Technical > Roo Man's Room

Wheelie bar, second-guessing myself a bit here..

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GlennLever:

--- Quote from: rooman on June 04, 2013, 07:27:41 AM ---I usually use 1.125 x .058 or 1.25 for the upper bars and 1.125 for the major part of the lower with 1" for the slider to allow the bar to be pinned up higher for towing around the pits. I use a weld clevis at the chassis attachment points and at the bottom I use the McKinney wheel bracket which also has a welded mount for the bar. When I build the bar I run a string down the centerline of the car to locate the wheel. The clevis that I use at the top mount is made for a 1" tube so I weld it to a short stub and then slip that into the 1.25. That allows me to line the wheel up on the string by sliding the main tube on the stub and once it is aligned then I weld the slip joint. On some cars which hit the bar hard I add a cross member about half way between the chassis and the wheel to keep the top tubes from bowing out under load.
My desktop 'puter at the shop has had a modem failure and the laptop that I am using does not have all of my photos loaded on to it so I am unable to post photos at this time. Glenn may have some of the installation on his car.

Found this one.
Roo

--- End quote ---

I'll take some pictures next time out at the track, looks like rain this weekend.

BK:
 All the tubes on mine are .875 od. x .058 chrome moly. The wheel is out about 5' from the mounts. The uppers do bow up some after 10 or 15 runs. Theres a slip tube in the bottom for towing and I have slip tubes in the uppers about a foot long to adjust height. I also have heim joints. There are all right hand but its easy to pull the pin and spin the whole tube. I found with mine if the bar is centered or it doesn't hit the bar solid its headed to the right. I need to offset the wheel about 1.5 in. the the left to get it to go straight. I allways thought mine were a little on the light side. But you 1' .094 bars sound a lot beefier than mine.

janjon:
Thanks, All, for the replies and input. 'Tis particularly interesting about offsetting to the left... mine has right and left hand threads on the upper bars, so I would be able to move it side to side as well as up/down as necessary. One other question, any opinions about using aluminum rod ends in the upper bars? They will be loaded in compression only. The lower bar has a steel rod end at the front attachment, and double cross-drilled thru-bolted at the rear.

BK:
 I dont think I would be comfortable with aluminum ends. I'm barely comfortable with moly ends in mine. Even though they are in compression I would be concerned where the the load is at an angle on the upper mounting point at the chassis.

wideopen231:
Im all for saving weight but some times its just better to go little heavier and be safe. Call Frank Parks if theres a safe lite weight piece he has it. Warning he is out spoken and may tell you your nuts.

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