Technical > Roo Man's Room

Ney guy here.

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wideopen231:
 I inserted the sleeve before bending the lower bends at motor. I pushed it to where I needed it and rose bud welded it in place.It would have been easier to cut ant put in place. On rear where roll bar connects to shoulder hoop I don't think I have to have its since my lower rails turn up and are directly under roll cage bars? Hope I read it correctly that this was ok.Oh yea 6 point cage.

dreracecar:
Couple of points here
  With 2.4 only the shoulder hoop needs to be 1 1/2 x .058  2" foward of the rear end uprite and foward of that my step down to 1 3/8 towards the motor plate. The insearction of the 1 3/8 fully into the 1 1/2  to the shoulder hoop bend covers the inner support tube requirment.
  The splice between the foward seat uprite and front hoop is for single dia shoulder hoops in that area if its a continous bend. Years prior, one could add another uprite to the foward roll bar hoop down to the shoulder hoop, but this was for older chassies where splicing it at that point would create too much work.
 Those that can get the hoops bent in a single piece, have the bends on the same plane, and the front motor plate timed and angled exactly--my hats off to you. I find that by making it 4 piece I can that the rear hoop on my flat and are able to twist the foward sections to center the rear hoop and line up the front half. If one is of on angle or rotation in dealing with long wheelbase chassies, a little bit here makes a huge difference over there

janjon:
Dre sez:

"Those that can get the hoops bent in a single piece, have the bends on the same plane, and the front motor plate timed and angled exactly--my hats off to you. I find that by making it 4 piece I can that the rear hoop on my flat and are able to twist the foward sections to center the rear hoop and line up the front half. If one is of on angle or rotation in dealing with long wheelbase chassies, a little bit here makes a huge difference over there

 Valuable insight there, thanks. I will bear that in mind If and as I build somethink.
John

rooman:
Bruce is correct (as usual).  I have access to a high dollar mandrel bender (as well as my in shop unit) so I bend shoulder hoops and top rails in batches. I make the lateral leg of the shoulder hoop long enough that I can make the wide cars that some of my larger customers need for comfort. For the regular one I just shorten the leg. Likewise with the forward portion of the top rail (motor to rear end/cage front hoop). By having some extra length I can trim it to suit where the motor is located. As Bruce notes, being able to rotate that bend at the motor upright sure makes it easier to get the front half of the car aligned. The same applies if you use an arched cross member to mount the steering box. Using two bends and splicing them in the middle allows you to vary the height  relative to the frame while still having the bends land on the upper rails. If you want it higher just leave the tail of the bend longer and splice to fit. If it works for Don Long it works for me.

Roo

janjon:
Goodie, so what works for Don and Bruce and Kevin, will work for me...
It's awesome that chassis builders like yourselves are willing to share hows and whys, techniques and philosophies.

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