Technical > Matt Shaff's Engine Shop

Pulled threads on #3 main

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LZ:

--- Quote from: H.G. Wells on May 04, 2014, 07:16:43 PM ---Luke, thanks... I came here to bounce ideas and think outloud with some feedback.  If I was sure it was only one I would be fine with the heli coil and a good cleaning of the bare block. (no it was not new to me) but since I am worried about there being others putting it in a mill and being able to drill square and in line to do several is the best solution.  Won't know if others are bad till I blow it apart anyway, so might as well.  Sad part is there is a Bridgeport and a knock off copy sitting a few feet from this motor and neither are set up and ready to run. (they belong to the other brother)

Several of the head bolts have heli coils done by me from the last build, and all of the intakes have heli coils, but none of those torque to 110lbs.  I believe the time serts or other none wound inserts may be a touch better (I could be wrong, I have been wrong before, even today) this hole also only has about a half inch of threads because of the oil passage at the bottom. I believe I knew the answer when I started, just needed convincing.  Will find out tomorrow if one of the local machine shops can get to it anytime soon. If not I will run up next weekend and get dirty.

Not to prolong the drama, but just to complicate things, I am in San Antonio TX.  The motor is in OKC.  My brother blew up the motor in his boat and I am letting him use mine since I bent my chassis and am out till I decide what I want to be when I grow up.  I trust him to take it apart and take the block to the machinist, but I want to be the one that screws it back together. If it blows up in his boat after I put it together I am ok. If if blows up after he puts it together I may not be so forgiving.

--- End quote ---
Hi HG:
Should be in bed but fun talking race car
Everything will be fine am sure youll get it right. These things have a way of giving you indigestion don't they?? :o

The 110 torque on a H coil is no issue but as you say your subject to circumstance. Feel obligated to defend  Coils as they get a bad rap ;)
You have to watch the inserts also as they need a bit more real estate if you need to counter bore. This is also important to treading the thread a couple or more deep to prevent threaded hole mushrooming.

Ah San Antone.  a beautiful place. Loved Texas and the people we met. Were doing some work in Houston but I am not on that project anymore at the moment.
c ya dude
Luke

LZ:

--- Quote from: ricardo1967 on May 04, 2014, 07:18:01 PM ---
--- Quote from: LZ on May 04, 2014, 06:56:22 PM ---Ricardo:
Yes you have a hardened thread going into stainless steel, compared to Cast iron. The threads need to be lubricated  with a good quality lube to prevent galling.
--- End quote ---

Luke,
Thanks for sharing your experience, we appreciate it. I agree with you, a well installed Helicoil will be stronger that the parent metal thread (considering parent metal aluminum or cast iron, not alloy steels). In my case, both the original and the repaired threads were lubbed with ARP assy lube, but the cast iron thread is still smoother.

--- End quote ---

Hi Ricardo:
If you are feeling that chances are you have a problem with whoever knocked off the tang. Have seen many times where it was not done correctly and they twanged the bottom of the coil. In which case the coil is junk. It should be a smooth a silk.
 ;)
Thanks bud best to ya
I gotta get my butt to bed. Work in 5 hours YUK.
Luke

dreracecar:
Can you get another main cap to use as a drill guide??

H.G. Wells:
If I drill it myself, yes I think I can find a spare or at least use an aluminum sleeve in the one on it.

dreracecar:
Drilling and tapping it correctly is 80% of the job and using a drill guide is the only way to do correctly.

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