Author Topic: Oil tank  (Read 30751 times)

Offline ss4

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Oil tank
« on: December 16, 2013, 11:31:23 AM »
I need to add a oil breather tank.  is there a recommended size or sizing based on engine?  currently running a sbc360 with stack Hilborn  but will be working toward a blown sbc434.  also what size feed/exit lines from the valve covers.
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dreracecar

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2013, 03:40:08 PM »
NHRA calls out for 1 gal minimum with 1" "ID" tubing from the covers to the tank

Offline ricardo1967

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2013, 06:52:39 PM »
Can you guys recommend a type/brand for the 1" ID tubing?

Mine are made of clear plastic (Vinyl?) that gets very rigid after a while. It's a real pain to deal with it.

Offline ss4

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2013, 07:12:46 AM »
Glad I asked thank you.  :D
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dreracecar

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2013, 08:56:04 AM »
Can you guys recommend a type/brand for the 1" ID tubing?

Mine are made of clear plastic (Vinyl?) that gets very rigid after a while. It's a real pain to deal with it.

Yes there is other things that one can use but tend to cost a lot more. Clear vinyl tube is cheap enough to change out every season for 10 years for what the other material cost plus clear gives you a visual indication of what is going on after the run.

Offline Frontenginedragsters

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2013, 09:11:31 AM »
Yes:
 I use the clear vinyl from home depot.
It is a pain but dreracecar is right on: Its cheap to change it and you can see whats happening.
Matt
Can you guys recommend a type/brand for the 1" ID tubing?

Mine are made of clear plastic (Vinyl?) that gets very rigid after a while. It's a real pain to deal with it.

Yes there is other things that one can use but tend to cost a lot more. Clear vinyl tube is cheap enough to change out every season for 10 years for what the other material cost plus clear gives you a visual indication of what is going on after the run.
Driving a Front Engine Dragster builds character and keeps you awake for a 1/4 mile at a time.
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Offline GlennLever

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2013, 02:48:48 PM »
I also use Home Depot hose (the reinforced swimming pool hose)





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Offline ricardo1967

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2013, 03:03:56 PM »
Thank you guys! I guess I'm staying with the clear vinyl tubing then. I'll replace it, hoping a new one is less rigid than the my old ones.

Any recommendation on suppliers for oil tank?

dreracecar

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #8 on: December 17, 2013, 04:31:38 PM »
Make one or have one made since every car is different. I bought mine at a swap-meet for $10, It was a puke tank for an old funny car that was too small for current use
 Unless you like the looks of it ,getting the reinforced hose has no advantages over the clear. Just be sure you find a supplier with the size you need and is at the beginning of the roll, if you get the end of the roll there is too much curl and the hose is flattened makes it quite difficult to work with.
« Last Edit: December 17, 2013, 04:35:33 PM by dreracecar »

Offline ricardo1967

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #9 on: December 17, 2013, 06:30:53 PM »
DRE, thank you for the info and picture. That's a nice looking digger.

My experience with vinyl tubing of smaller diameters is that the reinforced clear vinyl hose was actually more flexible than the standard clear vinyl hose. The reinforced one wasn't as transparent though.

dreracecar

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2013, 08:17:37 AM »
all I was implying was that dont get into a panic if you cant find the reinforced type hose.
 I prefer the clear as it tends to be more invisable then the reinforced which distracs by looking white

Offline hotrod316

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2013, 10:37:22 AM »
we use the black washer drain hose 8) about 6 bucks ;) makes both hoses

Offline LZ

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2013, 11:24:37 AM »
First off sorry to OP about going off topic.
I have been comparing data sheets on this for awhile ( because I ponder stuff way to much  ???) and was talking to a racer a few years ago at BG about this very thing. So thought I would share. One thing to consider though is the car NA or blown.
The PVC Hose that is used and mentioned has the following specs. Now I am sure there are different qualities and such but lets just say this.

PVC Tubing mentioned:
Chemical resistant but also meets FDA standards and CFR Title 21 parts 170-199. Non-toxic, crystal clear, ozone resistant. Service temperature +25°F to 150°F. Self extinguishing. Heavy wall is kink resistant. Burst pressure 4 times W.P. 72 Durometer.

Now compared to this at Mcmaster carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5223k25/=pvn3ry

    Ideal for water, hydraulic oil, oil, and chemicals, such as citric and acetic acids; also for air, smoke, dust, chips, and shavings
    Flexible
    Temperature Range: -20° to +300° F
    Internal Abrasion Resistance: Excellent
    Color: Blue or green

Made from PVC-coated foam, this hose withstands high temperatures. Commonly used as vacuum hose, it has a wire support and a smooth interior for unrestricted flow and easier cleaning. Hose also resists crushing and kinking. Can be used indoors and out.

Hose comes in your choice of blue or green. To Order: Please order hose in 5-ft. increments up to the full coil length of 50 ft. and specify color.

Antistatic fittings are gray vinyl with a steel support. Use them to connect hose to your equipment. They slide onto the hose and secure with set screws (included). They eliminate static buildup and ground the hose for antistatic flow.

Hose with antistatic fittings attached comes in your choice of hose color with gray fittings attached. To Order: Please specify hose color: blue or green
.

Also we used this once in a project at work seemed to have nice specs...
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/48569248?src=pla&008=-99&007=Search&pcrid=15557577904&006=15557577904&005=21882504424&004=4409695744&002=2167139&mkwid=sJXegN7a0|dc&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_sJXegN7a0_PLA__15557577904_c_S&026=-99&025=c

Inside Diameter (Inch)    1-1/2
Outside Diameter (Inch)    2
Material    ORS Synthetic Rubber Compound
Length Ft. (Feet)    300
Maximum PSI    1000.00
Fitting Size (Inch)    1-1/2
Minimum Temperature ( F)    0.000
Maximum Temperature ( F)    200.000

So just saying for your consideration.
Merry Christmas , best to all and hope you have a great year end with whatever  you celebrate
thanks
Luke
« Last Edit: December 19, 2013, 12:13:59 PM by GlennLever »
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Offline MaggiFinn

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2014, 04:26:06 AM »
I want to locate the puke tank on the back of the car.

Running the oil/steam impregnated air in the upper frame rails to the back end of the car, does the chassis need regular draining or does the g-force completely take care of that?

 I'd guess the frontend should be sealed off or should I use that also for added cc?

 Heres a video from Jim Murphy's garage on the subject:

 

dreracecar

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Re: Oil tank
« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2014, 08:31:16 AM »
Most all F/C type frames have drains located on the upper frame rail at the front of the chassie and is part of maintenence. Dragsters can have them either top or bottom rail and when they have them on the bottom builders put a plug inside the tube ahead of the vent and just raise the front of the car and let the oil drain out the back.Murphys system is for blown nitro so unless that is what you are building, it does not need to be that elaberate. In the 18 years I have been running my car I have never had to drain my breather tank.