lookin for help, eh

[L79_Acadian]

Hello everyone, its been a long while, but I actually worked on the car again. Now for the questions, first off, the engine is a 392 Hemi, in a street driven car, with a automatic. I installed a Hilborn 4 port, with a bunch of cobbled parts. The pump is a Enderle 80A .1 that's remote mounted, I have 8 #14A nozzles,The barrel valve is from a flying toilet system with a #54 spool, a Kinsler jet holder with a 100 pill and a light spring (0.014"), a secondary poppet with a heavier spring (.042',and a .187" and a .042 shim) and a high speed poppet with a heavy spring ( .042" spring and 4 of  .042" shims).
 Now, what's the opinions on what I need to basically drive the car at shows and the odd trip around the block. I would like to have a idea as to what spring and shim combos I would need in the poppets and the main pill and springs to make this work.
 Thanks guys for the much appreciated help,
   Roger

[Curly1]

Sorry but I do not think you are going to be able to make it work well on the street. Mechanical injection is stupid fat just to be able to take gas and the throttle response is very quick.
As for tuning your combination go as lean as possible on barrel valve and I would use O2 sensors to get it as lean as you can get away with simply to be able to have enough fuel to get you any where at all. Thing is when you make it lean enough for that you are going to have problems when air gets better or if you give it too much throttle. I just do not see it working well enough for even minimal street driving.

[Spud Miller]

 Yup, I agree with Curly1. The main pill is really only relevant for wide-open throttle use. Is this gas or methanol? The #14 nozzles tell me probably (hopefully) methanol...

If you really want to just idle it off a trailer a block away and idle it to the cruise-in, then I'd just throw a .090 main pill in it, adjust the idle to make good temperature on the headers (350-450F) and good throttle response. I'd set the leakdown to 27% or so to start with and adjust from there for exhaust temperature.

Having an O2 sensor as Curly1 mentioned is a HUGE help if you can. You can get an O2 setup now pretty danged cheap.

Anything partial throttle, off-idle (like driving down the road) is going to be wrong and probably lean. There isn't really anything that can be done about that short of trial and error. At least an O2 display would allow you to try different adjustments to find something "sort of happy" for cruising. Boiling it over (lean) or ruining your oil and suffering severe cylinder wear (rich) are what you will fight.

You could get it converted it to EFI pretty reasonably. Here's a link to our "Old School" setup (no fuel rails). We can also convert YOUR casting to EFI for a bunch less money than this complete new system:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/efi/products/old-school-hemi-enderle-stack-fast-efi-system-complete

 Spud

[wideopen231]

It can work for street use. I have set two up for street rods and Know Ralph Gorr set one up for trip from Cali. to WI on caddy runny 526 blown injected engine.Then knowing Ralph low speed driving was not part of deal.
 IMO buying one of the hats with hidden pieces that looks like MFI but is actual EFI is best way to go. Cost probably not ton of difference but lot more fun on street and works great on track too.