Technical > Matt Shaff's Engine Shop

What's a typical 392 Hemi build look like to run 8.60 in a FED or Altered?

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ChevJerico:

--- Quote from: glofria on February 18, 2019, 10:48:59 AM ---I think  the first question to be asked is can you find any components like heads, blocks and cranks that are usable?

--- End quote ---

There is an A1 block local standard bore, that has minimum rust, and a set of 555 heads, and a standard crank.  Two different guys.  One has a block with 4 bolt main conversion with low miles.  He wants 2K for that.  I'm just looking right now.

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER:
I have a friend - Racin' Jacin Barnes - of Wycliffe Ohio, who decided to build himself his first real race car. He decided on a front engine digger with a blown hemi. Of course, a logical "first race car". Not. Anyhow, the car turned out beautifully. He did a great job on it, all himself - chassis, body, engine etc. But he decided to hedge his bets and instead of bolting on the blower and injectors he just mounted a set of Hilborns to the 392 8.0:1 long block. He runs low nines with it on pump gas and has had such a ball running it he has no immediate plans to bolt up the blower setup sitting on his workbench.

glofria:
Next question would be are you after coolness or functionality and more cost effective?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10215584061893239&set=gm.705300886471361&type=3&theater&ifg=1
 

JrFuel Hayden:
I agree, to build a "Cool car " will no doubt cost more, lots of SBC parts out there.
We run NHRA Heritage JrFuel on the west coast and have won Championship with SBC and early all iron Hemi. Rules are heads and block must be iron.
We have run 7.0's to 7.20's at 185-189 mph with our Gene Adams orginally built 354 block [ lighter/stronger than 392] and 331 heads at 409 ci engine, rule limit was 410 ci, not its 430ci.
We broke a block in 2012, and it was tuff finding a good sonic tested machineable block. After maching we filled the block with epoxy , at Gene's suggestion, but it ran about 2 tenths slower, we and Gene could not figure it out because we only chaged the block, no other combo change. We discovered on the the second race that we had scuffed pistons, not in the skirt area bur in the wrist pin area ???
Our machine shop ran into a filled block problem before. Well it turned out the block was squzing the cyclinders, because when we raced it heated up and caused the epoxy to expand . So we put it in an oven until it stopped changing the bore size, then bored it again to get new pistons to fit.
BTW this is an all iron motor with stack injectors, zoomies, and a powerglide burning pure alky, in a 1480 lb FED with driver. We shift around 9200 and we have shifed at 9800, no breakage but I don't recommend that high. We run 31x12x15 Goodyears on 11 or 12" rims and 4.56 rear gears and a 1.69 first gear, with 7" converter,  stalling at 7900 to 8400 rpm.
So now that I've given you all my secret combo, Good luck with your project. If you want to see us run the Hemi and hang-out with us, we are racing the 2019 March Meet next month, in Bakersfield Ca.
 Cheers , Jon at Hayden Wheels 800-624-3803
I thought I would let you know what you might be up for. 

ChevJerico:

--- Quote from: THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER on February 18, 2019, 12:00:01 PM ---I have a friend - Racin' Jacin Barnes - of Wycliffe Ohio, who decided to build himself his first real race car. He decided on a front engine digger with a blown hemi. Of course, a logical "first race car". Not. Anyhow, the car turned out beautifully. He did a great job on it, all himself - chassis, body, engine etc. But he decided to hedge his bets and instead of bolting on the blower and injectors he just mounted a set of Hilborns to the 392 8.0:1 long block. He runs low nines with it on pump gas and has had such a ball running it he has no immediate plans to bolt up the blower setup sitting on his workbench.

--- End quote ---

Must be one cool guy if he's from Ohio ;)

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