Technical > Roo Man's Room
Modifying a chassis to meet spec
janjon:
I stand corrected, evidently, on the cert cost, see some recent references to $150, that's better than I thought...
denverflatheader:
janjon – actually depending on your situation, the chassis cert could cost more than $150. A comparable chassis cert for TAD would be $750, not sure but top fuel is probably more. Plus the nhra sfi tech can charge you mileage when he/she has to drive to your location. Imagine if the closest tech was 400 miles away from you… add the charge per mile to your/my $150. Most tracks have a sfi tech day, one way to bypass the mileage charge. DF
janjon:
My Div. director was in Conroe, TX last I checked, about 45 min away, so me dragging the carcass to him would be the way to go. My chassis won't cert anyway without the shoulder hoop replacement, which I'm not gonna do now anyway. Probably never, I could build an entirely new chassis for the same or less work with a better result.
rooman:
Andrew,
you may find that it will be easier and cheaper to build a new frame rather than trying to update that one. As mentioned most of the older cars are "O too thin" and looking at your photo I see that a lot of tubes will probably need to be upsized. Another thing is that the motor appears to be way back in the car and if you have to move it forward to get a transmission to fit that will open a whole new can of worms. Several chassis builders have kits available as well as blueprints and bends.
Roo
dreracecar:
What you have there is the beginnings of a cacklecar which does have good value "as is" to those that go that direction. Its not worth trying to update it if one has to replace 50% or more of the tubing and add more to whats left which happens to be really old tubing.
Frames are the easiest parts to build, its all the other crap that goes on them that takes time and money to do and since you have to do that anyway, just start off with a new frame and sell that one for someone to restore
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