Injected FED's launch rpm

[Curly1]

Most tracks TnT night is a joke and waste of time and money.

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

TnT - that's been my experience too. If you want to try a high HP car be the first there, make two passes as back-to-back as possible, and put it on the trailer. (I'm headed out the door to Milan right now to do just that for their Nostalgia weekend Fri, Sat, and Sunday. Running N/Comp index class .400 pro tree.)

[glofria]

Really? That's too bad because the Auto Club Famoso Raceway always gives us an national event caliber track for TNT.

Of course the Auto Club Dragway at Fontana is closer and a easier drive for us, but no thanks.   

[wideopen231]

Well hopefully I will be hitting test and tune real soon. I figure to run car little rich,pull little timing and put on a show. I ain't John Force,but I am a showman.LOL Figure if can get down that I should be golden come race weekends. Plus If I can time it to hit on Big Dog night I should have no problem.Around here that's the big night at local track. Most cars are 4.20 to 4.70 door cars,so tracks good.

[BK]

We race on a .4 Pro tree.  i too have a SLE.  When we are both in, my foot goes to the wood, blades crack, to around 5000rpm, and the SLE opens with the brake release.

Almost exactly what I want on mine to do ,except want  it to work on full tree. Don't want it sitting there at 5000 dropping cylinder every other with BV wideopen and holding for 1 to 1.1 seconds.At 5000(2500 engine) that is about 3.5 to 4 gpm .  1 second doesn't sound like much to most,but look at a data download and how much crap happens in 1 second.

With my delay box you could sit there at dead idle with foot to the floor and set the SLE to pull throttle open at any time before the brake releases.
 Or set any RPM you wanted when your foot goes to the floor.

[Curly1]

There are a lot of variables here, tire size, weight, balance, stall convertor, horsepower and on and on. Nobody can tell you where you need to launch because of the variables and your car is different than all others out there. Set it say 4600 and run it then go from there.

[wideopen231]

We race on a .4 Pro tree.  i too have a SLE.  When we are both in, my foot goes to the wood, blades crack, to around 5000rpm, and the SLE opens with the brake release.

Almost exactly what I want on mine to do ,except want  it to work on full tree. Don't want it sitting there at 5000 dropping cylinder every other with BV wideopen and holding for 1 to 1.1 seconds.At 5000(2500 engine) that is about 3.5 to 4 gpm .  1 second doesn't sound like much to most,but look at a data download and how much crap happens in 1 second.

With my delay box you could sit there at dead idle with foot to the floor and set the SLE to pull throttle open at any time before the brake releases.
 Or set any RPM you wanted when your foot goes to the floor.

ea that was idea.Little did I know that K&R delay box is onl one with set in stone timer on sle.Noy knocking the box just a feature I wish it did not have. seems only out is to sell bos for loss and spend 100 more than this one cost for Biondo.So basically another 200 after sselling this one. With top of my very long list of need items being a trailer,its not happening for while so till then I can either live with timer or just yank sle off and drive more old school and do one of those things driver is suppose to dao.Hit the throttle at right time. In my case I am thinking about time between 2nd and 3rd bulb on full tree.  I am told will be less consistent that way.WHY? Beats me I will have already hit or missed tree before then and I know I am old but thats how I ran my first car/Way back in the late 80's and heck it ran same number almopst every run. Driver might be issue.LMAO