FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: Sidewinder on July 27, 2014, 12:54:26 PM
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Hello Guys:)
Just wander if you guys recycle Your engine oil from Your dragster? So far I change oil after 2-3 rounds, Depends on how much start-up's we do.
After a race I heat the oil to about 190-220 degrees, for about 15 min. Then all the water and Alky should evaporate. I run the warm Oils through a oilfilter, then add a couple of New quarts to about 6 quarts of recycled oil. Anybody els here do something like this?
Also, my current frontrunners are 2.75x19" Avon speedmasters. Look like Avon only has 3.00x19 now, but I really would like somthing skinny on my Borrani Wheels. Is there a good looking 2.75x19 out there?
/K
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I use new oil when I change my oil
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I always reuse my oil, but a little different. I run alky & nitro, I take my drain oil and pour it into a 55 gal drum & let it get near 3/4 full. I have a drain on the bottom & after 4 months, I drain out the nitro & alky. I set my pump about 4" from the bottom & pump out the oil & run it through a simple paint strainer & reuse it. I never reuse oil if the filter has metal in it. I think that if reusing oil after less that 5 min. run time is bad, I shouldn't have put it in the motor to begin with.
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Use Brad Penn oil
Will not emulsify with the alcohol and any floating on top will steam off warming it up. pull it out after 15 passes and still looks new
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Sidewinder, Here is my 2 cents on oil, and front tires ;
1'st of all I run my oil for the entire event, change it when we get home. We raced our JrFuel last week end in B/ND racing Comp at the Div 7 race in Sonoma Calif. We ran it 6 runs, 4 qualifying, and 2 elims. I guess I could re-used it but I've been dragracing dragsters since 1962, and have never re-used the oil. I don't know what kind and weight oil you use, but we use Motul 6100 10w-40, it's a synthetic blend. I have been told you don't want to run a full synthetic oil in an alky burning race engine, because synthetic oil and alky fuel are ester based products, so you will get too much dilution. The Motul has extra additives so unless I'm way rich, we don;t see any alky in the oil, [no baby puke]. Another team I help, drains their oil after each event also, and run the drain oil in their truck.
I know of a TAFC that uses a converter [ no clutch] and in order to get the idle low enough they run it very rich, they have to do that because the throttle plates can get stuck when adjusted that closed. So they cook their oil after every run to cook off the alky.
If you are running 50-60w oil you may want to set your clearances tighter and start using 10-40 oil. It takes power to push that heavy oil thru your motor. I only advise 50w oil if you are running nitro, mostly because you run larger quanity of fuel.
BTW, we have won 3 NHRA JrFuel Heritage Championships with my 10,000 SBC, and only broke one motor because of a bad trans, when the motor went to 11,500 rpm.
OK, now about skinny front tires, as far as I know Avon, or anyone else no longer makes a 2.75 or 3.00x19 rib tire. You no doubt want to replace your Avon's because they are cracking from age, and they might have stopped making that tire over 10 years ago. What I would recommend is sending me your 19" wheels and I can change them to 18" rims, then you could use new 2.50x18 rib tires. Ya I know the 18" will be a little shorter at 23" to 23.5" but you will be able to replace those tires. Plus it looks like, looking at your picture you can lower your front end and not have any clearance issues.
Feel free to call me with any questions, 800-624-3803, Hayden wheels,
Jon Hansen
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The way I tend to look at things is that when I ran my 410 sprint car around a 1/2 mile dirt track(ASCOT) the evening consisted of about 80 laps and 60 of the were full throttle (not idleing) which is about 40 miles.Taking into account that the engine is on and off the throttle and only taching 7500 I will cut that figure in half at 20 miles between oil changes. 16 passes in my dragster is 4 miles between changes. If your 8 qts of oil cannot stand up to that then you either have tune up - engine builder - or oil quality issues.
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I just look at as insurance
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Insurance from what? I would like to know
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Insurance from what? I would like to know
Peace of mind.
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Use Brad Penn oil
Will not emulsify with the alcohol and any floating on top will steam off warming it up. pull it out after 15 passes and still looks new
That Brad Penn oil is the best ! On a tip from you Bruce I started using it in my motor and the oil looks great not milkey at all !
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I also use Brad Penn
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Save some of that 2-3 pass oil and send it in for testing
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Thanks for Your replays guys:) Over here several of other racers tend to recycle their oil.
Bruce, as you say, we probably can run longer between change of oil. The engine Builder has done a Perfect job, the tune-up is a litle fat (safe side).
The oil is not very milky, but if you test it, you can feel it's less sticky. Other pro teams change oil more often. the price over here is about $10 for a quart. I use 8 Quarts of Kendall 20-50W(New) or 6 quarts of recycled 20-50W and add 2 With Nitro 70. The Nitro 70 has moore of the good stuff.
Brad Penn is something i will consider in the future:) And Bruce, as said, we change oil to be on the safe side. We do not run With a filter either.
By changing oil more frequent, we can also check if there is anything in the pan, monitoring:)
I think my local supplier has some 3.00x19 left. I really whant to stick With the Borranis:)
/K
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If you would have mentioned that little tidbit about not running a filter in the begining of all of this, I would have not wasted my time writing a response
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Sorry that I wasted Your time;/
/K
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I don't call my drain oil used, I call it experienced oil.
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We run an inline oil filter. If we suspect any problem, it's real easy to check the filter for metal.
I like Borrani's also, I have 17",18", 19" Borrani rims in stock.
On our JrFueler, I run 18" Borrani wheels with short side wall, 2.00x18, Bridgestone M/C racing tires.
The 2.00x18 tires are the same Dia as 2.50x17 , and they weigh only 8 lbs per wheel and tire, and with ceramic bearings have very low rotating weight, ala less HP to get and keep them spinning.
Any idea how old the 3.00x19 Avon's are ? You should be able to check the sidewalls for the week and year they were manufactured.
IE. 0807 = 8'th week of 2007. I'm interested in buying some from your supplier. jchansen60@gmail.com
Jon Hansen
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I don't call my drain oil used, I call it experienced oil.
Yes:) and quality too:):)
/K
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I change mine every year. :>)
don
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Ive saw several people cook it down in crock pots and reuse it..mainly to get the water off and that is all.
Why do you not run a filter?
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Totally T - oil filtering system not efficient design to start with on V8 ford fh. A few out there have said running the stock oil filter is like not running one at all. There’s a cavity cast in back of the block that oil is pumped into and then routed out (to front two mains, 3 cam bearings and timing gears/distributor, plus to rear main and fuel pump pushrod). Stock tappets receive oil from crankshaft slinging it around. No oil going upstairs like a pushrod engine. If this cavity could be modified, adding a 100 percent oil filtering system would be less challenging.
Majority of “drag race only” V8 ford fh engines I’ve seen run no oil filter. I used 4 quarts (oil pan capacity) and no oil filter same as K. He/she who selects this engine needs to be clever to have 100 percent oil filtered with how oil cavity operates, or be okay with partial filtering, or think of another solution… (i.e. no filter and change oil often/inspect) I’ve seen external oil pump setup, then easy to add oil filter for 100 percent filtering. DF
p.s. K, hope okay to interject, couldn’t resist adding comment for ford block, I know yours a french block "with improvements" which may prompt other reasons too : )
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Thanks DF, good explenation:) The French is mostly the same as the US Version. To make 100% filtering, one need to modify the Stock pump With and blank off some of the Stock passages. As you say we can also do external solution, and drysump would bee the Choice. But I don't like the idea on having more external lines and hoses. the vibrations on a dragster causes Things to come loose and breake more easy, and With a drysump, one will need another drive for it, don't want have another belt;) And it does not look vintage, just ugly;)
I have plugged the fuelpump pushrod hole, and we have great pressure, 40-50 psi on idle, and 100 psi on full throttle:) 8 quarts in the pan.
As you say, this is to be on the safe side. We have run this the last couple of years and, knock on Wood, no sign of exsessive vear:)
And Jon, the local supplier was out of the 3.00x19 Avon's, but he said they will get moore next season. So I whent on the web and found a supplier here in europe, that had them, approx. $200 for a pair, shipped delivered on my door:) Have also found another website that sells stuff for motorcycles. They even had ribbed 2.75x19, but the brand was unknown for me. I'm checking if they have a serious business:)
/K
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Got my new Avon 3.00x19" Friday:) Have also located 2.75x19" budget tires(ribbed). But has no speed rating;/
So Jon, check out these sites;
www.motorsykkeldekk.no
www.feked.com
Let me know what you think;)
/K