Good Powerglide Build Book?

[Don Munyon]

First of all I would like to apologize for the terrible picture quality that I posted, I hope that these are better. I’m going to blame it on poor lighting in the trailer.
 I’m adding some new pictures and a couple of sketches.
 The steel plate is shaped like an upside down letter U which is attached to the frame and the 8 3/4 rear end carrier is for anti-rotation. The coupling cover is wrapped 3/4 around and welded to it and the shifter arm assembly are attached to that. With the reverse lockout on the shift lever and neutral safety switch it should meet most rule requirements.

[lake_harley]

I did a first read of the Munroe Powerglide book and have been watching a lot of the Powerglide videos Hughes Performance has on YouTube. Lots of great information. I have disassembled and cleaned up the parts of one of my core Powerglides and have begun to inspect and determine what will be needed.

Given my low HP engine (250-ish HP) I'm beginning to wonder just how much will need to be modified. There are a lot of things that are talked about in the book and on the videos that refer to this or that part to "be good to 1,000 HP, 1,500 HP", and so on, but considering the Powerglide came behind even a few 375 HP Chevys I don't know that I really need to do much other than a good rebuild.

It's been a long time since I drove my Mom's '64 Chevy that had a powerglide, but even shifting manually I seem to recall it would stay in Low as long as you didn't shift to Drive, so I don't know that I'd need to even do a manual valve body modification. Seems bumping up line pressure would be a good idea to help make the shift more definite and hold the band tighter against foot braking, but it sounds like raising the pressure more than necessary for the HP application is, well....just unnecessary. I do think a steel high gear clutch hub (~4" diameter one inside the high drum) would be appropriate. I don't know if I'd really be challenging the stock input shaft all that much considering Chevy used them in a lot of cars with higher HP and torque than my mild 283 will make.

I'm even questioning the necessity for a higher stall converter. I'm bracket racing and unless a different converter would somehow be more consistent I don't see the benefit or need.

I could spend a lot of money for transmission parts to build a super-duper transmission, but I try to be careful with what I do spend. Maybe my frugality is why I do have some money.  I'd rather keep it for gas to get to the track and pit passes.

I'd love to hear comments about my logic and ask that if I am WAY off base that someone would point out what is wrong with my thinking. I tried several times yesterday to call someone at Hughes Performance to ask the same questions but wasn't able to reach anyone.

Lynn

[JEFF/21C]

 you don't need much  just the right clutch and band cleareance, and type F trans fluid the torque convertor really depends on the cam and a higher stall speed will make it easier to drive in the 70's my street car/towcar a 65 chevelle 327/300 I used a vega torque raised the stall speed to 2300/2500 ran 13.0s and 106mph  with just the modulator disconnected to raise the pressure. stock valve body changed to a B&M manual no change. just check band adjustments every couple week-ends

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Depending on your carburetion and camshaft you will need a stall speed that will get your engine in its optimum operating range. With too low of stall speed it will take forever to get it "up on the pipe". I would consider a 4000 stall at the minimum .

[lake_harley]

Thanks gentlemen! I appreciate the input.

As far as it needing more stall speed to "get on the pipe" the cam is really mild, for now anyway, with power range listed as 1500-4000, and the carb, also for now at least, is a Quadrajet. Not exactly trick of the week stuff, but the engine was originally built to go into another hot rod. I think even a stock converter should stall at or above 1500?

Overall, at least it doesn't sound like I'm off my rocker with the transmission, considering the engine.

Lynn

[lake_harley]

JEFF/21C.....I sent a PM to you.

Lynn

[e-drag]

The Carl Munroe book is a great book. It goes from stock rebuild to race modifications. Great tool

THIS^^^^  TSR is the company name.  I have a Frameworks Shifter for sale on Ebay,  PM me for details.