cheap performance gains

[wideopen231]

Yea I know cheap and performance ultimate oxymoron.  Figure will make fun and maybe educational thread. Always the crew chief and always wanting more.I am always looking for anything that will pick performance up no matter how small.

Right now I am having two sets of gears machined to reduce weight. 75 bucks each  and removing 4 lbs roughly,cheap weight(100 per lb norm) and rotating weight to boot
 Have set of ceramic bearing for front wheels.Once I get car to track and determine if buying lighter wheels for front is good or waste I will install them.Why buy 1100 bucks worth of wheels and tires if adding weight already to the front end? I Know Jon needs parts for car.LOL

 New cam for this combo would be worth bunch since cam is big 296@.050 is bit much for simple injected motor.Again if not to strong on bottom now then spend 550 bucks for about 40 HP almost all of which will be bottom end.
New 4.40 pistons will free up intake valve flow,add 35 cubes and allow 14:1 with .030 and 12.5 with .080 or .090 gasket swap incase want big load of nitro. Again after testing maybe at 1400 pistons rings and boring for 70 hp and tq its not cheap but not bad either.
 New trans case and bell will drop 18 lbs but at cost of 1250 bucks.Still cheaper than lot of ways to drop weight and only worth about .018 using .100 per 100 lbs.

Cheapest  Driver need to loose back down to about 210 from 220 he is back upto. thats.01 for nothing. LMAO

Before telling me get to track first.I know that but still like having plans to work towards.Also know bracket fast don't count.When you have always had fast top or near top cars it does.Lots of fast consistent cars out there might as well add ad fed or two to the list.

Ideas?

[masracingtd1167]

Chris I would do the ring gear for sure and just adding 35 cubes should give you a good hp increase !an aluminum spool yes ! That ceramic stuff is super expensive but I am sure it is faster ! Strange and Mark Williams both make ball bearing pinion supports and I think that would help ! Have you looked into those Dura Blue coatings they use on ball bearings ? That might be a cheaper way to go !I am not going to pick on you about getting your car out ! I will leave that up to your buddy Ed !!!

[wideopen231]

ED who? using word my buddy with that name is justification for shooting. Life around drr has been so nice w/o that name and here you go and bring it up over here. Watch it or he might show up here since running out of places to----,well be ed.

[masracingtd1167]

I think he even got banned from Yellow Bullet !

[wideopen231]

Such a nice site we should end conversation on that subject.hard for me to be nice too long. Think we have already extended my record.LOL

[Curly1]

Ed is like Cancer. The world could do with out it.

[Calkins]

Follow these directions, and you won't have the money to pay attention to the faster cars...

https://bangshift.com/bangshift1320/deceptive-nostalgia-we-dissect-a-modern-bnostalgia-dragster-and-see-how-advanced-it-really-is/

[wideopen231]

yeap readi article while back.One very nice piece.Also way out of my league money wise. I had less in my TA/D and that was when I was making good money.

[masracingtd1167]

Chris I wonder if you could get away with aluminum bolts in the valve body ?

[wideopen231]

You can and also in pan.Problem is heat aluminum and fluid.titanium bolts are not as bad of price as you would think. Lots of place you can use aluminum bolts. Before anyone questions aluminum bolts remember 8 of them hold a 14-71 that take 300 hp to spin and makes 50 lbs boost.

 My adapter for hat to intake has aluminum bolts,trans pan,valve body will have titanium later on. Any non stress area either has aluminum or will and aluminum lock nuts. WOuld love to have full titanium bolts,but love to be rich instead of so dang good looking. Now a open shopping trips thru Neil and Parks web site would be nice too. He has some awesome new stuff on it.

Wondering if simply polishing teeth on gear set would reduce drag.Not as good as REM polish would be. I did a old gear set other nite for fun. Man it did smooth up surface and would have to reduce drag some. Also found out ceramic bearings are lot lighter as well as freeing up power due to less drag.They also require less oil because less heat which means you can run lower weight oils.I have ceramics for front end and only waiting till I find out if front will needed add weight.If not then lighter wheels,if so money better some where else.
 Reducing air drag is something I want to try later on also. I know never worked great,but use of carbon fiber has to help the loss from extra weight. Be nice to have access to wind tunnel for testing or honestly call it playing.LOL

 Quite a few things on hold till can get some runs in and see what I can cut or change that will make best bang(hopefully not parts) for the buck. Still fun  discuss and get ideas.

Guess the crew chief thing never dies.always wanting to find something extra and try something new. For me thats what racing is all about,anybody can copy other and run same as others.

[JrFuel Hayden]

Wideopen, as to your question " why buy $1100 wheels and tires" well I tell my customers that one pound rotating weight is = to 9-10 lbs of static weight [ what you will put on your front end so you can streer the car] SOOOO if you got by the theory that if you take 100 lbs off your car you will pick-up a tenth, and you take at least 10 lbs of rotating weight off your wheels = 100 lns. I can build wheels and tires that can be as light as 7.75 lbs each with rib tires. How much do your current wheel/tires weigh ?
Cheers, Jon

[wideopen231]

OK Jon. My currant setup weighs roughly 15 lbs. per wheel. According to your numbers I will shave 7.5 lbs per wheel for total of 15. Then if I did not have to add weight back I should pickup .15 thats on table with heavier wheels.

If you are real sure I will make you a deal.  After I get car tuned out I will get a set of wheels from you.If they shave amount we agree it should I am good with that,if not you refund 75% of cost? Now we will have to agree how much it will shave since 95% of my runs will be 1/8 mile and the 100 equals .1 is based off 1/4 mile. I will verify with et slips and as for conditions being same and it being ABA test to best of my ablity you will have to take my word as southern,ok gentleman is questionable.LOL

[JrFuel Hayden]

So your wheels are not wire spoke wheels ? What kind of wheels and tires are you using ? You are looking for a tenth @ 1/4 , and .05 @ 1/8 ? If you want 75% back if you don't get those numbers, then I would want a say in your combo.
Cheers, Jon

[wideopen231]

Hey you expert ,no proble with a say in combo. I have weld aluma stars with front runners. Yes heavy,but at 274 bucks with spindles it was hard to say no.LOL

Again deal would be on hold till I get car tuned and runnign consistent number to make fair test. The GY 2585 I can see making good size difference.less rotating on engine driven part. I know your little older and wiser and lot more knowledgeable on FED tuning. Just finding big difference in rotating of non engine driven piece little hard to buy.

[denverflatheader]

wideopen231 - two thoughts to share for your “fun and educational” thread.  (1)  To provide “guarantee” increases lowest possible sell price.  Would you pay extra for a guarantee and in what amount, or would you pay lesser cost and no guarantee.  It’s simple cost of conducting business successfully (e.g. if you want 75% return for not meeting objective, would you pay 30% more for the item initially?).  Some people will, most shoppers would not.

(2)  To achieve even close to 97% verification, a controlled environment isolating the part to test is recommended.  Even within controlled environment there could be issue you cannot fully control.  Using your tuned race vehicle as the “controlled environment” includes other factors which diminish (i.e. weaken) the conclusion.  Alan