, nothing really that wrong with it except bulk
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Oldschool...
Car looks great but I would caution you about starting your FED career at Mokan. I love the place
but it is narrow, slick and short. No room for error. However...there is a big nostalgia race at Tulsa
coming up Sept. 19 & 20. First class race track, wide and long and tons of racers there to help if needed. We will be running in a bracket class just for FED,s and alterds. Good place to start. Also, Bruce
is right about unused brackets and snaggy things.
PS... Don't tell Carl Blanton I said any discouraging words. It's not too short for fast cars if you just
run the 1/8 mile. Narrow he can't fix.
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Af150, that sounds good, will check it out. I will get with Control cables and get a different cable for chute, good people.
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CC sells those alu cable clamps also. as far as the chute cable order a long one with swedged ends on the housing and have the swedge SS eyelets to the wire at each end, cut it in half,that way you have one and a spare for the cost of 1.
The SS eyes are simple and lite, otherwise it comes with a threaded end that you will have to thread on another heim to attach to the arm, complicated, heavy,cost more
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On my car I use the choke cable wire and run it inside a piece of plastic air brake line . I have my shifter on the right side of the car and it is very easy to get at . Bill