Oil tank

[MaggiFinn]

Thanks for clarifying D.

 I want to use the top tube, so I guess I can just put the chassis drain way up front somewhere, and not worry about closing it off.

 I have been covered in oil before from the breathers when blowing up, It is not so much trouble in the sand, but on the dragstrip I have to contain it better.
 I will vent from the valve covers, the video just goes in depth on what goes on when a piston lets go, and the necessities of sufficient tube diameters.
 Its a precaution more than anything, as I have a bad habit of  blowing stuff up...

 

[ss4]

Any reason not to run tubes off the front of the valve covers opposed to the top and I assume there is a shield/baffle tacked in as well.

[dreracecar]

Decelleration, Yank the chute and everything goes foward and "G" forces will move the oil around any baffle. Middle and on top is a neutral area

[ss4]

good point.  where does one by the fancy fitting? 

[GlennLever]

RCD has a nice set, GoodVibrationsRacing sells them under part number C-7150

All you really need is a set of tubes welled to the cover in the right location and the right diameter to except the flexible tubes running to your tank.

It is really nice though to have quick disconnect so that the covers can be removed easily.

There are others and different set ups.

[ss4]

okay thank you.

[ts39256]

I hope this question doesn`t sound foolish. If your running Donovan valve covers on a early Chrysler hemi and run burn down tubes in place of the front set of breathers, do you block off the rear set of breathers? I know the engine needs to breathe, is the puke tank alone enough?

[dreracecar]

Yes, you would block off the rear, Another thing that is starting to become prevelent is to run a breather line from the valley cover. Since the pushrod holes are so small and blocked by the pushrods and oil, the motor has a hard time breathing. Taking it from the valley really helps.

[ss4]

sorry for so many questions on a simple task.

From rules for a 8.0 dragster,  how does the clear tubing have to be secured.  are hose clamps acceptable?  I am specifically looking at the tank side.  plan was to use slip on with hose clamp and possibly the samething on the valve covers.  I really would like it to come of the front face instead of top but I certainly get the concerns. 

Also I am going to run water in the block (no pump) and was going to plumb a -8 line to the same oil tank and possibly put a 3ish psi check valve in line.   thoughts?

[dreracecar]

Hose clamps are fine, some class prefer that 2 to be used at each end.
3 psi is not enough try 17psi and plumb into headers, make sure to drill 1/8" drain holes in each tube at the lowest point.

[hotrod316]

 just be carefull when you weld something new or repairing the tubing it can fun
 the valve cover can go flying
but I been wrong wants I think

[ss4]

3 psi is not enough try 17psi and plumb into headers, make sure to drill 1/8" drain holes in each tube at the lowest point.

Are you saying to run the water to one of the zoo is tubes? 

[dreracecar]

Check valve in expantion tank, -4 stainless line into #1 header. Exhaust blows any water away from the rear tire

[ricardo1967]

I'm lost... got totally confused past the point where it's mentioned plumbing cooling (water) and engine breather to the same tank... please help!

[ss4]

just trying to streamline a little and not have 2 tanks.  If the both are waste then why not send to the same tank.  I am not  running a radiator so the amount of water ending up in the tank will be a mere spit.