Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER:
Greg, Your current engine as it sits is capable of being raced and driven up the return road back to your pit spot - even on gasoline. If you do not want to rely on a tow car to drag you around the track you can install a lay-down radiator and forego a tow car. A small electric pump such as a Teel brand bilge pump is all you will need for circulation, or you can use the stock pump if you desire. And an electic fan on the rad.
With careful tuning your car will do low nines / high eights naturally aspirated. Good luck
Just another Greg in Frenchtown.
afaulk:
I understand that you have the skills and want to build the car but you can actually buy a very nice rolling chassis for less than the cost of the components required to build it. Ask me how I know. Best of luck and welcome, Allan
225digger:
there are a few places that offer basic blue prints, mark williams, neil and parks. i have the prints from S&W race cars. and they are very detailed, multi sheet, plenty of measurements on the prints to help you build the chassis kit they sell, but if you have a bender you can just do your own chassis. buy there prints and the SFI book to what ET you want to be in and have fun, its not hard, read the sfi multiple times.......... if you have the time and knowledge, building them is half the fun.
tcoupekyle:
There’s a lot of good info in this page. I turn to this group allot and I’m really glad they’re here
Paul New:
I don’t know anyone offering prints for a 140” car I know Tuttle use to offer prints for a 185” car you may have to get some drawings and modify them to suit your desire. No matter what ET you plan on running I would purchase the SFI 2.6A specs good for 7.50 and slower. If you ever had desire to go quicker than that 2.4C is 6.0 to 7.49
http://sfifoundation.com/drag-racing-chassis/
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