FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Spud Miller's Cave => Topic started by: GlennLever on August 11, 2014, 06:49:44 AM
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I had a new valve body put into the transmission and the Pro Brake in it is quicker than the one on the old valve body.
Up to now have never had a red light when running a Pro Tree, this weekend I had three, (2) .375's and a .380.
Need to slow the vehicle reaction time down with no electronics.
I'm going to try a longer throw button.
Suggestions?
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Ajustment nut behind steering wheel
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A long throw button with an adjustable collar/sleeve is a must-have.
Some valve bodies have a "hit control" knob on the back. That would help.
You could change how you're leaving the line (lower the RPM, etc.) since you have power to spare and could still hit your target ET.
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Call me tonight....
errrr.... im not sure how you can fix that...thats what I meant to say!!
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A long throw button with an adjustable collar/sleeve is a must-have.
Some valve bodies have a "hit control" knob on the back. That would help.
You could change how you're leaving the line (lower the RPM, etc.) since you have power to spare and could still hit your target ET.
Currently have a long sleeve around the trans brake button with the contact point right at the top. (home brewed invention by a good friend. Going to try a shorter collar around the button so I have to depress it further (his suggestion also).
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Glen, Biondo racing makes a nice long throw adjustable button . I am having the same problem .
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Jr Fuel racers that race the Heritage .40 ProTree and race Comp Elim on a .50 Full Tree need to slow the car down by a tenth. It's too tuff to get the driver to slow-up by a tenth, consistantly . So we use a trick transbrake selonoid with a selection of different valves and springs to switch between .4 Pro tree and .50 full tree, from Rossler. We just keep changing them for the best RT for the driver/car combo/ track. We also use a very long Biondo transbrake switch and use it for fine tuning. For our Div 7 race in Sonoma, we had the TB switch sleeve off.
Good Luck
Jon, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer/Hansen/Hook/Ramay JrFuel "B" and B/ND
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Jr Fuel racers that race the Heritage .40 ProTree and race Comp Elim on a .50 Full Tree need to slow the car down by a tenth. It's too tuff to get the driver to slow-up by a tenth, consistantly . So we use a trick transbrake selonoid with a selection of different valves and springs to switch between .4 Pro tree and .50 full tree, from Rossler. We just keep changing them for the best RT for the driver/car combo/ track. We also use a very long Biondo transbrake switch and use it for fine tuning. For our Div 7 race in Sonoma, we had the TB switch sleeve off.
Good Luck
Jon, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer/Hansen/Hook/Ramay JrFuel "B" and B/ND
Is this what you were talking about?
This (Patented) State of the Art Trans Brake Is Designed For Late Model Computer Controlled Overdrive Transmissions, This Trans Brake Can Be Installed With No Interference To The Normal Computer Shifts & Functions Of The Transmission.
(http://www.rosslertrans.com/transbrakecutout_edited-3.jpg)
I have a PowerGlide
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Ckeck this out http://drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/80760912/m/8327027266?r=8327027266#8327027266
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Ckeck this out http://drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/80760912/m/8327027266?r=8327027266#8327027266
Little large for mounting on the steering wheel. Will try the shorter collar first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SBTFJzew8E&feature=player_embedded
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You could get rid of the Pro Brake and go to a standard brake.