Author Topic: FIE Barrel Valves  (Read 6960 times)

Offline captndiet

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FIE Barrel Valves
« on: January 17, 2014, 09:58:32 PM »
Spud

Are your nitro barrel valves available?

Jeff

Offline Spud Miller

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Re: FIE Barrel Valves
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2014, 08:23:30 PM »

 Yup, I do have a few on the shelf and the optional components for them as well.

 Spud

 

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Offline gregm784

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Re: FIE Barrel Valves
« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2014, 09:06:45 AM »
Similar to EDB's valve right? 

WAY overkill for a blown alky small block though huh?
Greg
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Offline Spud Miller

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Re: FIE Barrel Valves
« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2014, 09:56:27 AM »

 Yup, Bru has one on his setup. It is indeed overkill for blown methanol and it's kinda spendy ($729 - $769 depending on the optional stuff chosen).

The main advantages:

1. Needle valve idle control (extremely high idle fuel pressure can be used and still control idle precisely)
2. Ability to turn OFF one set of nozzles after the leave
3. Warm up port w/anti-backflow internal checkvalve
4. Additional ports enable a bunch of plumbing options

 The needle would be nice for blown alcohol, but I can add one of those to a K-valve too a variety of different ways.

 Spud

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Offline captndiet

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Re: FIE Barrel Valves
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2014, 09:51:26 AM »
Spud

I believe you told me you ran 20# check-valve down nozzles on your car.

Does that mean they are non-aspirated?

Whose did you go with?

Jeff

Offline Paul New

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Re: FIE Barrel Valves
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2014, 10:14:24 AM »
I believe Spud made his own nozzle bodies

Offline Spud Miller

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Re: FIE Barrel Valves
« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2014, 10:52:17 AM »

 Yup, I made them and have a box of them on the shelf if anyone is interested.

 They are a 1/2"-20 thread (AN5) body and several inches of threads. If you have down nozzle heads, they'll screw right in. If not, you can drill and tap through into the intake port. Thread the bodies in tight and grind off the excess brass flush with the port wall. It leaves a .100" hole. They are meant to stay in the head so as not to screw up your flush grinding with the port.

 The top portion of the body accepts the standard Enderle-style nozzle jets and you should run an Enderle check-ball setup in them so gravity doesn't fill the cylinders with fuel for you. I do run a 20 PSI spring in them. They are non-aspirated. They could be aspirated with small holes, but would have to come out below the check ball. Not worth it in my opinion.

 Spud

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