Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters

Rear wheel width

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wideopen231:
Great info to have and some good tuning tips there Jon. Unlike jr fuel combos where quicker every past is important I am mainly concerned about every run being exactly the same.   The wider giving better 60' and being better for traction all around is what I can use.   My engine combo being  526 aluminum Hemi,glide w 6400 stall,3.90 to 4.10 gear. In 225" slipjoint chassis and hopefully stay around or below 1600 lbs ,can't afford a titanium show place but I do try to keep weight off anyway I can. 


   My plans are 15x14 wheels bead locks.Yea heavier but has to be worth the weight.Seems the lite weight preacher(Parks) has them and the canards.If Parks will run them with added weight I figure they have to out perform the weight cost. Plus I have a set of wheels that can be converted to them at half the cost of new bead locks,due to design of wheel 14 is as small as weld says they can cut them to.

 If that combo has something that is stupid about it let me know.New to FED and working towards getting setup dead on first time out,yea I know aren't we all.

JrFuel Hayden:
I believe Parks runs bead-locks because their motor combo makes less torque than other J/F cars and in order to keep the tire speed up so it doesn't pull the motor down out of the RPM range it needs to be, they run as low as 4 1/2 lbs of tire pressure. So with that kind of low pressure you'd need bead-locks.
Now about your combo; what kind of HP are you making ?  With your 526 I assume you are using a 8" or 9" converter, I also assume your 526 makes more torque than our 400 ci SBC and early iron Hemi, [ I just picked-up our 354 block from the machine shop] , so that's why you plan on running a 14" tire. With your 3.90-4.10 gears what kind of RPM are you thinking of running thru the 1/4 ? I also assume your 6400 stall is close to the RPM the "cam" comes on. I've seen many a combo where the stall is too low and the motor struggles to go from stall to where the cam is designed to work.
We have also learned that stiffer chassis deliver better ET's unless you are running Big Show Top Fuel. You might want to call Parks about chassis combo's and they have someone that can covert you wheels to bead-locks, maybe for less $.

Jon Hansen, 805-444-4489

rooman:
On the subject of converting wheels to bead locks I can get them done here in Indy for $950 a pair, double bead lock with black 12 point bolts. Stainless bolts run another $80.  (and they don't cut the original rim up with a cut off wheel like the guys at the NMCA etc events :) ). My guy says that he can do most Welds to about any width.

Roo

masracingtd1167:
Jon Great information ! One of my biggest problems has been not getting enough wheel speed with my car . Another issue is my motor placement . When Frank built my car in 2003 we decided to put the motor out 36 inches . I think most every car now is about 50 inches . My car is also a little heavier than most JR fuel cars . When I was spraying it with nitrous to run Top Dragster it weighed 1585 with me in it . I have started to take weight out of the car so far I am up to 133lbs and about 25 lbs of it is rotating weight! I think I am going to give the 10 inch rims a try . Thank's guy's for all the info! 

wideopen231:
Hp should be  little over 1000 hp might edge upto 1100 according to few programs I have run combo thru,no real world dyno yet.Programs call for mid 1100 range but I figure little less is more realistic.Power starts to come on around 6000 up to about 8500.Shifting around 7500 to get it to fall back just above converter and near max torque numbers.278/285@.050 and 820 lift.Mildly reworked BAE heads,CMC injection(Chris McBride Custom) All of this is calculated not actual dyno numbers,got to start somewhere.Not beiggest believer in computer numbers but these programs do get dang close to real dyno number if you give them proper info.I hope torque is more than sbc. I know the Jr. Fuel sbc stuff is high dollar and big power ,but 4.5" of crank had better make some torque or the engine builder will catch crap(yea thats me).Also have nitrous system thats good for 400 to 500 hp,not full time use on it .

 As for chassis I can stiffen this one with few bolts being tightened up. Slip is in uprights and one top rail in front.I have jacked it up 6 inches with no bolts and frontend still on  ground,extreme yes. Tighened it all up and front came up with very little arc in chassis. Plans are to start with stiff and get ironed out then play with slip some.

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