Moving Engine Forward

[BK]

 I've decided I'm going to move the motor forward in my FED. Going to a long glide will move it out about 10 inches. Do I need to add an upright at the motor plate? I see cars, usually Altereds that have done this and the motor is out there with out an upright.

[rooman]

It is always a good idea to have an upright under the rear motor plate. If you are moving it out 10" I would also add a diagonal to the bay between the new and old uprights.Some sort of support (upright or diagonal) in the vicinity of the new front motor mount location would also be good.

Roo

[rooman]

Steve Morgan just brought up a valid point. If your top rail steps down at the original motor location to a size below that required in the spec that your car is certified for you will have to rework the frame rails as well to be able to get the car to certify. Depending on the certification level that rail needs to be either 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" to a point at least 2" in front of the upright. The lower rail needs to be  1 1/4" minimum at the same point. The new upright will have to be a minimum of 1 1/4" x .049 no matter what the spec level.

Roo

[BK]

Thanks for the reply. Excellent points that bring up more questions. Would sleeving the proper size tubing from the existing weld forward be acceptable? There is a diagonal in the bay where the motor plate will end up. Would having the diagonal through the upright achive the same result as having it in the bay behind?

[rooman]

Can you post some photos of the chassis layout (side view). It would help to see what you are working with.

Roo

[BK]

This is the picture I have on computer. Could take something else if it would help.
Looking to move motor about half way to next upright.
The starter will clear the diagonal if it stays.
Should there be an upright near the front of the motor also?

[rooman]

Having uprights at the motor mount locations or close to them in the case of the front mount is a good idea as that is where the torque load is transferred to the chassis and where the weight of the motor lands when you shut off or hit a bump. Of course all drag strips are ultra smooth and bumps are not a problem--right?

Roo

[ricardo1967]

What's the wheelbase? Looks like to be in the ballpark of my 173" FED. Are you fighting motivated (and unintentional) wheelstands? Instead of moving the motor, have you considered lengthening the chassis?

[masracingtd1167]

BK How far out is the motor and what tire do you have on it ?

[BK]

Having uprights at the motor mount locations or close to them in the case of the front mount is a good idea as that is where the torque load is transferred to the chassis and where the weight of the motor lands when you shut off or hit a bump. Of course all drag strips are ultra smooth and bumps are not a problem--right?

Roo

Rooman thank you for your input. It was a big help. Steve good catch on the upper frame rail I would have missed that. I know what I need to do if I decide to go through with it. Of course a lot more than I was thinking. Every track I,ve run has been as smooth as glass and you never bounce in the shut down.
 BK

[BK]

 The car is 175" wb. The motor is out 31" from axle c/l. Wheelie bar is are 72" from axel c/l. I thought about going longer but cockpitt is pretty cramped. I was thinking moving engine out would solve the most issues with the least work. Not so sure about the least work part now. Mabey I should do both.

[masracingtd1167]

31 inches is really close . Mine is 36 and I have been able to work with it . If I had it to do over again I would put the motor out about 40 inches. You have a good looking car . I used to run a set of Crower injectors just like those.

[BK]

31 inches is really close . Mine is 36 and I have been able to work with it . If I had it to do over again I would put the motor out about 40 inches. You have a good looking car . I used to run a set of Crower injectors just like those.

Thanks for the compliment. If mine was out 36" I,m pretty sure I could live with it. If I move it its going out to 41". Difference between long and short glide.

[wideopen231]

If you talk with Frank Parks he would tell you 45" out is not enough.Last time i talked with him he was building new car 52 out. I spent cpl nights reworking stuff but could only get 49 out. Im thinking the extra torque I should have will make up for differance in wheel speed. Carring battery infront of front axle centerline and fuel tank behind it, should help with weight. I have provisions for moving battery to middle or under driver if need to. Air bottle and nitrous bottle in front of middle of car plus at least one fire bottle whould help work weight balance out.

[BK]

If you talk with Frank Parks he would tell you 45" out is not enough.Last time i talked with him he was building new car 52 out. I spent cpl nights reworking stuff but could only get 49 out. Im thinking the extra torque I should have will make up for differance in wheel speed. Carring battery infront of front axle centerline and fuel tank behind it, should help with weight. I have provisions for moving battery to middle or under driver if need to. Air bottle and nitrous bottle in front of middle of car plus at least one fire bottle whould help work weight balance out.

I,m sure Frank is right at least when it comes to his car or somthing like it.  I think in a shorter car like mine it might look a little odd with motor out that far. And I,m pretty sure at 41 out and moving some things around like you mentioned my car would do what I want it to do. I'm not sure I want to make the changes after all. Looking at an Altered. May change directions.