Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
Potential FED Build
crider:
My car is 178" wb, and I have a full length glide coupled straight into a 9". Irun a BBC and by the Et's I'm guessing right around 600hp. It has taken me quite a few runs to get the car dialed in to a point where it will run straight and be consistent, so I would say you should be fine at the power level you are wanting. Just set the wheelie bar low at first and see and it goes
lake_harley:
In my calculations on axle centerline to back of engine dimension of 39-40", I added 3" of gap for the coupler length between the transmission output and roughly the front of the pinion threads. Is that about correct for a short coupler?
Lynn
Rat:
Hi Lynn, Happy New Year and Welcome to the site.
We are using an 8 3/4 Chrysler, full length glide and coupler, the engine plate is 44" front the diff center line.
As you are finding out there are so many different combinations of FED. As other have stated build to suit your situation (shed/trailer etc) but safe and resaleable. With your horsepower target you can get away with a shorter/lighter chassis but be ready for some wheels up action. Enjoy the journey and the ride. 8)
AF150:
Just a few thoughts...
If you put the engine out about 44" (back of block to rear axle centerline) with a full length powerglide,you can use a Mark Williams collapsible coupler. Makes transmission or third member removal possible without moving the engine. You will need an alignment bar for the rear end you pick.
Fab a fixture to hold housing square on your table with axle center about 15" above ground level.Then slide the block to the desired location and set the engine angle. Basically, you build the rest of the car around this arrangement.
I wouldn't recommend building less than 150" and 175" would be better. Most cars in the mid 60s were that long and it will handle better with any power plant.
MB
lake_harley:
--- Quote from: AF150 on January 10, 2020, 09:20:52 AM ---Fab a fixture to hold housing square on your table with axle center about 15" above ground level.Then slide the block to the desired location and set the engine angle. Basically, you build the rest of the car around this arrangement.
--- End quote ---
Thanks. I've found, read and learned from photos of several FED builds and plan to do exactly as you describe with an alignment bar through the engine and into the third member. I plan to build a jig rigid enough to move around in my shop without it twisting, bending and sagging. I've seen jigs with just a single beam and arms coming off to locate items and tubes, but I'm leaning toward a double square tube jig just slightly narrower than my chassis, with crossmembers tack welded and/or clamped into place to locate and support things.
Also.....RAT I appreciate your reply and input. I'll take all of the info and suggestions I can. I realize some of the opinions might conflict, but I'll try to make good decisions based on everyone's input.
Lynn
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