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Author Topic: FED Build  (Read 13270 times)

Offline Larry Gocha

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Re: FED Build
« Reply #45 on: January 24, 2022, 08:43:15 AM »
Thats looking great congrats.
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Offline Rat

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  • Your Best Time: 8.585 @ 154.55
  • Your Engine: Stack Injected All Iron 392 Chrysler Hemi
  • Your Track: Willowbank Raceway, Queensland, Australia
  • Your Vehicle: Colthup Bros FED
  • General Location: Australia - East Coast
Re: FED Build
« Reply #46 on: January 25, 2022, 04:04:49 AM »
When the FED I drive was purchased it had a Master kill switch on the back, but it is on the negative side with the battery forward of the engine . We installed a constant flow solenoid right next to the battery with an aircraft style on/off with the driver. Master Kill key on gives negative, switch closes the solenoid which then powers up the car, tach light comes on to tell me it's powered up. Hit the master kill
 or drivers switch and no power right at the battery.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2022, 06:02:50 PM by Rat »
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Offline THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Re: FED Build
« Reply #47 on: January 25, 2022, 11:12:49 AM »
I do something similar. It once saved a LOT of people from being injured when I was semi-conscious in a run-away race car.
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Offline lake_harley

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  • Your Best Time: 7.06 @99.58 - 1/8 mi.
  • Your Engine: Carbureted, gas mild 305 Chevy
  • Your Track: Jeffers Motorsports Park - Sikeston, MO
  • Your Vehicle: 145" FED
  • General Location: SE Missouri
Re: FED Build
« Reply #48 on: January 25, 2022, 04:20:04 PM »
Rat....just to make sure I understand correctly, you have a solenoid capable of handling all of the power to the car and it is powered on by a "master kill" switch in the cockpit? If I'm reading right, that master kill switch is wired in series with a kill switch at the back of the car (or somewhere for emergency kill)? Opening either switch (off position) kills all power at the battery cable. I'm curious if there's a reason to put that solenoid on the negative rather than the positive connection? FWIW, my battery will also be forward of the engine.

If I got that all pretty much right, I like the idea that big battery cables wouldn't have to be run to the back of the car and then back forward. That would seem to negate some of the benefit of the master kill switch(s).

In my case, I'll have a starter and wonder if the cable going to it would also be included in the switched (via solenoid) circuit, or would the main lug on the starter still be powered?

Sorry if I seem dense, I just want to clarify what I think I'm reading.

Lynn
« Last Edit: January 25, 2022, 04:57:25 PM by lake_harley »
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Offline Supercat

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Re: FED Build
« Reply #49 on: January 25, 2022, 05:44:12 PM »
I use a "Flaming River" master switch in the cockpit on the left dash, none behind me. Works great. I have a 2 gauge double shielded positive cable to that switch. My switch employs a mag kill switch also. I can take a shot of it if needed.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2022, 04:25:25 AM by Supercat »
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Offline Rat

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  • Your Best Time: 8.585 @ 154.55
  • Your Engine: Stack Injected All Iron 392 Chrysler Hemi
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  • Your Vehicle: Colthup Bros FED
  • General Location: Australia - East Coast
Re: FED Build
« Reply #50 on: January 25, 2022, 05:50:33 PM »
Hi Lynn, Hopefully I have been able to attach the wiring diagram.
The Master Kill Switch is on the negative battery cable and mounted at the back of the car next to the tail light. The drivers kill switch is in the drivers switch panel and supplies the negative for the solenoid and is grounded independently of the Main Kill Switch. Both must be closed for any power to to go past the solenoid. When both are closed the positive battery cable to the starter is live, all other fused small positive wires draw form the starter.
The only live wire to the back of the car is for the tail light and works independently of the drivers kill so you can't accidently turn if off.
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Offline Rat

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  • Your Best Time: 8.585 @ 154.55
  • Your Engine: Stack Injected All Iron 392 Chrysler Hemi
  • Your Track: Willowbank Raceway, Queensland, Australia
  • Your Vehicle: Colthup Bros FED
  • General Location: Australia - East Coast
Re: FED Build
« Reply #51 on: January 25, 2022, 06:05:54 PM »
Hi Lynn, I added the wiring diagram to my previous post for you. Tried replying and was getting an error message. Anyways hope the diagram answers your questions. Cheers
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Offline Finnish Fireball

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Re: FED Build
« Reply #52 on: January 26, 2022, 12:10:13 AM »
NHRA rulebook requires Master Kill switch on the positive cable.
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I'm fast. I can make five mistakes while others think.

Offline lake_harley

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  • Your Best Time: 7.06 @99.58 - 1/8 mi.
  • Your Engine: Carbureted, gas mild 305 Chevy
  • Your Track: Jeffers Motorsports Park - Sikeston, MO
  • Your Vehicle: 145" FED
  • General Location: SE Missouri
Re: FED Build
« Reply #53 on: February 03, 2022, 03:32:51 PM »
Does anyone have photos of examples of steering arms that bolt to stock Anglia spindles to hook up the drag link? I have a couple ideas of how/what to build, but I'm open to other ideas.

Thanks

Lynn
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Offline lake_harley

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  • Your Best Time: 7.06 @99.58 - 1/8 mi.
  • Your Engine: Carbureted, gas mild 305 Chevy
  • Your Track: Jeffers Motorsports Park - Sikeston, MO
  • Your Vehicle: 145" FED
  • General Location: SE Missouri
Re: FED Build
« Reply #54 on: February 03, 2022, 03:34:23 PM »
BTW....if your computer is working the same as mine on this forum you may have to hit reply to even see my latest post, and to reply.

Lynn
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Offline lake_harley

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  • Your Best Time: 7.06 @99.58 - 1/8 mi.
  • Your Engine: Carbureted, gas mild 305 Chevy
  • Your Track: Jeffers Motorsports Park - Sikeston, MO
  • Your Vehicle: 145" FED
  • General Location: SE Missouri
Re: FED Build
« Reply #55 on: February 19, 2022, 02:47:18 PM »
Started welding up my chassis today. Got about 25% done in about 2 3/4 hours. Did 1/4 of the diameter, starting at the center of a joint, welding outward to the radius of the coped joint. I don't know if that makes sense, but I got a tip on how to do the welding and that method seemed to make sense. I did "mirror" welds, alternating sides to even out or cancel warping of the chassis. When I had my fabrication business going we regularly used a similar method. It seems to have worked out again since I can still freely rotate the alignment bar going through the mock-up block into the 3rd member. The next session planned will be another ~25%, and at that point I'll probably pull the engine block since the chassis should be fairly "locked" at that point. Eventually I'll roll the chassis side-to-side and even upside-down to finish welding to avoid welding standing on my head. I do much better welds when my position is more natural.

Lynn
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Offline lake_harley

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  • Your Best Time: 7.06 @99.58 - 1/8 mi.
  • Your Engine: Carbureted, gas mild 305 Chevy
  • Your Track: Jeffers Motorsports Park - Sikeston, MO
  • Your Vehicle: 145" FED
  • General Location: SE Missouri
Re: FED Build
« Reply #56 on: February 22, 2022, 09:45:48 AM »
Got another ~25% of the welding done on the chassis yesterday. Alignment bar through the engine and into the rearend still rotates freely so apparently the chassis isn't being warped during welding. ;D Just short of 6 hours TIG welding at this point. Seems I walked around the chassis about 100 times to do the welding evenly from side to side!

Lynn
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