Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters

Throttle linkage on Mechanical Fuel Injection

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dreracecar:
That type of linkage should not be used, but instead remove the steel rod link and install either a heim or quick disconnect ball fitting to the upper hole. This is where it gets tricky, You can loop a push/pull cable to the top of the peddle and the throttle action will pull on the injector side or you can lead up to the peddle with the cable for a push action at the injector. From this point you must figure out what action will work best on your injection with regaurds to the best place to mount your cable to the injection with the least amount of interference and the direction of the throttle shaft rotation.
Heres a pic of a cable attachment point for a TR type injection.

tdietz:
thanks.  I'm going to have to get a little creative because I'll have to pull on the throttle linkage at the injector.  I may have to run my cable out around the engine and then run it back through.  thanks for the help guys.

I'm thinking I can hook up a small heim end at the bottom of the pedal and use that as a pull to open the throttle.  It will take a little bit of work developing a bracket to hold the cable up at the injection, but we'll come up with something.

Thanks for the help!

P.S.-anyone else running a dry sump system?  We bought a 410 c.i. sprintcar engine all aluminum for the car and just wanted to hear how people like the dry sump.

Thanks.

dreracecar:
The added weight and cost is why most people dont run them in the smaller classes, Any bennefit they bring is offset by the weight, plenty of good wet sump systems out there and you cant beat simple.

The question is -- why do feel you need one beside's comming with the engine?

tdietz:
Don't feel that I "need" it.  More then anything we like to be a little different and it is already on the engine so we couldn't see converting it back to a wet sump....

rooman:
Here is a photo of how I hooked the cable up to a Moon pedal on a recent job. The 3/8" tube acts as a toe strap and also provides the attachment point for a Morse style cable. The chassis attachment point for the cable is the tab hanging from the upper frame rail. The tube is attached to the top of the pedal via a couple of small tabs and 10-32 countersunk screws. Sorry that the angle of the picture does not give a better view but this is what I have on the shop computer. Varying the height of the cable attachment point relative to the hinge location on the pedal will change the "quickness" of the throttle action. If your motor came out of a sprint car it will most likely have a bell crank to make the throttle pull a fore and aft deal on the right side of the injector. If so you may have to re-orient it to make the arm pull towards the front s routing the cable from that end is usually the best way to avoid hard bends in the cable. On the subject of cables the best ones that I have found are made by Control Cables. (Actually the ones that the Indy Car guys use are better but at three times the $$$.)
      http://store.controlcables.com/servlet/StoreFront 



Roo

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