Technical > Roo Man's Room
wheelie bars
Keven:
We chose to go with single top bar and two on the bottom with a wide stance at the wheels. The tabs on the chassis are 1/4" thick with 3/8" grade 8 bolts, bars are 1 1/4" .065. Very stout and believe me we use them every pass, never had any issues with this set up.
George:
I depend on some flex in my wheelie bar setup. If they were too rigid the car would lift the front end, hit the bars and then drop the front and upset the car. Length, angles and pipe size will determine how the wheelie bar works, along with car balance/ballast.
rooman:
I use a three bar single wheel package with the single bar on the bottom where it is in tension. Weld clevis and 3/16" tab at the chassis end, about 6' from the frame to the wheel. Most of mine have 1.125" upper bars and 1.125/1.00 for the lower with the 1.125 on the chassis end and the 1.00 on the slider. I usually use the same McKinney adjuster as the big show guys as it can quickly be fine tuned on the start line without a wrench. As George noted some flex in the bar will stop the car shocking the chassis if it hits at the step.
Here is the same basic package on an altered.
Roo
GlennLever:
This is what Roo Man did on mine. It was done after the body had been built because I was going faster. I originally ran without one.
The first shot is actually at the same track, but at a different time.
The second is at our local track
ss4:
thanks for all the great input. so are the mounts single or double shear? hard to see in the photos
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