Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
What did you do on your Front Engine Dragster TODAY?
ricardo1967:
Bill - motor & trans in place is a good accomplishment. Nice!
I like your setup. I have a couple questions if I may:
a) I really like your throttle pedal assembly. Do you happen to know where I can buy one?
b) Is the gauge on the right valve cover a vacuum gage?
Thanks
masracingtd1167:
Ricardo I made the pedal out of 3/8 chromemolly tubing . I purchaced a bender from Jerry Bickle race cars . I was only about 60 dollars and handy as could be . Yes that's a vac gauge but I have had 2 break already . Cheap Jegs gauges I think yiu need a liqid filled one .
ricardo1967:
Thanks for the info Bill. I may try that route. I like fabrication, but I'm not nearly as skilled as you are.
GlennLever:
So after 40 days and 40 nights of rain and cold weather it looks like we might get to go to the track tomorrow. The dragster has been wanting to quit running at the top end of the track (fuel running away from the pick up) so I have been wanting to install a primer system
I purchased a "Kit" that used Enderle's billet tank through AlkyDigger
To do what I want which is a little out of the box I had to purchase some additional stuff
So this install made me really nervous as it just seemed to fall together, normally you have to fight and fit things many times but this just seemed to go together. The return from the "K" valve was just the right height of the bottom of the belly pan
I removed the two plugs from the side of the primer tank and two -8 fittings screwed right in, I removed the straight 1/8 NPT to -4 fitting out of the bottom and installed a 1/8 NPT 90 -4 fitting on the bottom. On the -8 fitting I installed a -8 coupler.
So the tank is just the right height so that the bottom fitting just sits on the belly pan, the -8 return on the tank is just the right distance from the side of the chassis and bottom of the belly pan. The wiring from the old electric fuel pump was in just the right location to connect the primmer pump. With it plumbed into the return line from the "K" valve the tank will always be full once started for the first time on a race day. That just makes one less thing that needs to be done in the pit.
I replaced the old fuel pump toggle switch with the rubber capped momentary on starter button ordered from Summit, and now at a push of a button I get a nice squirt of alcohol into the rear most port of the hat on top of the blower. I had used the rear ports in the blower for my rear two injectors. We will try it out tomorrow.
This picture is from Empire today, I do not think I will get to try it out tomorrow.
Dolmetsch:
I worked late afternoon on the tunnel ram for the blue rail (AKA The Senior Dragster)
I made the bottom retainer for the headers today and welded it to the pipe stubs. The pipe studs will be hand filed to be just proud when the manifold is tight. I also drilled all the holes for the bottom plate. With this manifold the headers are captive which complicated the build but not impossible. Now to clean it up. then decide paint , powder coat or natural ???
The carbs are 500 cfm Holleys although one must remember two barrel Holley are rated at 3 instead of 1.5 depression so in reality are around 350 to 375 cfm so total cfm will be somewhere like a 750cfm 4bbl.
Runners are tuned for 6000RPM and are tapered . Exhaust stubs are made from EMT which was readily available and inexpensive. The bends are very well made. Next is to mount it on an engine and finish the headers so they hug the block and will fit the dragster (and maybe the gassser too. )A lot of fiddling around on a job like this but often it is well worth the effort.
Don
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