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How to make a FED
Lorbiecki:
Yup, everything! It isn't that hard. Just some simple tools...attached are pics of the tooling to make the ribs...Use 3003 or equiv. Plot the ribs size, cut the rib blanks, put them between the oak formers, clamp it in a vice and hammer it to shape with a soft blow hammer. Then use a rod to push the extruded material into the flutes in the rib blanks. That will keep them to shape. Just need to remember when you are riveting the structure together to hit the "high" spots of the rib.
The main tube is 1" dia 6061. The main supports go between two ribs that are spaced to accept the front support.
I can tell you from a crew member mishap that the structure is strong enough to support the weight of the front of the car when it fell onto a jack stand! Screwed up the wing but supported the car.
The outer aluminum was 5052 and the leading edge shape was formed by wrapping it onto itself (like a taco shell), taping the two loose edges together, and then pressing down on the folded edge with a 2X4. Just keep working it down until you get the nose radius you require.
Mark where the rivets go, drill and cleco, and then rivet away!
Lorbiecki:
And for kicks, here is the front axle assy. Yes, I made the spindles....Not too hard to do. You can also see the rack and pinion box. Simple system that I have used for years on junior dragsters and just upgraded it.
And I attached a pic of the Big Dollar fixture I built it on. Because of the small garage and because I did change tubing size from the engine forward, I just did the back half first. That way I didn't have to walk around 200 plus inches of tubing to get to the other side.
All the systems could be done in this state and then just glued on the front end when needed.
And note that the front end is bolted in place. This way, if there ever is any damage to it, I just unbolt it and replace it. I like things that are repairable with ease...
dreracecar:
If that is the finnished product, you missed a very important part of the wing/overhang.
Drop 1 (or both) side plate so it is 3" off the ground and paint it flat black
only the start beams are mounted at track level, all the other downtrack beams are 6" off the deck.
with the "blocker" 30" ahead of the spindel C/L you shorten the track lenght to 1318'
never polish the aluminum side plates as the sun can reflect the image and cancel the timer
MaggiFinn:
I am contemplating on building a front wing for this sole purpose. Once have but be dammned if i lose another race becouse of no overhang
wideopen231:
Glad to see I;m not alone in the I can build it all mentality. Great job.Car looks awsome(except the green). Bet your in for lot less cash plus the fun of building and fabricating it.Theres also that cool thing about watching folks when they ask who's______ and you answer I made it. Love it when they say man wish I could do that and they never tried.
Wish I was that far along. Congrat's.
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