Author Topic: Ford Flathead dragster build  (Read 37362 times)

Offline JeffV8

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #30 on: November 25, 2014, 11:45:21 AM »
I like it.

dreracecar

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #31 on: November 25, 2014, 12:16:46 PM »
what is the problem you have with "DOTES" that you have to be "ANTI", Some of my best freinds are "DOTES"

Offline andrewb

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #32 on: November 26, 2014, 06:49:54 AM »
what is the problem you have with "DOTES" that you have to be "ANTI", Some of my best freinds are "DOTES"

Your friends are Dotes or Dopes? LOL

Offline andrewb

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #33 on: December 11, 2014, 06:29:26 AM »
Woo Hoo! Camshaft finally arrived yesterday and it only took 6 months. I had Joe at Roto-Faze turn me a cam blank then shipped off to Jerry at Schneider Racing Cams. Told Jerry the purpose of the build and they ground out this 180 degree cam. Crankshaft should be here in a few week and I can get back to building the engine.

Andrew


Offline denverflatheader

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #34 on: December 13, 2014, 07:27:56 AM »
Neat camshaft, enjoyed seeing your pictures.  Recall you wanted more than 112 LS and the lobe design was in the think tank.  With special one-off heads you’re using, can understand your hesitance to add more radical lift, as it might require modifying the valve pocket (affecting optimum flow which you know works with those heads).  Guessing you can’t wait to put the new cam in and compare stock tappet to your mushrooms, be nice to know that information. 

You might also consider empirical test, set up the valve springs (using 185g) with 100 lbs on the seat, and turn cam over with a torque wrench (i.e. beam deflection/pointer style).  You would then know different lift rate has between stock tappets and mushrooms right away (maybe none, maybe more).  If it shows “much more” torque needed with the mushrooms, might make you think about your mushroom bushing's wear (for watching it).  Excellent Andrew, positive progress : )  Alan   


Offline andrewb

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #35 on: December 17, 2014, 06:26:15 AM »
Marry Christmas to me! The 180 degree (4.25" stroke) crank showed up on my doorstep yesterday courtesy of Moldex. The reason for the longer snout is to accommodate a pulleys for the supercharger, fuel pump, oil/vacuum pump, and crank support. In the one pic you can see it compared to an original Norden crank.

Andrew

Offline rooman

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #36 on: December 17, 2014, 09:51:33 AM »
What happened to the rest of the main bearings?    :)

Roo
Yeah, I am from the south--any further south and I would have been a bloody penguin.

Offline Paul New

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #37 on: December 17, 2014, 10:17:58 AM »
180 degree flathead crank won't that be hard on the mains?

Offline andrewb

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #38 on: December 17, 2014, 10:34:39 AM »
Mains are overrated and more than 3 is a waste  ::)
« Last Edit: December 17, 2014, 10:39:48 AM by andrewb »

Offline denverflatheader

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #39 on: December 18, 2014, 07:27:22 AM »
Enjoyed seeing your pictures.  Neat composition (old vs. new) really rare image.

Offline RailDog

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #40 on: December 31, 2014, 01:58:18 AM »
New to this board -- I've been following your build -- very nice

Thought you might like to see my front cover mod for Hilborn pump

Offline andrewb

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #41 on: January 05, 2015, 07:47:56 AM »
Nice mod RailDog. Did you drill/install a drive stud on the front of the cam?

Andrew

Offline RailDog

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Re: Ford Flathead dragster build
« Reply #42 on: January 05, 2015, 01:00:14 PM »
Yes -- cam snout was drilled for 7/16 fine thread allen bolt and a center made out of 7/16 bolt  was screwed into cam. Then cam put in block, Offy cover put on block and tapped with hammer to give center of drill hole. Then milled recess for pump flange using the center drilled hole.

Had to shave about .020 off cover surface to clear cam gear below distributer boss -- the offy covers have enough meat to just tap the 3 pump mounting bolt holes into the cover -- you have to rotate pump a little or use a clamp type coupler if you have a particular index position you want on the pump orientation.

Used allen bolt with a an washer under bolt head to set the pumpshaft end play.

I will probably use a 4 " pump extension on the new engine (blown) to clear the blower belts