Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
Rules on the seat pan in an FED?
tcarr:
--- Quote from: voxnut on February 18, 2014, 09:23:48 AM ---Hi All-
I was wondering if there are any rules that state the seat pan needs to be mounted completely flush with the frame rails? The reason I ask is because with the layout of my dragster, my calves rest on the axle, rather than the crook of my knee, which complicates mounting pedals. What I was hoping to do is move the seat bottom forward 4 inches. This would put me in a slightly more reclining position, but my legs would line up correctly. The top of the seat would still be flush to the top rail, and the bottom would still be flush to the bottom rail at the sides, just not the rear.
If this is not allowed, then perhaps I can build an aluminum insert welded inside the seat pan that will accomplish the same thing.
Thanks for your time,
Dean
--- End quote ---
as the other guy mentioned what you are wanting to do is tottaly fine. I would only suggest that you might wanna use some small tube or round stock , 3/8-1/2 and place it to go from the frame to where the seat will be, just to give it some bracing in filling in the gap you will create from moving the seat away from the frame rail. it will help keep the drus holes from elongating due to being the only thing holding the seat in postion during accel-deceleration
PSweeney:
--- Quote from: voxnut on February 20, 2014, 02:10:38 PM ---My car is 135" wheelbase, all new tubing, and in order to give the front hoop a period layback, I had Brian add 4" behind the rear axle- which is what is putting my legs in the position they are with the seat pan flush against the chassis uprights. Over the weekend I replaced the tube under the seat pan with flat bar stock, flush with the bottom frame rail and cut the bottom of the seat out, since the pan protruded lower than the frame rail.
There is plenty of headroom, so the seat pan will end up being about 2" higher, and then I'll move the bottom of the seat 4" forward to put my legs in the correct position. With my car, I still think having the shoulder hoop farther back, gives my torso the extra room and getting in and out should still be pretty easy. I can "hook" the back of my arms on the front of the cage and lift myself out enough to just put my feet on the axle to get out. Granted, I haven't done this with a full suit on yet (I don't have one) so we'll see as I go. I'll post a cockpit shot once I get it sorted, but here's a couple shots of the car itself under construction.
Dean
p.s. Bruce- bitchin' car! Is this the one you told me you guys got bored with?
--- End quote ---
your cars beautifully proportioned, quite similar to mine, although I thiny my front raise angle higher and my cage isn't so leaned back. I'm also running a bigger tire.
What you decribe in terms of your seat is very simialr to how my altered was. It had an aluminium bucket seat suspended on dzus's but had a 5" wide flat flexible steel strap going from the top rail to the seat crossmember. Very comfortable, however I was unlucky enough to get out of shape at about 150 in the traps once, rear end started bouncing and it pitched side to side, upshot was the back wheels bounced nearly 3ft off the ground trying to get it stopped. I did lot of damage to the car, chassit, motorplate, trans, belly pan, buckled wheels and bent a 35 spline shaft, but also hurt my back because of the angle I was laying at in the car, effectivley dropped me on my back. If I were to build a car in that position, I'd use a poured seat insert to support some of the void areas around my lower back. The way I have mine now, my butts right back and my spines straight, means I sit a little higher in the cage but it's still comfortable, just a pain to get out of in a hurry.
The firesuit deal is another complication. A -15 or 20 in these cars is hard work unless you get an expensive Simpson lightweight suit. I struggled with an RJS -15 suit for 3 season that was very bulky, very stiff and just made getting in and out of my car a chore, and I'm only 5ft 11" and 14st. I found I had to change alot of controls in the altered once I sat in it with a suit. The folds of the suit caught on various things,you could almost deploy the chute whilst getting out so I moved the lever up onto the cage.
up in smoke:
i watched a lot of drivers of FEDs at the track climbing in and out of there cars and wondered how i could get my old ,fat carcass in and out of one if i built one,,,, solution i hinged the top of the body at the motor plate, 2 pull tabs and its open, in and out in seconds,,havent seen one like it but i can tell you it is super easy to manuver
fuel749:
Another option to consider is mounting the pedals up a little higher and using foot rests to take the weight off of you calves. While its nice to have the backs of your knees over the rear end, it's not mandatory. In the event of a crash, you don't want a modified seat collapsing. If you do modify the seat, support it with a frame of some kind.
arush:
Great looking digger Voxnut. After seeing some of King Chassis' cars (including yours) I pulled the trigger....Brian is about halfway finished on my new chassis. I can't wait to get it.
Hey Up in Smoke, any chance that you could post some pictures of your hinged top along with the pull pins?
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