Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
Potential FED Build
lake_harley:
--- Quote from: denverflatheader on December 24, 2019, 04:22:36 PM ---Here’s an excellent online racing calculator which helps decision making. For tire diameter answer, you input proposed rear gear ratio, anticipated engine rpm and mph at stripe. This calculator is user friendly and lightning fast with answers.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
I had a 1970s dragster with an 8-3/4 Mopar (489) rear with Mark Williams axles and spool and had no issues with it. It would work fine for your project.
--- End quote ---
That calculator website is interesting. It might keep me entertained for days. :D I just hope it doesn't get my hopes up too much since my "theoretical" FED calculates as being quicker than I might hope.
Lynn
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER:
LOL slowing it down is a lot easier than speeding it up. And cheaper
I built my RPU with 2.47:1 Bonneville gears in the rear, with a 4.56 waiting in the wings. It never got changed to the 456s. Its fast enough. And with the 1-2 shift spaced way out I can dial that puppy within a gnatsass by altering my shift RPM.
Paul New:
I agree with the 4” ground clearance! My first dragster I built had the 3” minimum it was difficult. Buy the SFI specs 2.6A is good to 7.50 and you can build with mild steel tubing 2.4C is 6.0-7.49. Of you decide you want to run a torsion front axle I have a brand new Mark Williams torsion bar and a wide front axle 44” king pin C-C if you may be interested
https://sfifoundation.com/drag-racing-chassis/
jeff/21:
what ever you do make sure you can fit in the car with all your safety equipment on This year I had a chance to do something that was on my bucket list that was to drive a sprint car took the car out to run laps behind the shop street clothes just a helmet and arm restraints everything felt good, next day we went to the race I got dressed Sfi 15 suit could barely fit in the car couldn't fit the steering wheel on didn't have time to re position steering or lower the seat!
All this to say You have to be comfortable!
dreracecar:
Most people will tell you to use the Ford 9"--- except me.
Chrysler 8 3/4 is a good choice for what YOU plan to do, They offer more room for your legs, good gear sets are available, less exspensive than a Ford build, Not that it really matters but a Ford eats up a touch more HP because the pinion is lower. Don't go with a diff, spools are plenty cheap these days for them and available in the popular spline counts. With todays tracks and tires they will handle 800HP easily
Chrome Moly is so much eaiser to work with them DOM mild steel and the cost difference is a couple bucks, Places like Aircraft Spruce sells Moly at a reasonable price and will/can sell only the amount needed without cutting charges (as in ordering 2 -6' pieces instead of a 12"). Proper planning and the material can be shipped in short runs instead of freight shipping a 20' length.
Front torsion will add another $400+ to the build and not really needed because current rear tires do most of the work and a solid front end is fine, A piece of 1 3/4" X 120wall and the split front axle will slide in or you can split the 1 3/4 and clamp the full axle in place
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