Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
bracket racing a FED
lake_harley:
Too bad we don't have a "Like" button for your post above, Frenchtown Flyer ;D
Lynn
225digger:
--- Quote from: lake_harley on February 12, 2022, 11:17:21 AM ---Thanks for the replies.
225DIGGER....do you happen to know the dimensions of the Civic radiators? More often than not, parts on Ebay don't have a great deal of info like dimensions, and I can understand that wouldn't be important if I were looking for a radiator for a Civic. $100 with a fan would be sweet!
Lynn
--- End quote ---
so the one i have is 14.5 wide and roughly 18" long i wish i had a part number for you but i bought this thing like 15 yrs ago for my project. yeah that long ago im that guy who has alot of projects that seem to never get finished.
wideopen231:
--- Quote from: THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER on February 13, 2022, 07:35:07 AM ---I don't normally drive a FED but some guys think that running against my six cylinder altered would be an easy time. So there is that similarity.
Let 'em.
I don't care who I race - anybody can beat anybody. Hero-to-Zero in nuttin' flat.
Just get your car consistent if you want to bracket race. Even if you have to sacrifice some e.t. to do it. If you want to set a personal best e.t. every time you suit up don't expect to excel at bracket racing. Consistency wins. I want to race a competitor who would refuse to lift because he might be on a personal best [breakout?] pass.
Having said that, there ARE certain types of cars I WANT to race. For example, on a hot sunny day give me the guy in a black driving suit with a flat black helmet driving a doorslammer painted black. Hopefully he's strapped in there with a crew member opening and closing the door like a Geisha Girl waving a fan in an effort to keep air circulated to keep him from baking. And if he's a really fast car even the better. I feel that guy sub-consciously can't wait to get out of that car and I will be happy to oblige him. There are other examples too.
Win or lose be cordial to everybody. I try to. But on the starting line if I'm lined up next to my Mother I want to trounce her!
--- End quote ---
CONSISTENCY IS MAIN THING i HAVE TRIED TO FOCUS AL PARTS OF CAR ON. 4.19 GEAR,WITH 1.69 LOW,EASY at the line As loong as enough not to shake it apart. Computer is mainly to monitor events that would effect consistency,like temps,actual shifts. MSD grid tune to track better, New ss fuel lines because I have had rubber lins flake inside and stop a nozzle. Simpile fuel sustem,which kills me. Air shift off time or rpm. 330 lbs on front wheels ,was told 300 minimum to be driveable hopefully keep wheels in beams, Extra heavy on left front same reason. Cwemic bearings less drag has to help and the .02 quicker is just gravy.LOL Adding run around cooling for trans. Few fuel valves for controlling engine temps. Quick oil chage system to lower temp with fresh oild. Tires are up in the air and will only know what it likes as I go. electric chute dump in case of rough topend. Ahve 4 wheeler for towing if need because of temps. Just found that alky fuel temp as with nitro will change with temp as far as jetting.Only .001 or .002.Since main jets do not break dwon in .001 increments I did amke part of by pass where I can adjust if I find that change,IF being key word. Two solenoids that will help get temp on starting line were I need it.
I am sure there are cpl dozen things I have over looked,that don't mean they can not be corrected. All suggestions taken under consideration also.
lake_harley:
So....I've been looking at and giving more thought to small radiators. The size of a Honda Civic radiator wouldn't be a deal breaker but I saw another post, maybe on this forum(?), about using a Honda Goldwing motorcycle radiator. The approximate size of the Goldwing radiator is about 11" X 14" with a thickness of about 2 1/2" and has 1" inlet and outlet fittings. Thoughts on using one of them with an electric pump (or maybe a regular aluminum pump?) and an electric fan with a mild 305 Chevy carbureted on gas? Using an electric pump would have the benefit of running it along with a fan on the radiator to cool down between rounds. FWIW, I plan to run only 1/8 Mi. tracks.
I'm getting ready to build mounts for radiator, battery, fuel and "puke" tanks, so would like to position everything just once.
Lynn
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER:
Put in a radiator and an electric pump. An inexpensive one is a Teel. It is better to build it in initially than to realize later you need one and have to rearrange everything on the car to make it fit. You can always remove either the rad or the pump or both if you feel it is unneeded. I predict you'll need it at some point - hot days, oil downs just in front of you, round robbining, etc.
I use a Sirocco type and and Teel pump.
https://teelpumpcatalog.com/
EDIT: It appears Grainger does no longer carry the Teel 12V bilge pump. Jabsco or Marco are alternate brands.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184409770558?epid=24019157637&hash=item2aefadca3e:g:edAAAOSwduNiCvb6
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301733368029?epid=1222226781&hash=item4640b5d0dd:g:cQkAAOSwcwRevRPq
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