Drag Racing Discussions > Front Engine Dragsters
calming the car down on the starting line
dusterdave173:
--- Quote from: fuel749 on July 18, 2018, 07:43:33 AM ---I'm thinking I built that with the motor 42" out but I originally built it for someone else so I could be wrong. I only build them with the motor further back by customer request. If I built the bar it's probably between 48"-60" with enough give to not unload or shock the chassis unless things are going bad fast.
Jim, when you say the wheelie bar was low how low was it. On our small block altered (4.56, 33x10.5W, 1.76 low, probably 450 horse) I run the wheel almost touching the ground to unload the tires and generate wheel speed. On occasion the owner/driver gets a hair across his ass for some big wheelie pictures so I put the bar up and it wacks the bar hard enough to unload the tires and send him for a ride.
I agree that wheel a couple inches off the ground with driver in the car is all my car wants--higher and it is a wild ride
38 lbs on the nose in a 200 in car with maybe 425 HP Get wheelie bar where you can just get your shoe tip under it
Leave from idle on footbrake and just see Any RPM and it is going to be wild for sure with that much engine
--- End quote ---
wideopen231:
Can not say how well it works yet, I set my car up with motor 50" out,fuel tank and battery on nose.I also went with 1.60 low and 4.10 rear gear trying t make it soft at hit. I am wondering about tire size with that much motor. Since can not read op and most reply at same time I am thinking you said 10.5 tire? why not at least 12" and maybe taller to ease up on hit. Anything that can pull timing and ramp it back in? Besides old TA/FC IHRA racer should be use to not going straight. LOL
wideopen231:
Maybe before adjusting timing it was spinning some and made car more driveable. Go back to square one.iF that works you might look at tire pressure if adjusting timing back down.Just like with your old TA/FC a little spin can be good if its controlled.
crider:
To answer some of the questions. It's a glide, 1.76 gear. Leaving off the brake at 4500. 6200 converter. I've tried the rear bar from as low as 1.5" off the ground up to about 5". up. With the bar at it's lowest, it was quick yank up on the front end then instant spin and hard left turn. With the bars up about 4" it's still came up hard, but I was able to ride for 60ft or so before things unloaded and more bad spin. It's was running 5.40's before the timing change. Car should be easily capable of 5.00's or a little better. The one pass I was able to pedal it and get down the track under power it went 5.35 so it would appear that the timing change has helped the hp, if I can just figure out the right combo on the car. I like a car that takes a little skill to drive, but I also like to be able to make it all the way down the track too
wideopen231:
what where last years runs like? Any other changes other than timing? With 604"BBC I think you have low expectations. Maybe way off but I would think you should get well below 5.0's once you get it tuned out. I have had situation where tuning soft just screwed everything and had opposite where I backed it down and it hauled butt. If only change is timing I wold backup and punt. Then I am also rooking at tuning a FED so my 2 cent maybe over valued. If that don't work and you don't have a retard capable system then I would go after fuel. Richen it and lean it shortly into run. Electric solenoid would be best and use rpm switch or timer if have delay box.
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