bracket racing a FED

[lake_harley]

Too bad we don't have a "Like" button for your post above, Frenchtown Flyer 

Lynn

[225digger]

Thanks for the replies.

225DIGGER....do you happen to know the dimensions of the Civic radiators? More often than not, parts on Ebay don't have a great deal of info like dimensions, and I can understand that wouldn't be important if I were looking for a radiator for a Civic. $100 with a fan would be sweet!

Lynn

so the one i have is 14.5 wide and roughly 18" long  i wish i had a part number for you but i bought this thing like 15 yrs ago for my project.  yeah that long ago im that guy who has alot of projects that seem to never get finished.

[wideopen231]

I don't normally drive a FED but some guys think that running against my six cylinder altered would be an easy time. So there is that similarity.
Let 'em.
I don't care who I race - anybody can beat anybody. Hero-to-Zero in nuttin' flat.
Just get your car consistent if you want to bracket race. Even if you have to sacrifice some e.t. to do it. If you want to set a personal best e.t. every time you suit up don't expect to excel at bracket racing. Consistency wins. I want to race a competitor who would refuse to lift because he might be on a personal best [breakout?] pass.

Having said that, there ARE certain types of cars I WANT to race. For example, on a hot sunny day give me the guy in a black driving suit with a flat black helmet driving a doorslammer painted black. Hopefully he's strapped in there with a crew member opening and closing the door like a Geisha Girl waving a fan in an effort to keep air circulated to keep him from baking. And if he's a really fast car even the better. I feel that guy sub-consciously can't wait to get out of that car and I will be happy to oblige him. There are other examples too.

Win or lose be cordial to everybody. I try to. But on the starting line if I'm lined up next to my Mother I want to trounce her!

CONSISTENCY IS MAIN THING i HAVE TRIED TO FOCUS AL PARTS OF CAR ON. 4.19 GEAR,WITH 1.69 LOW,EASY at the line As loong as enough not to shake it apart. Computer is mainly to monitor events that would effect consistency,like temps,actual shifts. MSD grid tune to track better, New ss fuel lines because I have had rubber lins flake inside and stop a nozzle. Simpile fuel sustem,which kills me. Air shift off time or rpm. 330 lbs on front wheels ,was told 300 minimum to be driveable hopefully keep wheels in beams, Extra heavy on left front same reason. Cwemic bearings less drag has to help and the .02 quicker is just gravy.LOL  Adding run around cooling for trans. Few fuel valves for controlling engine temps. Quick oil chage system to lower temp with fresh oild. Tires are up in the air and will only know what it likes as I go. electric chute dump in case of rough topend. Ahve 4 wheeler for towing if need because of temps. Just found that alky fuel temp  as with nitro will change with temp as far as jetting.Only .001 or .002.Since main jets do not break dwon in .001 increments I did amke part of by pass where I can adjust if I find that change,IF being key word. Two solenoids that will help get temp on starting line were I need it.
I am sure there are cpl dozen things I have over looked,that don't mean they can not be corrected. All suggestions taken under consideration also.

[lake_harley]

So....I've been looking at and giving more thought to small radiators. The size of a Honda Civic radiator wouldn't be a deal breaker but I saw another post, maybe on this forum(?), about using a Honda Goldwing motorcycle radiator. The approximate size of the Goldwing radiator is about 11" X 14" with a thickness of about 2 1/2" and has 1" inlet and outlet fittings. Thoughts on using one of them with an electric pump (or maybe a regular aluminum pump?) and an electric fan with a mild 305 Chevy carbureted on gas? Using an electric pump would have the benefit of running it along with a fan on the radiator to cool down between rounds. FWIW, I plan to run only 1/8 Mi. tracks.

I'm getting ready to build mounts for radiator, battery, fuel and "puke" tanks, so would like to position everything just once.
Lynn

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Put in a radiator and an electric pump. An inexpensive one is a Teel. It is better to build it in initially than to realize later you need one and have to rearrange everything on the car to make it fit. You can always remove either the rad or the pump or both if you feel it is unneeded. I predict you'll need it at some point - hot days, oil downs just in front of you, round robbining, etc.
I use a Sirocco type and and Teel pump.

https://teelpumpcatalog.com/

EDIT: It appears Grainger does no longer carry the Teel 12V bilge pump. Jabsco or Marco are alternate brands.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184409770558?epid=24019157637&hash=item2aefadca3e:g:edAAAOSwduNiCvb6

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301733368029?epid=1222226781&hash=item4640b5d0dd:g:cQkAAOSwcwRevRPq

[225digger]

imo, keep it simple, a mild sbc on gas, just use the belt driven water pump with a 160 thermostat.

this way water is always moving through the radiator,  put an electric fan on it and turn on and off as needed.

that honda radiator might work only way to find out is to give it a try, i only ended up with the civic radiator as yrs ago on the forums that was recommended to me to use.

[BK]

So....I've been looking at and giving more thought to small radiators. The size of a Honda Civic radiator wouldn't be a deal breaker but I saw another post, maybe on this forum(?), about using a Honda Goldwing motorcycle radiator. The approximate size of the Goldwing radiator is about 11" X 14" with a thickness of about 2 1/2" and has 1" inlet and outlet fittings. Thoughts on using one of them with an electric pump (or maybe a regular aluminum pump?) and an electric fan with a mild 305 Chevy carbureted on gas? Using an electric pump would have the benefit of running it along with a fan on the radiator to cool down between rounds. FWIW, I plan to run only 1/8 Mi. tracks.

I'm getting ready to build mounts for radiator, battery, fuel and "puke" tanks, so would like to position everything just once.
Lynn
You definitely want to be able to run the fan and pump when the engine is off. It won't matter if the pump is engine mounted or remote either will do the job. If you go with engine mounted I would look into and electric one to avoid having a belt the could be a problem.

[lake_harley]

BK...I'm trackin'.... A belt driven pump wouldn't give me the between runs cooling that I would get with the electric pump and fan. I'll just have to make sure I have a generator/battery charger that puts out enough amperage to run everything and "top off" the battery.

Speaking of battery, I suppose the only way to go would be with an AGM battery for safety sake.

Lynn

[Supercat]

16 volt XS Power for battery needs

[wideopen231]

Thanks. Already gone to 16v battery because cpl 12's I had were not doing the job. I installed a quick connect at switch and  convertdr charger to same deal to make quick safe charging w/o having to fight clamps. Charger cost about same as battery and neither is cheap.

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Speaking of charging batteries, I would also recommend using an alternator. They absorb little power. One horsepower = 746 watts. At 16 volts that's 46 amps worth of charging, and a fully charged battery will not draw 46 amps worth of power. Even at 50% efficiency that 46 amp draw only requires 2 HP. Trivial.
Remember - consistency over maximum performance?

[wideopen231]

Noway to get alternator in the mix,if I wa nted one. With smog pump and fuel pum being belt drive there is just no roon left. I have cranked car about dozen times in a day and never had issue. No water pump,only fan is trans cooler,ignition is msd mag and fuel as said belt-driven. Only juice draw would be small fan for trans,computer,delay box and taillight if on.

I do have a new starter on order which should be better since lot newer and probably more efficient. I also have booster pak on four wheeler if cranking became issue.

Not saying alternator is bad idea just next to impossible on this deal.

[BK]

BK...I'm trackin'.... A belt driven pump wouldn't give me the between runs cooling that I would get with the electric pump and fan. I'll just have to make sure I have a generator/battery charger that puts out enough amperage to run everything and "top off" the battery.

Speaking of battery, I suppose the only way to go would be with an AGM battery for safety sake.

Lynn
Moroso has an electric motor with a belt to drive a stock style pump. They work well but its just more stuff that can go wrong.
From the sounds of what you're going to do engine wise you could get away with a standard lead acid battery. Mine worked OK until my 60 foots went under 1.20. An AGM would always be a better choice though.

[lake_harley]

Thanks. The pump I'm most considering is a "remote" unit from Allstar Performance and it pumps a LOT of water! Price is around $150 (I'm hooked up with a race parts warehouse) and just bought a 1200 Goldwing radiator on Ebay for $35 including shipping to give it a try.

Lynn 

[wideopen231]

Funny thing about all the reason  why you couldn't bracket race  a fed 'when I started project. Two funniest. They don't work if so someone would be doing it and winning the big money races. Best of all they are too inconsistent. That old guy in Kansas told me he had one customer call him complaining about new car he built that made 5 runs and last one was .001 off first 4.This was with 526 hemi with 14-71 high helix. Of coarse the guy was joke complaining. Not sure what you call consistent but if it take more than that, you might be asking little too much.LOL